B3 turbo

[iceracerdude]

Well yeah, of course I don't know what resources you have avail. to you. You might be jr. OR senior from American Chopper for all I know. I'm just sayin, it ain't cheap and it ain't easy. It can be satisfing though. It would be nice to be able to take advantage of some of those really nice ready made manifolds on e bay for around $100

[rab]

i just wanted to state that im not a newbie just throwing ?'s out there with no knowledge. thanks for the pics.
my goal is to build a cheap set-up for a fun winter ride (i live in WI)
thanks

[rab]

ICERACER
what are you running for a clutch? also what options are out there?

doesn't the mazda b6 block have holes in for oil and coolant like the mazda bp?

also what are you running for fuel manegment?
thanks

[iceracerdude]

Stock festiva style clutch, I believe it's a 7". I think you'll want the exedy 7.5 inch. See, clutch grip isn't an issue for me. It's all about the tires. I use bridgestone Blizzaks and Nokian RSI's. You see, I use my festiva for wheel to wheel Ice racing right now. I know you know about that, coming from the great ice racing state of WI. Some of the the biggest clubs and greatest ice evah. You guys way get your ice before us. After that cold blows across that old Lake Michigan, it warms up just a little before it gets to us. My b6 block doesn't have oil holes. I ran a tee off the pressure sender, and then 30" of -3an braided line ($35 w/tee). The coolant I picked up off the hose barb on the head, just over the temp sensor. I actually removed that factory pressed in steel barb and tapped in a real threaded brass barb ($6 w/tap) for the piece of mind. The other line I pulled from that barb, coming out of that steel tube that runs from the water pump, and then under the exhaust manifold to the heater core. I just cut the hose bead off of that, and placed a 5/16" brass compression fitting with a hose barb on it. I actually reversed the 2 lines after I took the pics, even cleaner now. Very slick if I do say so myself. The fuel issue was tricky. I went with the coolingmist stage 2 vari-cool system($550). This model is adjustable, not just on and off. This instead of trying to drop the compression ratio, by way of new rods and pistons, or a thicker copper head gasket. The combination of the water and methanol (50/50) way drops the head temps and way raises the octane factor. Some say as high as 115 if you inject all methanol. I don't need that, I only boost at 7 to 10 lbs. At the same time you'd have to compensate by dropping some fuel supply, or in my case I just don't add more, you see. I got the Idea from a tuning shop in Detroit. The run stock mustangs (reg. piston and rods. and compression ratio) at 10 psi with out any trouble. Give you any new Ideas?

[rab]

i never thought about water/methanol misting system.
i will probably run a fmu.
anymore pics of you car you can send me.
thanks

[iceracerdude]

Keep in mind you'll want to cool that charge somehow. Especially if you don't lower that stock compression ratio. Intercooler, 93 octane, something. Are you going to get an air/fuel ratio gauge? What fmu are you going to run?

[rab]

i will probably run a Probe GT or DSM I.C. cause i have a extra.

the FMU i have is a 12 to 1, if i run a FMU it will be with the stock injectors.

there are a few escort gt guys running big power numbers (big turbo set-ups)on tuned vams, and stock n/a ecus. they are from florida, all they do is running bigger injectors, sometime bigger FP's ,stock ecu and tune the vam (vane airflow meter) buy turning the wheel in the vam.

also there is always the crude extra injector set up, a really crude way to do this is with a cold start injector and a hoobs switch.

im not sure on what im going to do yet, probably the fmu set-up. it will be the safest for now than maybe try bigger injectors and get a extra VAM and try to tune it with the WB02

also i have a NGK wideband 02 on order, seeing i own 2 boosted EGT's and soon a BF 323 that will be boosted in need this.

thanks ryan

[rab]

iceracerdude
what did you do about the vaccum advance on you dizzy seeing it advaces for vaccum and your putting boost to it?
thanks

[iceracerdude]

Although the engine is an 89, the distributor and the ecu are 1990, hence no vacuum advance, all electronic. I'm selling this car to my buddy and I'm putting the b3 engine from my new 97 aspire back into it. The b6 is now going into the fresher, more rigid platform this aspire seems to be. Hoping the turbo clears the radiator.

[rab]

any other suggestions on what to do about the vaccum advance problem i will have.
thanks

[iceracerdude]

Rab, what car are you doing this work to. what year, manual or auto, carb or fi. If you're 1990 or newer, just use/or get a 90 or new distrib. from the junk yard, or shop the mazda forum, they really don't wear out. Don't buy a new one on e bay, that's too much money. Then just get the appropriate ecu. I got my ecu for cheap on the mazda forum. let me know what car your working with. Oh yeah, I was at a pick and pull the other day and I couldn't believe all of the escorts and spoilers and stuff there. And everythings so inexpensive. I got a new rust free complete hatch/w heated glass IN MY COLOR! for just 42 bucks.

[rab]

the car is a 1989 mazda 323 1.6 SOHC, FI, 5 speed, but it has the vacuum advance deal.
thanks

[iceracerdude]

I put my 89 b6 engine into a 90 festiva, so the harness was already set up for the newer style distributor, but not the 323 injectors. So I spliced the 323 injector wire ends onto that festiva harness. Everything else stays the same. In your case, you get to Keep the 323 injector ends, but need to get a newer harness for the distributor end. At the same time you get the newer distrib. get the harness. section you need. How many plugs does your ecu have? Mine is the 2 plug style. It's been a while but my 323 ecu is a b6k.... something, 2 plug. Its actually harder to get at it, then it is to actually find one. By the way I have a real good picture of one in its location in a festiva, that might give you some help.

[htchbck]

Taking out the ECU without removing the dash is hard, but doable... I still haven't gotten mine back in the dash yet though, its just bolted over to the side of the car under the dash to the left of the clutch, lol

[Guest]

The EFI B3 disty will work.