Originally posted by bhearts
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how much power can you get out of a 1.3
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I would use the lower intake manifold and build a plenum on it. It's quite the complex shape and the ports start at 1.22 and taper down to 1.1 at the head. Which should really help off boost torque. Boost doesn't really care about intake restrictions. Hence why turbo builds rarely worry about bigger throttle bodies.Originally posted by beazo View PostThat's a really good idea, that would really neaten up the engine bay as well.
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It sounds like matt d is going to be the man to talk to, haha. The only way I've seen to contact him is on facebook though. And I'm not even going to entertain the cost of an overseas phone call, haha.Originally posted by TominMO View PostAs far as cam work--when Matt D did the cams in my 1.3 and 1.6, he had to go to manually-adjusted rockers for clearance, because of the extra lobe lift he designed in. Also, my motors are now interference motors, for that reason. For most people, I would recommend keeping the lobe profile stock, which lets you retain the HLAs if you have them. Depending on how much power you wanted, you could still go to larger valves for more flow, but that's where you start dumping $$$ into the project. A simple valve job and cleanup of the combustion chambers, and the intake and exhaust runners, would give a lot of bang for buck. Then turbo that. You could just slap a turbo on a completely stock motor, for sure, and it would be great fun; but you'd be even happier with some basic-level head work.
Fuel mileage will not suffer much or at all, if you are just cruising on the hwy, depending on your turbo choice. I had Greg use one that kept me out of boost until about 3000 RPM, so I could drive non-boosted normally, and just use the turbo for when I needed maximum acceleration.
Like every stop sign.....:-)
Might have to join Facebook just to contact him.
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As far as cam work--when Matt D did the cams in my 1.3 and 1.6, he had to go to manually-adjusted rockers for clearance, because of the extra lobe lift he designed in. Also, my motors are now interference motors, for that reason. For most people, I would recommend keeping the lobe profile stock, which lets you retain the HLAs if you have them. Depending on how much power you wanted, you could still go to larger valves for more flow, but that's where you start dumping $$$ into the project. A simple valve job and cleanup of the combustion chambers, and the intake and exhaust runners, would give a lot of bang for buck. Then turbo that. You could just slap a turbo on a completely stock motor, for sure, and it would be great fun; but you'd be even happier with some basic-level head work.Originally posted by beazo View Posthttp://www.precisionintl.com/Categor...el=&Engine=498
This is the page for the cam. Not really a great deal of info on here, so will have to contact them and see what the deal is. But if those prices are accurate, then I'll have to give it a try,
Fuel mileage will not suffer much or at all, if you are just cruising on the hwy, depending on your turbo choice. I had Greg use one that kept me out of boost until about 3000 RPM, so I could drive non-boosted normally, and just use the turbo for when I needed maximum acceleration.
Like every stop sign.....:-)Last edited by TominMO; 05-23-2016, 08:05 PM.
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Do a intercooler on your intake kind of thing. Water to air intercooling that is. Like mine, but prettier

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This is the page for the cam. Not really a great deal of info on here, so will have to contact them and see what the deal is. But if those prices are accurate, then I'll have to give it a try,
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There is an equation over here with hill climb racing, that states if you turbo your car for racing,you must multiply the engine capacity by 1.7, so you can be placed in the correct engine class. Whilst this isn't an equation for power, i just thaought it was worth mentioning, as the numbers are very similar. Lol.Originally posted by TominMO View PostNot an equation, just experience from dynoing. Greg/eurotiva stuck a stock B6 SOHC in my Festy, and then rear-turboed it. Stock WHP for a B6 is ~71, assuming a 10% driveline loss. It dynoed at 111 WHP. I had axed him to keep it down to 10 PSI for reliability.
As for cam/hla set up. I found a company (in the US i think) called dinotec, apparently they can cater a cam package suited to the b3.
I'll have to look into it further, but it seems promising.
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Nothing wrong with a rear mounted turbo, been tried and proven many times over. Just get yourself a good exhaust to feed the bugger and you should be sweet to just run a pipe straight to the throttlte body. The length of the pipe will act as a cooler for yourcharged air.Originally posted by firebush357 View PostAwesome. Keep us updated on how it goes, My little brother wants to Turbo his but I told him it would probably be easier to do a Rear Mounted Turbo because we are not Machinist...
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Not an equation, just experience from dynoing. Greg/eurotiva stuck a stock B6 SOHC in my Festy, and then rear-turboed it. Stock WHP for a B6 is ~71, assuming a 10% driveline loss. It dynoed at 111 WHP. I had axed him to keep it down to 10 PSI for reliability.Originally posted by firebush357 View PostHow did you come up with this equation?Last edited by TominMO; 05-23-2016, 09:49 AM.
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How did you come up with this equation? wanwOriginally posted by TominMO View PostYou can keep the HLAs if you are not going with a cam profile that is so tall that you need more clearance. So stock cam, no problem.
If I turboed my B3 to 10 PSI, multiplying 85 HP x 1.6, I would expect to get 136 HP at the wheels.
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You can keep the HLAs if you are not going with a cam profile that is so tall that you need more clearance. So stock cam, no problem.
If I turboed my B3 to 10 PSI, multiplying 85 HP x 1.6, I would expect to get 136 HP at the wheels.
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Awesome. Keep us updated on how it goes, My little brother wants to Turbo his but I told him it would probably be easier to do a Rear Mounted Turbo because we are not Machinist...
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Ah, yeah, in Australia we just call them lifters, hence the confusion.
Yeah, I'll be moving to solid state "lash adjusters" or lifters.
As for cam, i don't know where I'll get one off the shelf. Still researching that one.
And I'll hopefully be stripping the engine down this weekend.
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Hydraulic lash adjusters. Are you hoping to buy an aftermarket cam or wondering where to get one custom made? Sounds like its going to be an awesome build! When do you plan to start?Originally posted by beazo View PostNot sure what hla's are man, sorry.
As for oil, it will be running a seperate oil system, with electric pump and seperate return and cooler.
My manifolds will both be custom to suit the application, and as for cam, i am still investigating where to get one, specifically with a longer duration, as I am happy with the lift on the standard cam, just want it to be opening the valves for a little longer.
Cheers for the well wishes man.
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