magnetic drain plugs engine+transmission

[rmoltis]

Went out and bought new oil for both cars.

Got (2)-5qt jugs of Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic $24.97ea
And 2 purolator oil filters for $3.97ea



All at walmart.

I like to use 10w30 in the aspire in the summertime here since it gets pretty hot.
And 5w30 in the wintertime since it gets super cold and winter is right around the corner.

The corolla on the other hand is spec'd for 5w30 so I can use it in summer and winter and should be fine.

I'll be changing the oil within the next few days since I haven't really hit the 3000 mark yet.
It's close though.

Maybe even just next weekend.

[getnpsi]

that purolator is the same one as a ford motorcraft. so so for a long change interval. I would get the purolator yellow grippy version sold on advance autoparts website...not that i have ever heard of a festiva oil failure yet. orielys had their house brand 5qt. synthetic on special for 17.95 and i forgot to get that stuff, i also get a 10% discount because I say I'm a student. Remember if you have any vacuum leaks or a bad seal on your intake you are introducing way more junk into your oil that isn't ferrous and doing more damage than those particles the magnets grab.

[Tommychu]

Went out and bought new oil for both cars.

Got (2)-5qt jugs of Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic $24.97ea
And 2 purolator oil filters for $3.97ea

I'll let you in on a little secret here. If your Corolla takes a 14476 and you're into going crazy on your oil system you should use a 14477. Same base, more media. That means less time with an open filter bypass. That's what I use on mine.

[rmoltis]

I've always used this same oil on every car I own.
Nothing crazy is happenning.

The only change is the magnetic drain plugs +purolator oil filter.

I usually just buy fram or Bosch filters but after seeing dissassemblies online of every brand of oil filter.
I found out fram is complete s***.
And purolator is one of the best.

The only difference I saw between the purolator and the pure one was more filter media area.
And since I'm not going for extended oil changes the base model purolator will be fine for my usage/cost.

And I don't have any vacuum leaks on either car
The corolla has only 53k miles.
And the aspire I've had since 89k now its at 119k still super healthy and well maintained.
And oil changes are done religiously at 3k mi. Even though I'm sure I could go longer its just habit.

I replace anything as soon as it goes south or gets close.
Or a lot of the time before anything even happens for peace of mind.

[Tommychu]

I've been using standard Puro filters for 5 years. I've never actually seen a PureOne in person.
Putting a 14477 (or any other high quality filter made for the 2ZZ) on is one of the best things you can do for the oil system on a 1ZZ (and any other engine that used the 14476), and it's only a buck or two more at most-and in many cases they're the same price. Remember that while the bypass doesn't open often (unless you've got engine issues, abuse it or don't use your block heater in the winter) when it does open you're feeding the engine unfiltered oil and that's something to be avoided. More media means less pressure drop across the media, and the bypass valve opens or closes based on that pressure drop (regardless of what the rest of the system is doing).
Another thing to look into (if your corolla is 1ZZ) is the oil level TSB. They started having oil temp issues and that was causing problems with the rings and top end but they found that an extra half quart of oil fixed it so they put out a dipstick that reads full at a higher level. Find out if your car has had the 22050 dipstick put in and if not, just fill it half a quart higher (you don't actually need the new dipstick to do that obviously). If it does have the 22050 definitely don't fill it higher though, the valve seals wouldn't like that very much.

http://www.toyotapart.com/1ZZ-FE_ENGINE_OIL_LEVEL_SPECIFICATION_UPDATE_T-SB-0134-08.pdf

[rmoltis]

That bulletin says for 2003-2005 models.

Since I have an 2008 corolla it should be fine then right?

It was the last year of that specific model made.

Next oil change ill look into the alternative purolator.

But for now this 14476 purolator is much better than the fram alternative

Thx for the tip.

I'm still getting to know this corrolla its only been about a year now.

[Tommychu]

Yeah, '06-'08 got the 22050 from the factory so you're fine. And yeah, anything is better than those godawful pumpkin filters.
I've had my '04 Vibe for 4 years (about 50000 km of hard abuse) and she's been great. Nothing breaks unless I break it out of stupidity.

[rmoltis]

So its been 2000 miles since my oil change.
And I decided to change my oil 1000miles early
To help clean the engine a little bit.
I had 2qts of 5w30 floating around
1qt of atf fluid around.
And used 1/3qt of the drained oil.

To equal the 3.3qts needed without oil filter change as mentioned in the factory shop manual.

I used the 1qt of atf mixed in with the oil to help clean deposits
Dickmeyer had recommended to do this and run for the last 100miles of an oil change.

But instead of replacing 1qt of the used oil with atf I just used mostly new leftover oil so if there were any deposits cleaned out the oil would be able to readily accept these deposits more easily.
Also the oil filter had 1000more miles until the replacement interval.
So I figured it would be a perfect candidate for this "flush".

I drove it gently on the freeway for 30mi after it was warmed up.
So it would stay up to temp as well as push the detergents through passageways and filter.

I'm letting it sit overnight so the detergents can soak wherever they landed to soften up any possible deposits.

Then will go on another gentle freeway drive tomorrow to finish the process off.

Then will drain thoroughly and replace with fresh oil and filter and report back.

Before I refilled the engine with oil.
I had a look at the magnetic drain plug.
And it had a small layer of fine metal particles attracted to the magnet.
I tried to take a pic of the dirty magnet but it just looked like oil in the pics. since it was such a thin layer of metal particles.

So instead I just wiped off the magnet onto a paper towel to create a better visual.

The metal particles are the black spots on the top left of the paper towel.
And the brown spots are just the motor oil itself wiped off the outside of the drain plug.





So all in all the magnetic drain plug works to capture fine particles that the oil filter doesn't.

And I will invest in a magnetic transmission drain plug on the next drain+refill.

[getnpsi]

Yup they work great. If you have dead hard drives stick one on the side of your oil filter too. i cut open a filter and there was junk in shape of the magnet sticking to the side

[Jblair]

Yup they work great. If you have dead hard drives stick one on the side of your oil filter too. i cut open a filter and there was junk in shape of the magnet sticking to the side

That is a great idea ^

[rmoltis]

That is a great idea ^

The website also sells "super black hole" magnets specifically for that purpose of using on the outside of the oil filters.

http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/superblackhole4pack.php

[jason_]

Oil is pulled through the center of filter, so naturally what gets caught on the outside of the filter case with a magnet, before filtering, will obviously show up?

If the pan plug catches anything after bearings collide with journal to produce shavings, then gets caught on magnet before pump sucks it up, of course it'll obviously show up?

I don't see the point? Catching material before it's filtered? Yay? Congrats? I can see it to reduce filter change intervals, but that's it.

And then aluminum?

Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

[Jblair]

Anything that catches material is a win. . . Worst time for wear is on start up though, without a doubt.

[jason_]

Well, a fram 3593a is 20 micron. One micron is 0.000039, so at best you'll have shavings smaller then 0.000789 inch.

I guess it's worth it to catch oiled dust. Hair is wider than 40 micron.

I'm sure the reason oil changes are encouraged. Oil itself is a filter.
The gearbox, absolutely. Engine, it's a personal preference, I guess.

My point is the filter catches everything that's deemed big enough to plug anything serious.

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[Jblair]

Pluging gallies isnt the concern, like fine course sandpaper, small particules have some affect. Why not want to catch more? Maybe it doesnt make a huge difference, but a guy that shows that much concern for his motor probably has a good running beast.