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Holley-weber escort carb on 88 1.3 5spd

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  • #16
    There is no aircleaner on it yet. When I blip the carb linkage quickly under the hood it stumbles and spits and pops back out the carb but there is no flame to be seen. When I smoothly push the linkage toward open it revs on up nicely.

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    • #17
      Does the carb have accelerator jets? They could be dirty. Jabbing the throttle makes a temporary lean condition, which can cause stumbling, etc.

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      • #18
        Also, without the air cleaner, it's already running lean.

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        • #19
          Thanks for the suggestions, I will check into all of them.
          I have an old 75 hp 3 cyl carbed Johnson outboard that won't run right unless the cover over the carbs is in place. I am in the process of making an aircleaner for this carb, maybe that will help with this issue.

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          • #20
            With the engine not running look down past the choke plate. You should see a solid stream of gasoline that lasts about 1 -2 seconds long when you snap the throttle wide open and hold it there. If that checks out okay start the engine and with it idling apply and remove vacuum to the vacuum advance on the "disty". If that checks okay ( no symptoms ) plug vac hose back into carb and check for vacuum at idle. There should be very little to none. Blip the throttle and full vacuum should be present. Ported vacuum sources are best for snappy throttle response.
            Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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            • #21
              how do the plugs look after letting the car sit at idle for 10 mins?

              I think that your getting to much gas when you stab it.
              I dont know your carb at all. But i know performance race carbs.

              Is the idle higher than normal?

              Hold on.
              was this car fuel injected before you put the carb on?
              carbed cars need 5-6# for fuel pressure.
              EFI cars run much higher.
              If htis is the case i help you straighten it out.
              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8SilV257aM

              1999 SVT Lightning #1212
              1993 tube chassis Festiva 351w (shooting for the 9s)
              1980 Maples jet boat 455 olds
              1991 Chevy custom one ton dually
              1988 Mustang N/A 385 w/doug nash 9.88@137 (sold)
              2001 GSXR-1000 turbo lowered & extended (sold)
              1988 S-10 468 BBC lowered & body dropped (sold)
              on & on

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              • #22
                This was factory carbed. There isn't any idle mix screw on this carb. I am not sure you meant by "symptoms" when taking the vac line off and on the disty? Also what is "ported" vac?
                thanks all

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                • #23
                  i cant remember if you have the same exact carb as i do or not but if you do this should help.

                  you need to run a return line from the carburetor to a T in the return line that goes from the fuel pump to the tank. i can send you pictures if you are confused by that.

                  you need to make sure that you dont have any vac leaks. use a can of carb cleaner and be careful but spray it on all of the vac ports you capped and where the adapter seals on the top and bottom. if it revs up higher when you spray it on then you have a leak.

                  the idle mixture screw is directly on the back side at the way bottom of the carb in the center. there may be a little plastic cap over it but it is a little screw that sits inside of a collar so you cant see it just by looking. this controls how much air and fuel is being sucked into the engine. the ideal setting for the mixture screw is 2.5 to 3 turns out.

                  the float level adjustment is on the back side of the carb as well but closer to the passenger side of the vehicle. it is a little screw that sticks out and has a spring between the head of the screw and carb body and it sticks out at a little bit of an angle.

                  you just have to toy around with the float level by letting it just sit there running...if it starves and dies you need to raise the float. if it floods out and dies it needs to be lowered. this controls how much fuel is stored in the bowl.
                  as for your vacuum lines you can just leave the brake booster vac the way that it is from the factory. and for the distributor you need to have 2 lines and you can just leave them hooked up where they were as well. EVERYTHING else can be capped on the carb as well as the manifold

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                  • #24
                    Right now it starts up and idles smooth as silk, don't know how that could be any better. The only problem now is that you have to go easy on the pedal as you accelerate or it will pop back through the carb. Even that issue gets better as it warms up. Still haven't gotten around to making an aircleaner for it, coming soon.

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                    • #25
                      You might have answered this already, but what's your fuel pressure?
                      You want to watch this at idle and also when you rev it up.
                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8SilV257aM

                      1999 SVT Lightning #1212
                      1993 tube chassis Festiva 351w (shooting for the 9s)
                      1980 Maples jet boat 455 olds
                      1991 Chevy custom one ton dually
                      1988 Mustang N/A 385 w/doug nash 9.88@137 (sold)
                      2001 GSXR-1000 turbo lowered & extended (sold)
                      1988 S-10 468 BBC lowered & body dropped (sold)
                      on & on

                      Comment

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