What engine to build

[bhearts]

Now thati have my own beautiful festiva called hartstiva, I'm wanting to make the ultimate festiva project. Fuel aside, I have a megasquirt 3 I'll incorporate. Im in love with the idea of serious head work on a b3, along with some cam and rotating goodies, and jamming some serious boost down its throat. But I think this is the issue when matt was building all his goodies. Why build when you can motor swap. I say why motor swap when you can build and motor swap. I'd love to build a b8, but I can't find much for aftermarket goodies for these engines. The b6 looks like a fun platform, but do people build plain b6s, or are the goods for the b6t. Aren't those bottom ends almost exactly the same, just a better flowing head for the t. The bp seems the most appealing, why doesn't everyone use these? I'm interested in bigger engine for the increase of ease for highway cruising. But sticking with your roots draws me in also, everyone would hate when the get beat by a b3. But I'm really worried about that platform never being enough.

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[bhearts]

I'd also really prefer to do my own head porting and gasket matching. And I'll more than likely build my own manifolds, I think a passenger entrance b8 or bp intake manifold would really simplify that turbo setup.

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[rmoltis]

I say keep it simple and stick with the b3.

The main sticking point would be that engines with smaller bores have higher combustion efficiency.
Main reason being is because, since the bores are so small the time it takes for the flame kernel by the spark plug to ignite the entire mix to the outside edges is faster, less distance to travel.

And what this means is that the timing can be removed bringing the event closer to tdc.
And removing the parasitic loss from advanced timing fighting the piston upstroke.

What this all means is that if you want your turbo car to have the fastest flame front possible you will want to keep your displacement as small as possible.
This will help you extract more power from your platform and will give you good hp from the quick burn.
Add the turbo on top and you got a recipe for greatness!

And given the fact that smaller engines tend to have less reciprocating weight less energy is lost when accelerating.

If it is strictly huge hp numbers you want you may want to go with the larger displacement engines.
But personally I think a robust b3 would satisfy my need for power.
And it would retain the parts compatability.

Also I think the b3 modified would make a great street car.
It would have enough power to zip around when needed.
Yet it would still maintain decent mpgs.
Just my .02ç

[bhearts]

My buddy zephthechef who is a member here is building some sort of monster Buick supercharged platform. Before he upgraded fuel pumps, which he was currently running methanol through, mixed water in with his methanol in the tank, and ran that through his fuel system. The stainless steel injectors he had seemed to work fine with that mixture. That sounds like a viable option when adding secondary injectors to an engine for on boost only applications. 100 percent tunable water methanol injection. I think he was using maybe 20 percent water by volume. Everyone uses water meth injection already, so that's not terribly out there or different of an idea. Come off boost fuel gets switched back to pump gas. That'd also help with the cold start up issues related to alcohol main fuels. A water methanol pump should suffice for medium pressure, 60 to 70psi regulated fuel injection applications. So there's really no worry about rusting fuel pumps.

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[bhearts]

I'm really down for any amount of complex engine building, I just have to draw the line when it comes to mid engine or v6 swaps. I really don't want to fabricate a engine in place, and make the car custom around the engine. I'd prefer all my time put into engine performance. Obviously I'll back a great engine with a great transmition.

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[M3NTAL]

LS swap it...don't be scared.

[bhearts]

That terrifies me though. I do not have the mental capacity to comprehend a complex motor swap. I'm an electronics tech by trade. Not a mechanic. But my quality assurance is high, which would allow for perfectionist quality motor building.

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[bhearts]

I really want to hear from Charlie.

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[bhazard]

8v B6...fits in the bay without bashing frame rails. Simple valvetrain. More displacement than a B3 in the same package. And well 90+ whp in a NA B3 has been proven, so I would imagine the extra displacement would help that much more.

[bhearts]

Besides what Matt offers. Does anyone sell pistons and rods for b6. Or even the b8

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[M3NTAL]

Real street performance is where I got my pistons and rods for my B6T

[bhearts]

I checked it their parts listings. It looks like the bp parts are compatible with the b6t parts? That's all they had listed for piston and rods, for the bp.

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[bhearts]

do you guys really believe in needing upgraded pistons and rods. my mechanic friend says that forged internals are for people that plan on encountering knock. but hes also running methanol. with appropriate water methanol injection cooling, and proper tuning, is burning holes in your pistons actually a thing?

[bhearts]

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=109/category_id=13/mode=prod/prd109.htm

[bhearts]

this article says that youll really only need forged rods if you plan on spinning your engine to higher rpms. which i can understand, its all about the kinetic energy. but as long as you could maintain a zero knock environment, there really isnt a chance for break stuff at factory rpm levels. besides normal wear and tear and age related breakage. brand new oem pistons and rods should suffice. does anyone have any technical experience to back this up either way?