How to Optimize Engine systems stock 89 Festiva 4 sp_105,000 mi_top speed 92_31 mpg

[blowby]

- I'm replacing carb with Weber 32/36 Samurai kit - also about 1300cc - using rocketman's adapter - jetting.
- Blocking off PCV system
- Installing an MSD ignition because I bought one 20 yrs. ago and never used it - will I actually be able to tell a difference - and I thought I'd use the stock coil.
- New plug wires

Need recommendations for the best approach to put together an exhaust system for best performance but a stock noise level. Increase pipe dia. ?? replace cat. converter with small muffler and still use back muffler of some sort ?? any consensus on what to do for the best running engine ??

Recommendation for whether cooler air to the carb has an impact - vs - air cleaner that comes with Weber kit sucking engine compartment air. It's hot in Florida and it looks like the stock snorkel air cleaner might fit on the Weber Samurai air cleaner adapter - to draw in outside air from over by the headlight - maybe it's a little restrictive. Has anybody tested that and felt any results?

Any recommendations for the distributor besides a T between the 2 vacuum lines ? Any spring changes ? Any curve changes work? Stock timing the best for safe running?

I bought this car brand new and now I'm just looking for a smooth, responsive, powerful, semi stock, 1300cc engine - 27 years later.

With Mobile 1 and a new paint job - it'll be the perfect grocery getter.

Will I be able to hit 102 mph ?

Thanks

[FestYboy]

Use the PVC as is, don't block it. 1.75" exhaust diameter is all you need. Add a resonator, and a thrush turbo 2 muffler. Run 6-8* advance on the dizzy and do not T the vac tubes, that's your advance adjuster, in addition to the springs. Change your coil, the stock one is weak. Use standard copper core plugs, no platinum BS.

In all reality, the factory systems will get you over 100 if it's all working properly.

[drddan]

and do not T the vac tubes, that's your advance adjuster

Ok ... WHY? I was told to add the "T" ... which really didn't make sense, but what SHOULD be done with the 2 vacuums? One metered, one not???
Also was suggested to add a single port advance, by Bravekosak

How 'bout some o" dat Festyboy knowledge!?

[Greywolf]

I second the vote NOT to ruin the PCV system, it does a lot more good than most people realize, and so long is the idle jets are set right you won't notice it.

You want the PCV to pull a vacuum on the engine so that any blow-by around the rings is drawn out. The gasses that get by the rings are one of the number one engine killers imaginable!

On serious high compression race engines what is sometimes done is to route the crank case gasses to a venture tube installed in one of the exhaust headers, but only because they sometimes have so much blowby as a result of compression, turbo or supercharging, and trick fuel that the amount of gas flow is greater than a normal PCV can handle. You shouldn't have a problem.

It's also a good idea to replace the PCV valve with a new one, so that you know it isn't stuck open or closed.

*And yes, I know that most PCV systems have a vent filter on the opposite cylinder bank on V8's, with a similar arrangement on smaller engines to let fresh air in. I suppose I should have said "Create a flow" rather than "Pull a vacuum", but you get the idea.

The PCV valve itself is what meters the amount of flow into the intake, and that is why it should be in good condition.

[ryanprins13]

May i ask why you wanted to block off the pcv system?
I dont know anything about carbed engines so i cant help there, but i second the advice to stick with copper plugs, just dont forget to gap them and change them on time. I forgot my copper ones for 130,000km or so and the porcelain broke off one and scored the cylinder...
Fastest i have ever gone in a festiva with 12in tires is 110mph down a really big hill. Funny thing was half way down i was doing 106, and it took the rest of the way to get to 110. Seemed to be my top speed. I would never do that again with 12 in tires that are 15-20years old though, lol. What do you have for tires?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FestYboy]

Ok ... WHY? I was told to add the "T" ... which really didn't make sense, but what SHOULD be done with the 2 vacuums? One metered, one not???
Also was suggested to add a single port advance, by Bravekosak

How 'bout some o" dat Festyboy knowledge!?

The UN metered is for standard engine operation, and the metered is for accessories load IIRC. "T"ING them defeats the purpose of the load control circuit and may cause premature advance at low rpm (ping city).

[bravekozak]

You will get varnishing or perhaps worse if you disconnect the PCV.
Check to make sure the PCV passages vehind the valve cover baffle aren't plugged with twenty five years of crud.

[blowby]

[QUOTE=ryanprins13;715856]May i ask why you wanted to block off the pcv system?
I dont know anything about carbed engines so i cant help there, but i second the advice to stick with copper plugs, just dont forget to gap them and change them on time. I forgot my copper ones for 130,000km or so and the porcelain broke off one and scored the cylinder...
Fastest i have ever gone in a festiva with 12in tires is 110mph down a really big hill. Funny thing was half way down i was doing 106, and it took the rest of the way to get to 110. Seemed to be my top speed. I would never do that again with 12 in tires that are 15-20years old though, lol. What do you have for tires?



I meant to say EGR - oops - but Greywolf - thanks for the info. Is the blow-by - (compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture) - what forms so called acids I remember hearing about years ago as a reason for low oil change intervals? Are acids in fact, the by product?

I hit 92mph at about 30,000 miles. The second time I tried it was at about 80,000 miles and I was at about 90mph when I had to shut it down because of traffic. It really didn't seem like there was any more left cause it was floored for a while. Nice day both times - in Maryland - probably mid to upper eighties. Flat and level was important to me for my little speed test. I knew it was the carb.

I cringed the first time I saw the rats nest on that feed back carb. My Weber 32/36 will be here tomorrow so I'm hoping rocketman will let us know about the adapters.

As tires go - Yokahamas are going on at $55 each + $23 each to mount and bal - "S" speed rating - max 112mph

[blowby]

Is that crud you're referring to from no oil changes. After 6000 miles and 2 oil changes my Festy got Mobile 1. I hope I don't have any crud. Are there other things to consider?

[blowby]

kozak
Is that varnishing in high heat oil passages - and is that from not changing your oil or no PCV - or what?

[ryanprins13]

How to Optimize Engine systems stock 89 Festiva 4 sp_105,000 mi_top speed 92_31 mpg

Short oci's in years past were from a combination of poor crankcase ventilation, poorer oil and poorer engine design. Without having blow-by drawn out it settles on and mixes with the oil causing it to become acidic faster and depleting other additives. When your blow by is drawn out right away it doesnt have as much time to un-atomize and mix with the oil. Moisture is also drawn out. If your oil is changed on time you typically only get varnish on parts that are not continually bathed or splashed with oil-so your oil galleries are fine. If you dont change your oil often enough or you cook it really bad a lot of it will evaporate and the thicker stuff thats left will start sticking and clumping to things. Then you have to use a high detergent oil, atf or engine flush to get the junk out.
Back to the pcv stuff- oils have additives to offset acids, because you dont want the oil to become acidic. Typically a measurement of 8-12 TBN on an analysis. Total base number. When you send in used oil for analysis they measure the TBN to see whats left and also the total acid number. When the base number drops to about 2 or so it has lost its ability to neutralize acid. Or when the acid content is greater than the base content the oil is done. So obviously the less acid the oil is in contact with the better, and the longer it lasts. And yes, blow-by is acidic.
And now i am curious- what type o mobile 1 did you use? Mobile 1 ESP 0w30 has an incredibly low tbn of 6.3. Most non-synthetics are higher than that! But their AFE 0w30 has a tbn of 9.1 which is alright. I dont know why the difference, but they dont list the evaporative loss on the page i looked at unfortunately.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FestYboy]

I took a 250k+ mile festy with the factory carb and 8* advance over 100 (according to the tach). Granted it had a full tune up (plugs wires cap rotor modified air lid) and would idle smoothly below 300 rpm (not a typo).

I'm talking about Scrappy... And it was repeatable. Then he got swapped.

[blowby]

Short oci's in years past were from a combination of poor crankcase ventilation, poorer oil and poorer engine design. Without having blow-by drawn out it settles on and mixes with the oil causing it to become acidic faster and depleting other additives. When your blow by is drawn out right away it doesnt have as much time to un-atomize and mix with the oil. Moisture is also drawn out. If your oil is changed on time you typically only get varnish on parts that are not continually bathed or splashed with oil-so your oil galleries are fine. If you dont change your oil often enough or you cook it really bad a lot of it will evaporate and the thicker stuff thats left will start sticking and clumping to things. Then you have to use a high detergent oil, atf or engine flush to get the junk out.
Back to the pcv stuff- oils have additives to offset acids, because you dont want the oil to become acidic. Typically a measurement of 8-12 TBN on an analysis. Total base number. When you send in used oil for analysis they measure the TBN to see whats left and also the total acid number. When the base number drops to about 2 or so it has lost its ability to neutralize acid. Or when the acid content is greater than the base content the oil is done. So obviously the less acid the oil is in contact with the better, and the longer it lasts. And yes, blow-by is acidic.
And now i am curious- what type o mobile 1 did you use? Mobile 1 ESP 0w30 has an incredibly low tbn of 6.3. Most non-synthetics are higher than that! But their AFE 0w30 has a tbn of 9.1 which is alright. I dont know why the difference, but they dont list the evaporative loss on the page i looked at unfortunately.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've used Mobile 1 10w40 (getting harder to find at W-mart) for over 100,000 miles - changed every 7 to 10,000 mi ........ hope I haven't had an acid problem.

Mobil 1 won't cook off and thicken. I think it's high detergent and also able to handle much higher heat. Regular oil will last 30 min at 230* and Mobile 1 will operate continuously at 275* -- which is very hot oil. I think most passenger cars operate at < 200* F -- race cars about 220* to 230* F.

[blowby]

Use the PVC as is, don't block it. 1.75" exhaust diameter is all you need. Add a resonator, and a thrush turbo 2 muffler. Run 6-8* advance on the dizzy and do not T the vac tubes, that's your advance adjuster, in addition to the springs. Change your coil, the stock one is weak. Use standard copper core plugs, no platinum BS.

In all reality, the factory systems will get you over 100 if it's all working properly.

Good 1.75" pipe but resonator and turbo 2 don't seem like quiet or even close to stock noise level. What am I shooting for here - no back pressure or does it have to be louder to run well? This is a stock Festy with a weber. Besides I can't stand a loud 4 cylinder - or loud in general - but I would accept a little more noise if required for a "67" 302 Z28 @ 7000 rpm ......... from the factory mind you - with solids and roller rockers ........... whew .......... I just love the EPA and "cry baby soccer moms"

[FestYboy]

The thrush turbo 2 muffler is rather quiet (not a fart can) and the resonator is there to help with the highway droan.
If you're looking for OEM sound levels, maybe an 80 series magnaflow would be better, but not sure if it will fit in the allotted space (the thrush will).