HEI conversion

[drddan]

Hey, to all you converters

Is this something like, what I need, to do an HEI conversion?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOLLEY-ANNIH...fc5efb&vxp=mtr

[Movin]

Cheap and made somewhere where chevy was not....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Assault-Racing-SBC-BBC-Chevy-Clear-Cap-HEI-Distributor-65k-Volt-/390437238731?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae7df77cb&vxp=mtr#ht_1834wt_908

At least packaged in USA? You are dressing up the chevelle ? If you really want the
low ohm coil systems with the required big box ..?? then you will need the HEI disty
to put that holley system in. You really do not need the super high voltage until
you are above a 1000 hp..more or less depending on cubes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Moroso-HEI-Distributor-High-Output-Chevy-GM-350-454-/150830520944?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231e331a70&vxp=mtr#ht_1904wt_955

[drddan]

^ Sorry, the Chevelle is dead and gone, hince the R.I.P. in sig.

I am wanting to convert The Festy to HEI and get rid of that freakin' module in the carby distributor!
I had another module/disty die on me last week! :nono:
I had a spare so it was a quick fix, but the 88-89 carb disty's suck!!! :p

There are threads here about the HEI conversion to these disty's, involving removing the module and plugging in an MSD box type HEI, into where the module's connect to the disty.
I have always liked the GM HEI system.

[blkfordsedan]

Your fuel pump is on and the car is running good now?

[drddan]

Nah, i've been lazy! :p

Pump is ready to install. I work a lot of hours working nightshift, I cant seem to get myself to do anything during the week!

Off tomorrow thru monday. Plan is to get up and install the pump tommorow.

I just want to convert to HEI next.

I'm confident the car will run good when I install the elec pump. I have a plan to mod the mech pump to make it work with the too small fuel pump lobe on the cam also...just in case

P.S. How about my original question?

[BigElCat]

I've never heard of a 4 banger HEI....just 6 and 8.

I have a 6 cylinder HEI on my Ford 300.

[drddan]

I've never heard of a 4 banger HEI....just 6 and 8.

I have a 6 cylinder HEI on my Ford 300.

Threads are posted here about it! A lot of them work on 4,6,& 8 cylinders nowadays, prolly because of all the turbo'd 4 bangers.

The link I posted above, in the description, states, adjustable for 4,6,& 8 cyl.

[Movin]

I don't understand ? It seems you wanted the holley for reliability ?
I have put on several variations of the MSD but not for DD reliability.
They provide enough power to the plug for short duration's so that
an off-road event is not ruined by weak spark, among other things.
These systems usually prove less reliable by far if used for DD than
the stock type counterpart.

[drddan]

I want the HEI to get rid of the module in the 88-89 carb'd disty's.
The module's have a tendency to go out.

The Holley was just a good price. I might stay stock, but I am contemplating going the HEI route.

I put the link to the Holley up, to see if it would work, and confirmation it was one, that could be used.

I am still green/new on doing an HEI conversion on a Festy, and am gathering info on the conversion.

Is there a good HEI type box that would be good for a DD?

[drddan]

Your fuel pump is on and the car is running good now?

Pump is on!

It is better. Not quite as good as i'd like, though.
Still playing with the timing, carb adjustments, and watching the fuel through the clear filter.
I just advanced the timing, and it picked up some. Set it by ear after setting it with a T. light. It seems to like 10*+ advance right now, with out detonating. Time and a few tuning sesions, I think it will be good to go.

[FestYboy]

you can't run the HEI system (or any other ignition system for that matter) without a modual... the dizzy has to stay, along with the pickup inside. you CAN replace the modual with a GM unit,, but you have to fuss with the wireing integration and you had better have the unit attached to a heat sink of some sort. GM units HATE heat and will fail without a moments notice. if you want to keep the original stuff reliable (gm's are anything but...) keep the dizzy clean and oil free, that's it.

[Movin]

^^ GM and ford modules kept tow trucks busy..

If you remove the module you have a couple screws to mount a pick up
coil. The mopar 5 pin modules were external and reliable. If I were to
go with a module improvement I would wire something like this up.

[IdealSociety]

HEI, pfft.

Toyota COP's

[Movin]

I bet THAT was a five minute conversion!! LOL Looks nice. Do you have trouble cooking
the bonding agent hot enough that it climbs the porcelain from the shell clear to
the boot? The problem is clearly related to heat and COP is pretty much exclusive
for having this problem. There are four very popular brands of plugs I currently
do not use to avoid this problem. I have not had the porcelain come loose , the
glue encourages a missfire. I don't think it would be a good idea to discuss these
brands, just wondering if you have seen the problem on your HEI conversion?

[Banana Bonanza]

Ignition modules hate heat. Mount the GM module to a chunk of aluminum using thermal grease and put the aluminum someplace well away from engine heat and they last forever. I have a GM module on both my F250 with 300-6 and my little Ranger with 300-6 for years and never burned out one yet. Have used them on variety of other engines, Volvo, Nissan, etc. Again mounted remotely with proper heatsink and they last forever. The $15 aftermarket 4 pin GM module can do anything the expensive OEM non computer modules can do. The original Ford modules were fine, I only used it on the Fords first cause the cheap chinese made aftermarket non-computer Ford modules tend to suck and second cause I wanted to use TFI/HEI coil. The 4 pin HEI module can fire any coil you care to use though without need of ballast resistor or resistor wire. So no biggie, you want to use HEI module on Festiva, mount it to chunk of aluminum Mount aluminum to fender or someplace away from engine heat. Run the two wires to the pickup coil on the distributor, the other two to the ignition coil. Voila. Be aware the HEI module is a bit crude in one way, it doesnt retard ignition during starting like many other modules. This means you have to play with timing to where engine starts easily but also has enough advance going down the road. There is a sweet spot where it works.



Ignore the wire colors above, this drawing is from article on using GM module on a Ford. But you get the idea. The two wires from the pickup coil in distributor, if car doesnt run right, swap them on terminals on module.

By way you can use a TFI Ford ignition module (not the GM HEI) to eliminate points on any older point type ignition. The points then just act as trigger for the module which fires the coil. Very little current goes through the points compared to regular point ignition and thus they last forever. The TFI modules have bad rep for reliability, but again get them away from heat and mounted to heat sink using thermal paste and they last forever. Why car engineers thought it was cute to mount the ignition modules on or in the distributor is beyond me. Smarter to mount remount even under the dash.