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Dickmeyer Automotive Engineering Race Header B3/B6

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    Hehehehe!

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  • Team Lightning
    replied
    TMI Festyboy!

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    what he's not telling you is what he does to that tail pipe after he kneels down.....
    Last edited by FestYboy; 02-04-2013, 07:08 PM.

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  • blkfordsedan
    replied
    Originally posted by mattdickmeyer View Post
    . If you kneel 25' behind the tailpipe, you can eel the exhaust pulses smack you in the face at idle.
    so, is this something you do when you're alone in your shop at night? Does the wife know about this?? LOL

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  • rmoltis
    replied
    That's awesome. So by that answer my current size is sufficient for stock. But underrated for any modifications I would attain from your products. Thx for the info yet again.

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  • mattdickmeyer
    replied
    Originally posted by rmoltis View Post
    I have a question. You said your header was designed to work well with the stock exhaust setup. My question is. If you wanted a complete exhaust setup. what would be the best pipe size after the cat to the muffler. I understand that it depends on the application either big pipe for higher rpm volumetric efficiency. or small pipe for low rpm v.e. what would be the best balance of both worlds for a DD? I've been thinking of downsizing my exhaust diameter from 1.75"-1.5" I think stock was 1.25"-1.375. I like low end grunt more than high rpm power should I match the after cat pipe to the size of the header primaries?
    I think 1.5 inch would be a little on the small side. If it helps, I am running 2.5 inch from the header to the tail pipe. HP & torque was tremendously higher throughout the RPM range. The lowest I loaded on the engine on the dyno was 2,000 RPM. But granted, my engine is not stock. If you kneel 25' behind the tailpipe, you can eel the exhaust pulses smack you in the face at idle.

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    factory festy OD after the cat is 1.5", if you're in the 1.75-1.825 range with a warmed over B3, i'd think you're in the sweet spot.

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  • rmoltis
    replied
    I have a question. You said your header was designed to work well with the stock exhaust setup. My question is. If you wanted a complete exhaust setup. what would be the best pipe size after the cat to the muffler. I understand that it depends on the application either big pipe for higher rpm volumetric efficiency. or small pipe for low rpm v.e. what would be the best balance of both worlds for a DD? I've been thinking of downsizing my exhaust diameter from 1.75"-1.5" I think stock was 1.25"-1.375. I like low end grunt more than high rpm power should I match the after cat pipe to the size of the header primaries?
    Last edited by rmoltis; 02-01-2013, 10:38 AM.

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  • mattdickmeyer
    replied
    Originally posted by fastiva89 View Post
    Is that $300 with shipping or without?
    Purchaser pays s/h, I would have no way to guess on s/h without a destination.

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  • fastiva89
    replied
    Is that $300 with shipping or without?

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  • rmoltis
    replied
    I wish this were available a few months ago when I had to buy my header from Australia. I would have just bought one of yours instead. I'll be back in later months when I can save up some cash.

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  • bhazard
    replied
    Re: Dickmeyer Automotive Engineering Race Header B3/B6

    Now I really need to pay you a visit. I wanna ditch the muffler on my TDI but I want to put a flange in its place so I can put it back on if I want.

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  • mattdickmeyer
    replied
    Originally posted by blkfordsedan View Post
    For the extra money, you could probably buy an aftermarket ball-n-socket flange and a hi-flow cat. Any muffler shop should be able to hook it up to the factory mid-pipe without issue. Plus, you'd have a much better performing system. Putting the OEM cat behind the header would be like smoking and not inhaling, lol.

    On second thought, maybe the exhaust shops around you wouldn't touch it...even here in rural nowhere, some shops won't mess with any non-stock from the cat forward.
    I have considered adding a flex joint & ball/socket flange to my header so that the outlet is more flexible to line up with whatever exhaust system you have better. Also, by law, shops can't remove converters due to fines. I have an exhaust bender & do custom exhaust all the time & the way I get around this is simply ask the customer to trailer their car to the shop & tell me it's a race car which will never be driven on the street. Then I am free to do whatever you want me to do. When I am done, you trailer it away & what I don't know don't hurt me. Most exhaust shops do this. Ask yours.

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  • mattdickmeyer
    replied
    Originally posted by Pu241 View Post
    Matt, would it be possible to extend the pipe and put a flange on it to direct mate it to a OEM cat arrangement.
    I know it will cost, but I like the direct bolt up solution.
    Not to mention I do not weld and don't know anyone professional or otherwise in this area that I could have this done.
    The reason I leave the header outlet unflanged is for 2 reasons....1) I am sure basically no 2 of you have the exact exhaust arrangement so what fits perfectly for one person will have to be modified for another. The header is really intended to maximize performance & I feel the likely hood of someone who purchases this header is going to put a performance oriented exhaust behind it anyway. 2) The more I have to do to the header the more complicated it becomes to build & the more expensive is gets. I feel the majority of you have some fab skills or know someone who does to modify the exhaust as it is quite simple to do. But for your particular application, if you absolutely need a direct bolt on, I would certainly accommodate you.

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  • mattdickmeyer
    replied
    Originally posted by Pu241 View Post
    Were those gains with cat and OEM exhaust, or modified exhaust.
    Very interested as I need to replace an exhaust manifold and down pipe anyway!

    Dynod with no cat & stock exhaust.

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