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  • #16
    No it won't hurt. But why bother? All you do us knock out a frost plug and shove it in.
    Have you ever knocked out a frost plug before? I always remove them before tanking a block. Drain the rad, get a screwdriver and knock it in a frost plug by tapping it in on one edge. It will rotate so that you can get some pliers on it to yank it out. Kinda like the same way your dentist does to you. Clean the hole with a little fine emery cloth and install the 400W heater. Install the block heater cable while the trace amount of silicone cures. Refill the antifreeze. Good luck.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
      Kinda like the same way your dentist does to you. Clean the hole with a little fine emery cloth
      Yikes! Sounds like ya'll got some crazy dentists up there in Canadaland!
      Last edited by htchbck; 12-17-2013, 09:45 AM.
      No festiva for me ATM...

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      • #18
        Sounds like that would be ideal for the oil too.

        sent from the depths of hell.
        Ford Festiva 1991 WA Model (5 Door)
        Nicknamed the car 'The Chiva' (Chilli Festiva)

        Avg Economy:
        Highway - 7.32L/100km
        City - yet to be determined.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by htchbck View Post
          Yikes! Sounds like ya'll got some crazy dentists up there in Canadaland!
          Lol oh heck yeah! Steel wool and sledgehammerz we'll get that cavity out stat!
          1993 Festiva L "Wendy" BP n' stuff
          2013 Mazdaspeed 3 "The Kraken" -Stock.

          Dave Forget

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          • #20
            Originally posted by htchbck View Post
            Yikes! Sounds like ya'll got some crazy dentists up there in Canadaland!
            When the teeth are so rotten they just break apart and only a little stump is left to grab onto, that's when we pull out the vice grips and put our knees on your chest for leverage.

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            • #21
              Hey! All you want is a 'start' advantage. Remote car starters have revolutionized the Arctic sphere. Naphtha gas-fired (propane becomes a useless non-volatile liquid at -10!) engine block heaters were outlawed in residential areas of NWT (North West Territories, and Nunavut) in about 15 years ago because of the number of accidental house fires that resulted. Thermostatically-controlled remote starters have the advantage in that they automatically restart the vehicle (and warm it up and then turn it off) when the oil sump temperature goes below a certain pre-determined point. Folks up that way, anywhere outside the electric plug-in grid, used to leave their cars running non-stop knowing perfectly well that a -40 F or C engine could never be counted on restarting unless drastic measures were taken.

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              • #22
                here are the correct #s for the block heaters. the production block heater is E7GZ6A051A. the dealer installed heater is E8GZ6D008A. either one is available from GREEN SALES in OHIO. 1-800-543-4959.


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                • #23
                  Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                  No it won't hurt. But why bother? All you do us knock out a frost plug and shove it in.
                  Have you ever knocked out a frost plug before? I always remove them before tanking a block. Drain the rad, get a screwdriver and knock it in a frost plug by tapping it in on one edge. It will rotate so that you can get some pliers on it to yank it out. Kinda like the same way your dentist does to you. Clean the hole with a little fine emery cloth and install the 400W heater. Install the block heater cable while the trace amount of silicone cures. Refill the antifreeze. Good luck.
                  OK well thank you you really have been helpful! ty1 (I'm not being sarcastic really) The heater has been ordered and will be here on the 30th, I plan on replacing the radiator and the hoses at the same time. I will try and make a picture journal of it! can anyone think of anything else I should replace whale I have the cooling system apart? thermostat Is good.

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