porting head have a question

[hofficergrover]

ok i am having my dad port my b3 head and i just want to know if any one can tell me what i should use for a template for how much to remove? or can i use the intake and exhaust gaskets for the template? may dad said i had to get one so he knows how much he can remove.
thank you

[Levitan]

I'm guessing but I would think you would want to put some kind of "paint" on the manifold that would transfer the outline onto the head and remove the "bare" metal in the ports.

[TominMO]

I'm guessing but I would think you would want to put some kind of "paint" on the manifold that would transfer the outline onto the head and remove the "bare" metal in the ports.

+1. Put the exhaust and intake manifold gaskets on the head; mark any metal from the intake and exhaust ports that is not covered by the gaskets with a permanent marker or paint. Grind off the marked metal.

If you put the gaskets on the intake manifold and exhaust manifold, you might find metal to grind off on the manifolds as well.

[hofficergrover]

ok thanks i will do that Thank you guys for the help

[NovaSS]

"gasket matching" does very little in reguards to performance gains in head porting. Most results come from the bowl area behind the valve, the angle and width of the seats, unshroading the valves in the cumbustion chamber and producing a proper quench area.

You would be better off just cleaning up casting flash from mold parting lines, getting a good multible angle valve job and blending the valve seats into the casting. remove as little metal as possible.

[drddan]

"gasket matching" does very little in reguards to performance gains in head porting. Most results come from the bowl area behind the valve, the angle and width of the seats, unshroading the valves in the cumbustion chamber and producing a proper quench area.

You would be better off just cleaning up casting flash from mold parting lines, getting a good multible angle valve job and blending the valve seats into the casting. remove as little metal as possible.

Yep, what he said.

[FestYboy]

also while you're in there, remove the "step" in the exhaust runner and give it an actual short turn radius. more power through better breathing.

[hofficergrover]

ok i dont know what any of that means but i will have my dad read it he will know whats going on haha thank you guys any thing else?

[NovaSS]

It boils down " dont get to carried away" when it comes to head work on a street engine "little" is better then "more".

[FestYboy]

if you take out an exhaust valve and look inside, you'll see a hard 90* edge opposite the valve guide. remove that "step" and your engine will thank you.

[blkfordsedan]

Honestly, I don't think the ports on on B3 head (or any B-series for that matter) really need any work for a street driver, especially if the rest of the engine is stock. I have seen a lot of good heads ruined by a die grinder in pursuit of better flow. Port volume and taper all effect flow velocity, which is critical for low RPM torque. Compression, cam timing, intake runner volume and length, combustion chamber design, exhaust primary tube length, etc., all must work together. The Japanese do a much better job with head flow than the Americans did back in the '60s. The fact that the B3 puts out 62HP from 1.3L with 2 (small) valves per cylinder is a testament to quality engine design.

I'm not trying to discourage you, but without flow bench data and research, my suggestion would be to leave the ports alone. Especially if the rest of the engine is stock. If you want more power and excellent mileage and driveability, do a B6 or B8ME swap.

If you still want to play around with it, I would have a good performance valve job done. You can grind and remove (smooth) any casting flash from the valve pockets and ports (if it has any) but I wouldn't try to enlarge or reshape anything. Be careful not to nick the valve seat with your grinder. Gasket matching the port openings in both the head and the intake will not gain much, but won't hurt anything. I don't know what the "step" that FestYboy mentioned is, but if it is as restrictive as he says, removing/reshaping it should improve flow. These few steps will not take much time. Trying to do much more will not gain you anything on a stock motor.

[FestYboy]

ported head with coated valves. will have the head re-flowed over the winter (need to figure why cyl 2 is 30 psi lower than the rest (185-155-186-185))

[blkfordsedan]

^^^^^ SWEEEEET!

Is that a B3 or B6? Stock size valves? What did you do to the rest of the engine? Do you have before and after flow numbers?

C'mon! you can't flash pictures of an awesome ported head and not give details!!!

[FestYboy]

muahahahaha! is awesome, is it not?

it's a first gen B6 head, stock valves (new), the block was also new (B6) with blueprinted bottom end, coated pistons. no flow #s unfortunately, but i can tell you with complete certinty that i NEED a bigger cam, the head LIKES a bigger cam (unfortunately, i hosed 6 of 8 lobes on the FMS comp cam ) next step is custom cam, smooth the guides and run the aspire rollers (again) but with behive springs instead of the duals that are in it now.

[hofficergrover]

that is a sweet head!!
my motor is stock block bore and what not, but i am going to be running a comp cam and its going to be carbed and i have already started i have bought alot of the parts the block is being hot tanked. i am thinking of having it bored but not sure just yet i may i may not i am calling the place tomarrow to see how much it is first then i will decide, and i thank you very much festyboy and Brian for all your info and input on the subject i have taked with my dad alot on this befor i had decided and he has done alot of motor rebuilds in his day and porting and all the works so i trust he can handel the job and show me how to do it. he has done alot of this work so i think i will ok and i really want to just do it and see what happens if it don't then owell.