doesnt everyone have the little nipple on top of their intake manifold, the little right angle nipple. i hook that straight to my jar and it sucks the steam out of the jar. ill get some pictures of my setup soon. the jar is mounted were my gas tank scenvenging canister was at. at least thats what ive heard it refered to as. the pork and beans sized jar located on the passenger side firewall.
see joe, i have about 5 main reasons for installing this. as festyboy said, its like a power stroke more or less. you get a little power boost from the steam expanding even more. 2. ive read that steam in a combustion engine some how reduces emitions, ill let the scientists answer that one. 3. its like a never ending amount of "seafoam" going into my engine. in theory all the parts should be shiny and steam cleaned after you run enough water through it. 4. steam in an engine will take up the space that the un needed air will be. since im introducing the steam into the vacuum side of the mani, when its wide open throttle, not alot of steam will be getting sucked, but under cruise conditions, when im looking to boost my fuel economy, the steam will be alot more dense as a steam/air ratio, hence making the engine behave like a smaller displacement engine, come to find out i only have 4 main reasons. so you guys think i could run with max ignition timing and itd work ok. i dont really know of the benefits of max or regular timing advance. but id prefer for my combustion to be as hot as possible for the most steam expantion possible.
...its like a power stroke more or less. you get a little power boost from the steam expanding even more.
As my girlfriend looks at me like I'm an idiot with my fist doing intake, compression, power, and exhaust strokes in the air...
I picture steam entering during the intake stroke and expanding immediately as it takes on heat from the cylinders. Or is the expansion minimal until after compression/combustion? I'm trying to wrap my head around how this works with the intake charge.
Could you compare this with water injection?
Now I have to research another project...
Water has to go through a change of state to become steam, it takes a lot of energy to change state, like how air conditioning works. What that means is it does not take much water to cool the intake charge and to remove heat from the combustion cycle by turning to steam. Some of the steam will be broken down to its base elements of 2 hydrogen atoms and one oxygen . The speed of the flame front of hydrogen is many times faster than petroleum fuel. This will start flame fronts in other areas of the combustion chamber besides just at the spark plug. This helps eliminate the compression of end gasses to the point of self ignition ( detonation - ping ). It also promotes more complete combustion. Cleaner exhaust and more power.
The difference between steam and water as the engine sees it. Water taking energy to turn to steam can put the fire out . It does not take much to remove the problem of too much heat and ping.
Steam does not take heat to change state and it will disperse and mix far better than water. This means that more water molecules will be cracked to atoms for combustion as compared to water injection.
An engine injecting steam will use more water than an engine injecting water. A race engine that just needs to make more power without detonation then water injection is more efficient. If you want more complete combustion better power and better fuel economy then steam is better as you can get more product in without putting the fire out.
hydrogen peroxide is made of nothing but hydrogen and oxygen atoms.
all winter long i was getting around 33. but one trip home from my parents place, i got 40.5. thats all ive recorded so far. last summer i got a consistant 38. so 40.5 is beating my average by a fair share. AND!!! im running without an O2 sensor installed. have been since last march. not any big issues yet. i need to get my custom built header and that o2 back in the system.
i like steam more than water injection, because ive always pictured water injection at highway speeds having alot of pooling issues. were as steam rises. look at the stuff coming off your stove when you are boiling water. that stuff doesnt pool any. so steam in the combustion chamber would disperse better with the available air. i always assumed the steam would absorb the heat after the combustion happened, or during. depends on how you look at it. but ive read studies that say that steam in a high compression motor can actually raise the average BMEP levels while consistantly lowering the peak BMEP levels. which means, more average torque, with lower peak torque per combustion.
my jar is about a 20oz jar. i usually dont fill it above 14oz line, because i dont want bumps and turns to allow the water to get to my manifold vacuum spot. and, the surface area ratio of outside jar to coolant coil just keeps getting higher when the water lvl is up. meaning, when my water is low, the inside temp isnt as effected by the outside ambient air temps, but when its high, my coil doesnt have enough heat transfer ability to keep the mass of water up at a good operating temp, meaning- shit wont evaporate/steam if theres alot of water. im assuming everyone has a thermostat bypass nipple on the front of their block, thats where i get my hot from, and you could return it just about anywhere you please. i think itd really kick ass if i installed a 210 degree thermostat. but idk if id want to pay that water bill. i know itd go through it a little fast.
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