G series install is better off done with a welder or someone who has one, handy. Being around fabricators my whole life it's strange to think that someone doesn't know a person with a welder, to me they are everywhere. If you go to your local exhaust shop then there usually is a guy who can take what you've widdled out and weld it together kinda like you want it for pretty cheap. That's what I did when I was in college and didn't have a welder handy. It worked great and you'd be surprised at the talent you can find around the corner.
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where is the best G25MR swap guide? :)
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I understand what you're saying. It might sound like I live on an island because there are no decent parts stores for 50 miles or a ferry ride.... I DO live on an island so finding fab resources is difficult. Also, both of my parents aren't into the whole "The house is merely tool storage thing" I can try and find someone to do a spot of welding but I would prefer to do this in-house as it were because while the festy is down for the count I have no wheels. Both parents work and as a 17 year old boy in the summer its nice to have transportation. Bit of a rant there. So back to the original question. Anyone know what works best for a no-weld rear mount as it seems that the front and pass. mount are good?
Thanks, sorry OP for the threadjackOwner of:
1991 Red Festiva L, 5 speed (Swagger Wagon)
In progress:
BP+G25MR swap, Kia rio axles hopefully.
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That doesn't sound too bad, pics wouldn't be bad, and would probably help out this thread seeing as it's about the G25MR which is the hydro and most people want to stay cable operated.
ThanksOwner of:
1991 Red Festiva L, 5 speed (Swagger Wagon)
In progress:
BP+G25MR swap, Kia rio axles hopefully.
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