B6 and G series factory mount thread a Jawbreaker perspective

[Damkid]

I don't mean this in a rude way, but Gary, I think you're obsessed with motor mounts lately lol

But considering Aussie laws about custom mounts I understand why.... For the rest of the world, the best fitting custom motor mounts for our engine swapped cars comes out of a drill press and welded together lol

[jawbraeka]

I know.. You're not the first to tell me..

If its close and I need to drill.. I'll drill.. I'm not a complete prude when it comes to tools..

I'm just saying all together this is for people who aren't savvy or have a big budget or a shed to their devices to work in.

Also it's just good to know that something COULD be available for us if need be, providing it fits.



Sent from the depths of hell.

[jawbraeka]

here is something i found earlier today..

it has some of the mounts that i feel will be useful and the photos actually have a ruler next to the mount which is quite handy for conversion to real world scale.

http://mitsubishi.ankar.ru/a_pt?cid=23&mg=11&pt=21831&sg=510&vid=217

[moz]

I don't think so Tim.
The g series holes are 88mm apart

[jawbraeka]

OK need a photo.

Sent from the depths of hell.

[Damkid]

^^google it like you have for every other mount that "looks" similar

Just keep in mind and engines "look" similar but most are completely different when it comes down to the specs

[moz]

Gary,

I want to make some rules for this or any theoretical thread from now on.
*Theory must have a picture attached (not an ebay listing with thumbnails)
*There must be a decent level of mythbusting done before you forward a theory. This means you must have all measurements of what you propose, and the shape of the mount is somewhat similar to where it needs to fit.

If you cant provide the above, dont post the theory. wait until all evidence is gathered, and youre able to digest it.

Below is your first point of reference. Please use it every time you need to mythbust a theory before posting about it. G series mounting point dimensions:

[jawbraeka]

Moz.. I forgot to ask.. Could you also take a picture of the b6 bracket on the drivers side of the block? This is only for consistency sakes as well as the fact that those photos are very good.

Thanks.



Sent from the depths of hell.

[jawbraeka]

Mitsubishi mount DEA MT4616





Going to follow up on the mount by heading to a store called burson's.

There are two varieties of this mount.. A 1.5l and a 1.8l.

I'll be getting measurements of both and taking the bracket in for official fitment and mod information as needed.

I'll grab some snaps with measurements and placement of bracket bolts in regards to mount holes.

My feelings are still with one of these mounts as the new mount.

I have also have heard from the wrecker that these have the potential to snap/break due to the engine rocking back and forth, which makes me think that this impacts on the transmission mounts quite a bit too. If this is the case, neoprene rubber replacements are coming to mind.

Sent from the depths of hell.

[jawbraeka]

Mitsubishi mount DEA MT4616





I have also have heard from the wrecker that these have the potential to snap/break due to the engine rocking back and forth, which makes me think that this impacts on the transmission mounts quite a bit too.

Sent from the depths of hell.

Just a small note.. These mounts pictured might differ from the original factory mounts from the Mitsubishi.

There was no mention of where the mounts were broken. my theory is the crease of the arm (where the arm leads off, after the rubber section) snapped off the factory ones as it looks to be the main point of stress due to the lack of strengthening or reinforcement, plus the weight of the engine and the forward/backward motion of acceleration and braking/deceleration.

Sent from the depths of hell.

[jawbraeka]

Here are the pictures of the Capri engine bracket

Top to bottom left


Top to bottom right


Bottom left to bottom right.




Sent from the depths of hell.

[jawbraeka]

Hey.. Finally got my hands on one of these.. What can I say but very chunky (it's made for a 3 litre) and needs the sawzall mod to shorten chassis bolt holes.. Width across the chassis bolts once mod is completed will be about the same distance as the gap itself.

More details later.

Sent from the depths of hell.

[jawbraeka]

OK.. Please hold your laughter as this does look like a 2 year old has drawn this.. But here goes.

Now to explain.. The plate has 3 holes which allows the 3 original b6 engine bracket studs to go through, the two blue studs there are to fit into the new mount as well as the front stud. At this point I will mention that longer studs will be needed for the front and the two new plate studs..

Now you're probably wondering, how is that going allow me to fit the mount?

The answer is to drill two holes into the mount to accommodate the original b6 engine bracket studs whilst the new longer front stud utilizes the front hole on the new mount.

Then from here, cut two slits in the rear of the mount to allow the b6 bracket to be fastened to the new mount with the old b6 bracket nuts.

The last step to making this look all "stock looking" would be to bolt the new studs on first then adjust the inner b6 fasteners.

How do we conceal all this so it looks stock and in one piece?

I would recommend milling the space required out of the bottom of the mount (approximately the thickness of the plate that will be used)..

And I will include the other photos to show what I'm talking about.



Back of the mount to give you an idea of depth.



Difference in spacing between old b6 and new mount and proof front stud will need to be longer..



Just a shot of the other side of the mount.

The only thing I need to verify really is a couple of things here:

With drilling the b6 stud holes into the underside of the new mount, will the new holes that need to be drilled be too close to the new mount holes and cause it to not be a viable option.

The slits needed to fasten the nuts onto the b6 engine bracket interfere with the current holes used by the new studs.

If drilling causes an issue.. I have an alternative plan of attack which will be drilling an additional 2 holes into the plate that will be sitting on the b6 bracket and used to replace the original b6 studs which will be fastened to the plate and keep it sturdy to the b6 bracket and possibly thread the mount to the plate and bracket. Also the slits won't be needed and therefore can be avoided.

To complete the illusion of being stock, just use 3 bolts to match the new stud size and bolt it down..

Will be talking to the engineer soon to get a rough idea of "can this be done?"

Also, fitment for mount will be a little bit so stay tuned for more info.. Shouldn't be too far off..

Sent from the depths of hell.

[jawbraeka]

Just to update, spoke with an engineer, said the better thing to do would be to fill, mill and redrill the mount.

Fill the holes not going to be using rod of metal and locktite them into place.

Mill the circles off the top to give the impression that no modification has occurred.

Redrill new holes for positioning of original b6 engine bracket.

He said the idea of using a plate is a little bit of "going the long way to get from A to B".

In short, I'll be taking the engineers idea and going with that due to the materials and time saving involved.. Also, there'll be less parts for things to go wrong later down the track as well as the fact the mount still remains a mount without having to add a plate or add-on and can be utilized exactly like a "stock" mount.

Sent from the depths of hell.

[jawbraeka]

Spoke to another engineer.. Is toying with the idea of creating a new engine bracket that is customizable to placement too.. It was only a brief meeting and will have to go back to chat a bit more after placement is measured up.

Sent from the depths of hell.