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I have a b3 engine, slightly modded running lean

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  • #16
    I used a variable resistor at first and found the best spot and after, fitted a fixed resistor. I want to make it trigger at wot but it can't be done because you can't connect 2 resistors parallel. It will give basically the same readings or lower. So manual switch it is. Using it when needed only.
    :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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    • #17
      Originally posted by lancerevo View Post
      I used a variable resistor at first and found the best spot and after, fitted a fixed resistor. I want to make it trigger at wot but it can't be done because you can't connect 2 resistors parallel. It will give basically the same readings or lower. So manual switch it is. Using it when needed only.
      That's still cool. Would be great to have it hooked up to a dash switch though for sure. Reminds me of the Ferrari's with their SPORT and RACE settings hahaha!
      1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Aaronbrook37 View Post
        That's still cool. Would be great to have it hooked up to a dash switch though for sure. Reminds me of the Ferrari's with their SPORT and RACE settings hahaha!
        Yes, except that it costs 200 times more. lol.
        :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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        • #19
          Have you checked if your fuel pump is working properly at high rpm? Maybe is dropping fuel pressure at said rpm(4000-6000) when you need it the most?
          There is replacement for displacement! Less weight and BOOST!!!

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          • #20
            Originally posted by lancerevo View Post
            if I buy a set of injectors rated at 240cc. will it run very rich all the time with the stock b3 ecu?
            http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-PROBE-MAZ...item19c01090e3
            You have to remember that the injectors are only one ingrediant of the total recipe.
            The ecu has to have the maps in it's inventory to work with. With a b3 ecu, it's "high" and "low" flowing "range" for the injectors are limited.
            In fact the range is kinda like this: cold economy (open loop), and warmed up economy lol.

            That's why when guy's say "get it tuned", they don't mean new plugs and wires, they mean maps made to match what you've done as far as "add ons" and/or maps for the kind of driving you want.
            You can get "flip chips" on some ecu's and sct tuners that hold more than a couple of batches of maps. These give you options so you don't have to commit one way or the other eg: street (to dd it w/87 octane) or race gas options when you want to rock. Some of these guy's will actually run a small 5 gal. race tank in the trunk with high octane in it and a valve.
            Now that's your thinking mans system...ax me how I know ;-)
            Last edited by iceracerdude; 11-01-2010, 08:57 PM.
            97 Aspire w/K03 turbocharged b6 SOHC
            CoolingMist Varicool II Meth injection
            Phantom gripped and cryo'ed 5 speed

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            • #21
              In the next few days, I'm going to fit a micro switch to the accelerator peddle at wot to make it engage the increased resistance to add fuel.
              :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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              • #22
                Originally posted by lancerevo View Post
                In the next few days, I'm going to fit a micro switch to the accelerator peddle at wot to make it engage the increased resistance to add fuel.
                Good idea! I was trying to think up a way to hook it up to the throttle cable, but this way makes much more sense. Should be a very cool little setup.
                1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by lancerevo View Post
                  In the next few days, I'm going to fit a micro switch to the accelerator peddle at wot to make it engage the increased resistance to add fuel.
                  in the auto cars they had a down shift switch on the pedal.... maybe just grab a pedal out of an auto car lol...


                  Mike, AKA the sasquatch
                  1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...

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                  • #24
                    the switch mus be a on and on switch not on and off. it will not work if the switch is on and off.
                    :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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                    • #25
                      maybe you could run it to a small relay.... when the switch turns on it could turn on the relay...


                      Mike, AKA the sasquatch
                      1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by sasquatch View Post
                        maybe you could run it to a small relay.... when the switch turns on it could turn on the relay...
                        It won't work with a relay.
                        :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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                        • #27
                          I made it work with a micro switch mounted to the throttle body. When the throttle pedal is at wot, the switch will come on from factory ect to the 12k resistor.
                          :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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                          • #28
                            you could make that work with a 5 pin relay...


                            Mike, AKA the sasquatch
                            1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by sasquatch View Post
                              you could make that work with a 5 pin relay...
                              Draw me a diagram how to make it work.
                              :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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                              • #30
                                I think I know hot to make it work with a 5 pin relay not with a 4 pin. Seems like the switch I made, only more complicated.
                                Last edited by lancerevo; 11-04-2010, 02:37 PM.
                                :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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