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[IWTS] frame notching pics for a g-sereies/BP swap

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  • [IWTS] frame notching pics for a g-sereies/BP swap

    [WTS] "I Want To See" pics of the necessary frame notching for a BP /g-series swap. Post 'em if you gottem'
    -Bryant

  • #2
    I don't think frame knotching is necessary, with the trans as close to the frame rail as it can get, it leaves plenty of room on the engine side especially if you run a B3 single belt crank pulley

    1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
    1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
    2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

    1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

    If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

    Comment


    • #3
      Awesome. I like the sounds of that. But what about the need for a harmonic balancer? Necessary? Or is it ok to just run the b3 pulley like you said. A built BP and turbo is going in.
      -Bryant

      Comment


      • #4
        I've ran a B3 pulley on a NA BP before without any issues, however I'm not sure how good of an idea it would be with boost.... I'd ask Greg (euro) about it since he's obviously had tons of experience with boosted BP's lol

        1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
        1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
        2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

        1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

        If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

        Comment


        • #5
          Really, you guys don't have to notch the frame for the BP? Necessary on the BF chassis
          1991 Mercury Capri XR2 "GTXR2" BPT Swapped AWD Conversion

          Rocketchips!
          High Flow B3/B6/BP VAF Adapters for sale!
          Bolt-on Weber Carb Adapters!

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          • #6
            I think icedawg notched his ice racer
            1988 MAZDA 121- B6T + G5MR SWAP IN PROGRESS.

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            • #7
              Yep.
              Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.

              Old Blue- New Tricks
              91 Festiva FSM PDF - Dropbox

              Comment


              • #8
                Some folks do some folks don't. If you do it makes changing the belt a whole lot easier. If you don't its going to be pretty tight, but it fits as long as you machine off the extra serpentine pulley from the harmonic balancer, or find one that isn't a one piece two step pulley.
                ~Nate

                the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                Current cars:
                91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                FOTY 2008 winner!

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                • #9
                  Depending how much power you plan on making 250 or up. i would suggest either a be oil pump or harmonic balacer you will need a large nose crank for bp or b6 depending which motor you usr. As i mentioned before i watch the miata guys theu break more bp/b6s then festiva guys. The weak link of the b series seems to be the oil pump gears exploding due to vibs from the.motor. You can buy a upgraded oil pump or buy a balancer or buy both for extra insurance. If i had to pick just one i woiuld say the boundary oil pump due to i haven't heard of anyone breaking one yet.

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                  • #10

                    You guys are doing something wrong if you're notching the frame for a bp w/g series. I have done it in both a festiva and a BF. With both cable and hydro in the festiva and just hudro in the BF. As for the balancer, mine is the 3 piece b6 with holes drilled through and bolted cause the upper was slipping on the inner, i took off the serpentine ac pulley. Just don't revv over 7k and you'll be fine.

                    256whp 232wtq on 14psi and 91octane for over 2 years without engine issues.
                    Last edited by fastivaB6TG25MR; 02-24-2014, 01:51 PM.
                    I know its a piece of crap but im still faster...and its 100% legal!!!!!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Haven't done my Bp/G- series trans swap yet, so this is of great interest. If I got this right, the passenger side rail does not need notching/clearanced if using the big nose pulley from the B3 or lopping off the outer BP serpentine pulley.

                      What about the driver side frame rail? Still need to notch/clearance for the xmsn! mahalo! ....renny
                      '93 Festiva L 5spd.:
                      Aspire swap: brakes, swaybar, master cyl.

                      Aloha! ....renny

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by sketchman View Post
                        Yep.
                        Notch we did, for the B6T and G25mr combo. We have a BP lying around and measured it, and with the positioning we did for the tranny, a BP would fit where the B6T goes with no further adjustment. Perhaps you could get away without notching at all, but this approach certainly worked, and it keeps the extension lengths of the axles about right. Plus it does make working on the front end of the engine easier when it is in the car. Of course, you are still going to have to clearance the firewall somewhat for the intake on the BP.
                        Page 7 of this post has most of the mounting info. Icetiva-3-race-car-build/page7
                        Last edited by Icedawg; 02-24-2014, 04:14 PM.
                        Thricetiva replaced Icetiva as the new ride
                        Icetiva-3-race-car-build
                        http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2533299

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                        • #13
                          i did zero frame mods on my BP/hydro G . The only real cutting i had to do was the lower cross member needed the lip ground off to make room for the shift rods movement. i guess everyones engine ends up in a slightly different spot.
                          "Its not fast, but its fast for a festiva."

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by fastivaB6TG25MR View Post

                            You guys are doing something wrong if you're notching the frame for a bp w/g series. I have done it in both a festiva and a BF. With both cable and hydro in the festiva and just hudro in the BF. As for the balancer, mine is the 3 piece b6 with holes drilled through and bolted cause the upper was slipping on the inner, i took off the serpentine ac pulley. Just don't revv over 7k and you'll be fine.

                            256whp 232wtq on 14psi and 91octane for over 2 years without engine issues.
                            -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                            I guess I shouldn't get ahead of myself and just wait for the xmsn mounts JT "fastivaB6TG25MR" is making for me. Seems he has it engineered into his mounts where no notching is necessary-I like that! I figure pay the script and save the time & headache, to which I don't have. Just thought the notching/clearance issue was an inherited step when doing any BP swap? take care guys, aloha!
                            '93 Festiva L 5spd.:
                            Aspire swap: brakes, swaybar, master cyl.

                            Aloha! ....renny

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Unless you get a bp turbo intake then you don't have to clearance the firewall. I just used a hammer to move the frame a little bit. It tucks in nicely.
                              1988 Ford Festiva "Sonic" BPT g25mr MS2 standalone ecu, FOTY '11, Best Beater FMV, Fan Favorite FMVI

                              1989 Ford Mustang GT 5.slow

                              1996 Ford F-150

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