HEI conversion

[Banana Bonanza]

^^ GM and ford modules kept tow trucks busy..

If you remove the module you have a couple screws to mount a pick up
coil. The mopar 5 pin modules were external and reliable. If I were to
go with a module improvement I would wire something like this up.

I have heard people brag on Chrysler modules. But I OWNED a 1976 Dodge D100. That sucker went through so many modules, it wasnt funny. This was before I learned I could use a GM module mounted remotely. Anyway after couple LONG walks, learned to always keep spare ignition module and spare 4 prong ballast resistor that went along with the Chrysler system. The Ford modules (genuine Ford, not Chinese clones) and GM modules (the clones nearly all are just as good as original) beat the Chrysler module by a mile for durability. Dont know what weakness was with the Chrysler modules, maybe not big enough heatsink. The Japanese and Bosch modules were ok, but priced to the moon. Back in the day the Japanese and Bosch modules were two or three hundred dollars. All the modules are just a big transistor. So somebody was a mite greedy when American ones sold under $20. You used to go to junkyard and all the Japanese and Bosch modules tended to be missing off the junkers.

[BigElCat]

Here's how to put the HEI on the Ford 300.

It's custom made by Performance Distributors. It's called a DUI; Davis Unified Ignition.

[Movin]

[QUOTE=Banana Bonanza;545020]I have heard people brag on Chrysler modules. But I OWNED a 1976 Dodge D100. That sucker went through so many modules, it wasnt funny.

There are exceptions like yours, I just sold my 1976 MH with its original
factory module. In the shop I stocked blue and yellow ford early modules and a few TFI modules and a few GM modules. I did not stock any other module
except the toyota pick up module that mounted under the coil.

I should have stocked the jeep french made module but didn't.

Heat was GM's enemy, moisture - fog and heat killed fords.

Your dodge had unfiltered voltage spikes or some other problem
causing failure.

Remote mounting the GM on a good heatsink in a dry location would
be fine but the pins are small, high quality connectors would help
keep heat down, better, computer soldering techniques to hard wire
the module.

How would you wire a non computer COP HEI ??

[Banana Bonanza]

Your dodge had unfiltered voltage spikes or some other problem
causing failure.

When the Chrysler modules failed the resin stuff on back they sealed them with melted. Assume overheating for whatever reason.

You dont want the crimp on connectors for the wires going to GM module. Solder them to wires but after that nothing special, generic push on connectors work fine. One needs to be the narrower kind. Never had problem that way. Never had heat/corrosion problem at the push on connectors. The heat problem is they mounted the stupid GM module in the distributor and people didnt use the thermal grease or enough thermal grease or whatever. Or the thermal grease didnt hold up. Ford and Chrysler had built in heat sink, the GM didnt. The Chinese Ford modules didnt have as robust of a heat sink. The parts stores were selling all three modules aftermarket version for under $20. Sure the aftermarket companies were economizing more on the bigger more expensive to manufacture Ford and Chrysler modules. The GM module didnt have a built in heatsink and was minimalist so they didnt have to economize as much.

Ignition problems of Fords of that era were the coil terminals. They came up with some goofy coil terminal connectors that corroded without warning. Same with push together wiring harness connectors, thats when they started using dielectric grease in them. The later TFI coils were copy of the HEI coil. They were way to go. Some said a Ford blue module will handle TFI. Never tried it. The GM module has no problem, use HEI, TFI, or even a points coil, it will fire them all just fine. Why anybody would use points coil when you can use a HEI/TFI is beyond me but whatever. Maybe some distributor caps/rotors cant handle the high voltage??

[Banana Bonanza]

[ATTACH]7443[/ATTACH]

Here's how to put the HEI on the Ford 300.

It's custom made by Performance Distributors. It's called a DUI; Davis Unified Ignition.

I am sure its a fine product if on expensive side.

But for daily driver, the native Ford Duraspark II distributor never gave me a problem. and they work fine with a remotely mounted HEI module and an external HEI/TFI coil. The 300 isnt a high revving engine, you just dont get much more power out of them pushing them over 3000 rpm just more noise. Their peak torque is like 1800rpm. So misfire at high rpm really not a concern.

The inline 4 and 6 GM engines in 70s and early 80s had an external HEI coil. The V engines had coil in the cap. Same coil, just external versions had special bracket. All Ford TFI coils were external.

[Movin]

These COP ignitions are sure causing problems..just replaced two on a V10 with only
20K miles. Put a whole set on a v10 last month. At least at 20K the plugs came out
with out breaking off.
Back to HEI conversion, I would use the brand and type of module not currently
being replaced at a rapid rate, as pointed out above our native companies are out-
sourcing with a price so cheap to them that warranty is no problem...walk the twenty
miles in and get a new one for free!! Where I go that is not acceptable!
My 89 has not had any ignition problems yet. If it does the 1.3 would place the COP
system out where it might hold up. Having 4 modules and pick ups would be a little
complex, maybe impossible using the stock disty. Perhaps some of the problems
I am seeing around here are High altitude ( spark jumps to ground easy )
High ambient heat..105 F nearby coming to here and 6% grades ..very high
under hood heat. Spring and fall we get a lot of fog and wild temp swings, Ford
put out a TSB about their modules and moisture, they need connector grease to
seal the pins, otherwise corrosion with cause open circuits internal.

Something to be said for just slapping in the spare reman disty from behind the seat!!

[drddan]

Something to be said for just slapping in the spare reman disty from behind the seat!!

:p As easy as it gets! A lot of great info given here by all, and thanks to you all.

I just ordered a $47 module for the disty. Going to put in the disty, test it, and it will be in the "rescue" box, in the cargo area.

One Q though. What is this "Heat Sink" paste mentioned?
Is it the same as the electronic heat sink paste i've seen when searching. I have not seen any paste mentioned for cars.

Thanks....

[Movin]

Some parts stores are selling Di-electric silicone grease for heat sink thermal
paste, don't use that. Some foreign made modules come with di-electric grease
instead of heat sink paste. Use only thermal paste that is paper white and not
greasy or silicone like the di electric stuff.

[drddan]

Yes, dielectric is just that. Dielectric, not a heat sink paste.

I've checked a couple part stores. Nada. I'll try a couple local part places, see if they have it. Thanks.