Originally posted by FestYboy
					
						
						
							
							
							
							
								
								
								
								
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B6T vs. BP
				
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Little to nothing is known of this technology, so it's diagnosis can be troublesome. Lol.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Pics or it didn't happen. Haha. I guess a little bit down low goes a long way up at the intake runners. I'd still prefer to move the engine forward, as this is a great upgrade in stability and turn in.Originally posted by william View PostFestiva fred has a bp and e no fire wall bashing and I can stick my hand between the intake and firewall. He rotated the engine forward some with the front mount and some with the crossmember and it fits great.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Time to get a real transmission, Brad... Like a man.
							
						Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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Couldnt you just cut a chunk out of the sway bar in the middle-half way between the sway bar to rad support mounts and weld flanges on each end and put a bearing in the middle so that each can move independantly but they cant come apart or splay out when force is applied? Or is that type of thing not what your aiming for?Originally posted by FestYboy View PostStill think de-coupling the sway bar will be the most elegant solution for full articulation... Something to start for the new year.
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Thats exactly what I'm after. Size of the de-couple comes into play now... I doubt that there is a pre-engineered out there that foots the bill, so I'll have to make one.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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In theory, except the bar is not straight in the center (therefore the pivot you've created isn't on centerline with the bar pivot) and it is designed in such a fashion that it uses the bend raduis to restrain the bar from moving side to side. This could get complicated if the bar is altered. If the bar is allowed to shift left or right it throws the alignment off and causes TQ steer and brake steer issues.Originally posted by ryanprins13 View PostCouldnt you just cut a chunk out of the sway bar in the middle-half way between the sway bar to rad support mounts and weld flanges on each end and put a bearing in the middle so that each can move independantly but they cant come apart or splay out when force is applied? Or is that type of thing not what your aiming for?
Sent from my SM-G920W8 using TapatalkLast edited by Advancedynamix; 12-26-2016, 01:21 PM.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Ok. I think i understand. How about this then: chop the sway bar just on the inside of each sway bar to rad support mount and welding a washer on the outer side and a plate on the inner side of the bar where it goes though the mount. Tight So that one rubs the one side of the poly sway bar bushing and the other rubs the other side. That way the sway bar would be decoupled but couldnt move anywhere except to pivot with the suspension.Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostIn theory, except the bar is not straight in the center (therefore the pivot you've created isn't on centerline with the bar pivot) and it is designed in such a fashion that it uses the bend raduis to restrain the bar from moving side to side. This could get complicated if the bar is altered. If the bar is allowed to shift left or right it throws the alignment off and causes TQ steer and brake steer issues.
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That would allow way too much twist and deflection, which in turn changes the dynamic geometry... Bad things happen. Also, the sway bar is the only piece that puts power to the chassis.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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^what Arty said. Also, welding sway bars (or any structural member that is formed from spring steel) is not a good idea. All steel becomes more brittle around a weld joint, but spring steel is effected more than most.
The best way to address this issue (in my opinion) is to mimic the 2001-2005 kia Rio. The Rio had trailing links and a separate sway bar. Unfortunately, the Rio links are a bit too long to use on a Festiva without some creativity. Custom bars and Rio bushings would be a great solution.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Can't use the heim joint. Too much shock load into a solid mount. What you have pictured is almost there, save for the lack of bushings.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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