Dual Valve springs!

[bondo]

What you guys think? do I need this if Im going to run a turbo? Or would it be a good idea to get? thanks!http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supertech-Du...#ht_3607wt_758

[Rocketman]

Not necessary if you're adding a turbo. If you're adding aftermarket cams, balancing the engine, port/valvework & raising the overall RPM limit then yes worth looking into.

Check reviews on these though, that seems cheap? Maybe im out of the loop. Red flag when they say chrome "Silicone" vanadium steel. Silicone goes in boobs, silicon is a metal used in alloys

[M3NTAL]

Buy them from Jay Meagher at Real Street

http://realstreetperformance.com/Shop-by-Engine/Valvesprings-Retainers_11/Supertech-Miata-BP-1-8L-74lb-Dual-Valvesprings-Retainers-Kit.html

[bondo]

Thanks rocketman! I kinda wanted to up my rev limit to 8000rpm. But idk if need to, And mental do you have these in your car? is your head built?

[TominMO]

Thanks rocketman! I kinda wanted to up my rev limit to 8000rpm.

Seems like you'd have a broken motor pretty quick if you revved it to 8K on a regular basis. They were never designed to perform that way.

[Rocketman]

The oil pumps become a weak spot at high power levels and/or RPM levels. The BP can be made to do 8k reliably, but you're better off focusing your powerband down lower

[M3NTAL]

I have 1mm oversized stainless valves in my head, no port work or cams. My builder recommended the stainless valves so i trusted him

[bondo]

alright thanks! and so for better lower power band I would want a smaller turbo right?

[Bert]

I built a 3/4 race overhead valve engine with better pistons and cam, and installed dual valve springs 40 years ago. Got me an extra 2500 rpm but shortened the engine life considerably. The valves were burnt every couple of thousand miles and upgrade sodium-filled versions were way out of my budget. A lot of engineering and upgrade specialized parts are needed in order to gain a couple of thousand rpm and still retain a reliable engine. To me this is where displacement proves to be cheapest option in the long run; a factory 1.8 will stay together for a long time and get you 100+ hp but a 100hp 1.3 B3 will either cost a fortune to build and/or strictly be a short term proposition.

[M3NTAL]

Bondo check out this thread!

http://m.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=26641&styleid=22

[fuddrucker]

Buy them from Jay Meagher at Real Street

http://realstreetperformance.com/Sho...iners-Kit.html

I was thinking after looking over this .. Would they also be ideal for the b6 too?