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Hydro G-series with chris's adapter

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  • #16
    ^^exactly my point

    When I built the 4 cyl. adapters, I could never fully test them in a car so I could never play around with that ratio to get a good pedal feel, the best I could do is run it through the motion by hand with a cable bolted to the tranny on my work bench
    Last edited by Damkid; 03-10-2012, 06:18 AM.

    1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
    1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
    2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

    1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

    If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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    • #17
      to make your clutch easier to push you will need a longer arm on the adapter. its all about the ratios. i noticed he made yours a good bit shorter than mine

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      • #18
        I've made three conversions, one hydro, two cable. The first cable set up is problematic, failing often, the other still works. All the methods will not give the same feel, as stock. For spirited driving I prefer tthe hydro with super short through, but for daily driving I like the cable adapter that Fast and I have used.
        Neil

        Jesus loves me. This I know.

        93 L track prep in progress
        88? Parts car-sold
        91 L B6-me f25mr-soon to be ???
        86 b2000- pisses of HOA-sold
        1997 k1500 suburban- kid hauler/GAS hog

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        • #19
          Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Post
          i am using a very long custom built cable with my own bracket. one end attaches to the pedal the other to the clutch fork itself(which is the hook end tip of the cable trans welded directly to the tip of the hydro clutch fork) . my clutch feels smooth but it may just be that the cable is still brand new.
          hey bro can you post up details and pics for your setup i need to make some changes so i feel more comfortable driving
          -90 festiva - bp swap "relentless" (thanks matt) aspire swap, pacesetter, underdrive pulley
          -90 festiva - surf blue (undetermined destiny) wanna keep but wifey says noooooooo

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Rocketman View Post
            It's still going to take the same amount of force to disengage the clutch, the spring is just going to make your engagement/pedal feel/response more vague feeling.

            if you want less pedal effort, you could mess with the pivot point/moment arm sizes - work on a different ratio. Less effort will mean more travel to achieve the same thing, though
            part of what i mean about making it easier and more adjustable is the spring would allow me to ground the pedal at a light or stop sign the way it is now you can only push it down as far as you have the pull adjusted. and like the charecteristics of a typicle spring clutch you would push the pedal until the spring pulled its full force on the fork disenguageing the clutch and when the spring hits its tension limit it would ease up on force to pull and allow it soften more as the pedle continued to the floor..... rite?

            isnt that the concept on a regular spring loaded clutch fork (just oppisite) you push the pedal and is more firm till it hits its tension limit then kinda softens up .... rite? im just trying to improve the feel of an already great invention
            -90 festiva - bp swap "relentless" (thanks matt) aspire swap, pacesetter, underdrive pulley
            -90 festiva - surf blue (undetermined destiny) wanna keep but wifey says noooooooo

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            • #21
              so did you guys have to get rid of your neutral safety switch when you used the adapter? if i adjust the pedal to disengage the clutch where i want it to then i cant put the pedal down far enough to start the car without pushing it with my finger.
              -90 festiva - bp swap "relentless" (thanks matt) aspire swap, pacesetter, underdrive pulley
              -90 festiva - surf blue (undetermined destiny) wanna keep but wifey says noooooooo

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