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Rust Dilemma

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  • Rust Dilemma

    well for my upcoming build (this summer)i thought i would strip out my interior to see the condition of the body well i already known that i had rust but not to this extent so i'm in dilemma "to build or not to build, that is the question" ,come sometime in May im getting a $1k lincoln welder with my income taxes so ill have a good welder to help me fix it


    so it started out good not too bad
    IMAG0010[1].jpg
    rear strut towers in almost perfect condition
    IMAG0015[1].jpg IMAG0016[1].jpg
    but then it starts getting bad just behind the pass. side rear stut tower we hit our first snag not too bad, easily fixable
    IMAG0012[1].jpg
    then we start heading forward in the car the faint hearted might want to skip these pictures, first we head just behind the driver side seat alittle harder to fix but not impossible
    IMAG0020[2].jpg
    we start with the passenger side i think cool the hole looks small then
    IMAG0013[1].jpg
    BAMM crap get real
    IMAG0014[1].jpg
    then i start to think,i've lived in northern ohio for the most part of my life and the driver side is always worse when it come to rust because it gets attacked from salt and water from both sides of the floor pan well i was right the driver side was worse (it went up the side a lot farther)
    IMAG0017[1].jpg
    well that all the photos i have the whole reason im debating fixing it is because i already bought the bigger motor (not disclosing which one yet you'll have to wait for that ) also a turbo and tranny, every time i try to debate if its worth it or not the only answer i can come back to is "FESTIVA JUST FESTIVA"
    88 L carb'ed (when up in flames of glory)(deceased) 4spd
    89 L carb'ed (died on the operating table (rust))(deceased) 5spd
    93 gl FI (sold) automagical
    89 lx FI megasquirted "luna" b6D+t (186hp 209ftlbs)
    88 L carbFI megasquirted zombie car

  • #2
    common any advise is it worth saving ,another thing is i kinda bet my brother $100 that i could beat him in a 1/4 mile this summer he drives a dodge intrepid bone stock(should run 16's if i researched right) so looks like the rust will set me back and loose some money lol oh well with the motor and turbo i picked i should make in the low 200hp but it might never see my festi's body
    88 L carb'ed (when up in flames of glory)(deceased) 4spd
    89 L carb'ed (died on the operating table (rust))(deceased) 5spd
    93 gl FI (sold) automagical
    89 lx FI megasquirted "luna" b6D+t (186hp 209ftlbs)
    88 L carbFI megasquirted zombie car

    Comment


    • #3
      Sorry , but I'd get a new body .
      New build on the way .

      Comment


      • #4
        ya i was afraid of that but finding a good body in the north is almost impossible
        88 L carb'ed (when up in flames of glory)(deceased) 4spd
        89 L carb'ed (died on the operating table (rust))(deceased) 5spd
        93 gl FI (sold) automagical
        89 lx FI megasquirted "luna" b6D+t (186hp 209ftlbs)
        88 L carbFI megasquirted zombie car

        Comment


        • #5
          I say as long as your fine with the car not looking factory or good looking ever again, cut the rest of that rust out and make it into a fast rat rod esque festy with some crude but functional patches. Basically what I am doing with my rusty festy. Or just find something out of the ordinary to do to it. Then let people's egos deflate like a woopie cushion when you decimate them between stop lights with what looks like a complete piece of crap.
          Last edited by TorqueEffect; 04-26-2015, 03:23 PM.
          1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
          2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
          1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

          Comment


          • #6
            ^i like your idea the whole point of a fast festi at least for me is to make a bad ass sleeper anyway and i have no problem with a non factory look
            88 L carb'ed (when up in flames of glory)(deceased) 4spd
            89 L carb'ed (died on the operating table (rust))(deceased) 5spd
            93 gl FI (sold) automagical
            89 lx FI megasquirted "luna" b6D+t (186hp 209ftlbs)
            88 L carbFI megasquirted zombie car

            Comment


            • #7
              All the spots shown are not visible once your interior is back in. Therefor I say patch it up. It doesn't have to look like a beauty queen under the carpet.
              Other than the wheel well, everything is flat. I had to patch my drivers floor in the same spot when I first got it.
              What better way to break in that new welder you are getting.
              Whoa, that was fun!

              Comment


              • #8
                I would do some more digging and make sure it's not worse. Most of the time it will rust from the inside out. This is just packed together sheet metal and by time it shows it on the out side the inside could look like mine.
                This one heading to the scraper and I do autobody for a living .
                Is it fixable sure is it worth it. . No way.
                Last edited by william; 04-26-2015, 05:18 PM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I just picked up a new car when I encounter a similar amount of rust on my project car. I could have fixed it but I'm not really into body work and already have other cars to fix rust on. Clean festiva bodies aren't unbelievably expensive, however they are a little rare in the mid-west. If you just want to go drag racing occasionally you could probably just patch up the holes pretty well and call it a day. Also if you plan to continue to drive the car in the winter I would just patch it up since no matter what you do it's going to end up rusting.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Imagine the rust we'll have to deal with fixing if we want to drive a Festiva in another 15 -20 years. I say patch it up. This is the perfect first job for your new $1k welder.
                    '89L 110k mi. BP/G swapped
                    '90LX 68k mi. wrecked 12/14 RIP
                    '90 F250 4X4 108K mi.
                    '13 Kia Rio 5 LX 70k mi.
                    '18 Kia Soul 40k mi. Daily
                    '64 Studebaker Gran Turismo Hawk
                    '66 International Harvester pickup

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                    • #11
                      Wow I thought my rust was bad. Just Fix it, all you have to do is make it better/safer than it is now and its fine. Like everyone said, its under the carpet and behind the bumper.
                      Tommy

                      WannaBimmer Build in Progress:
                      http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...-Festiva-Build

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        It's well worth it to travel south to find a clean body. At least to me.
                        91GL BP/F3A with boost
                        13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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                        • #13
                          If I were you I'd restart with a solid shell, even if you fix all that rust its likely, almost certain there's rust inside other places that hasn't made it to the surface yet like others said. I'd save all the good parts for spares and put time into a solid shell.
                          -93' L BP swap/e-series, coilovers, RIO front swap, redrilled festy drums, Miata 14" 7 spokes.
                          -88' Mazda 323 SE, work in progress..
                          -85' Nissan Sentra 5 spd.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            A guy I used to do autocross with liked to race VW rabbit GTIs. He would purposely look for rusty cars because they were lighter. He was an odd duck, but he was fast, so I couldn't argue with his theory.

                            I would build a cage in the car that supported all the important structural parts. Then replace the rusty floor with aluminum. Don't use rivets though, they tend to pop out randomly and make sparks when you activate your second bottle of nitrous and shift onto 13th gear. I saw that happen in Fast and the Furious 1. It looked pretty scary.
                            Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              ^if that happens when activating the second bottle imaging what would happen with a third and i thought it had 15 gears lol but on a serous note i thing what i'm going to do about the rust is dig into it as much as i can and replace as much as possible and then find some one to make me a roll cage just for extra support just in case i miss something for now on the cars isn't a winter car anymore(got my 4X4 bronco for that) i tried driving it this past winter and well lest just say it makes a better sled that a car in the snow and ice
                              88 L carb'ed (when up in flames of glory)(deceased) 4spd
                              89 L carb'ed (died on the operating table (rust))(deceased) 5spd
                              93 gl FI (sold) automagical
                              89 lx FI megasquirted "luna" b6D+t (186hp 209ftlbs)
                              88 L carbFI megasquirted zombie car

                              Comment

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