CV axle swap

[Jdcas1224]

So I've been in the process of lifting my '93 festiva, got the rear done, the front is 90% there but I guess 3 1/2 inches was a hair to much for the CV axles, I was wondering if there was another vehicle I can swap shafts with, while keeping the original knuckles in the hub.

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[Eviljimchicken]

I think aspire axles are a bit longer

[Jdcas1224]

I think aspire axles are a bit longer

I've got a buddy that has one I'll measure when I can track him down thanks!

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[firebush357]

There is a chart somewhere on here that shows the spline count and length of a few different vehicles CV Axles. iirc the inner axle spline count is different on the Festivas than any other of the Mazda/Kia vehicles.

EDIT:
I was incorrect, the Festiva and Aspire are the same spline count but looks like Aspire is only about 1/4" longer on each side. Here is some more info on Axles

[Jdcas1224]

There is a chart somewhere on here that shows the spline count and length of a few different vehicles CV Axles. iirc the inner axle spline count is different on the Festivas than any other of the Mazda/Kia vehicles.

EDIT:
I was incorrect, the Festiva and Aspire are the same spline count but looks like Aspire is only about 1/4" longer on each side. Here is some more info on Axles

I was also told lowering the sub frame a hair will get me closer. I was thinking of taking the ends off and swapping just the shaft but I'm afraid that would come down to trial and error, and I just don't have the money to be busting CV axles apart

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[firebush357]

So you could lower the entire engine, trans, cross member and sway bar to make up for the difference but they seems like a little too much effort. You could cut the CVs, add what length you need from an old axle then weld, grind, sleeve it and then weld again for strength.

Or you could just take an inch or two out of the lift...

[Jdcas1224]

So you could lower the entire engine, trans, cross member and sway bar to make up for the difference but they seems like a little too much effort. You could cut the CVs, add what length you need from an old axle then weld, grind, sleeve it and then weld again for strength.

Or you could just take an inch or two out of the lift...

There's no more sway bar. But worse case scenario I drop the lift a hair

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[firebush357]

The more you drop the lift, the more metal you will have to move to make the tire fit. If it comes to that be careful on how much metal you move around the hinges of the doors. I learned the hard way, moved too much on the passenger side and had to install spacers on the hinges to make the door be able to close again and you still have to slam it lol.

[firebush357]

So I was just asking some of the guys from the Forum about the Sway Bar delete and so far the consensus is that is is probably a bad idea unless you have something else setup to help control the movement of the LCAs. Just an fyi

[Jdcas1224]

So I was just asking some of the guys from the Forum about the Sway Bar delete and so far the consensus is that is is probably a bad idea unless you have something else setup to help control the movement of the LCAs. Just an fyi

Yeah I found out the control arm gets alot of stability from the sway bar, I have a bad bushing on one side but the other side has no movement. After I get the CV axle situated I'll see if a bushing takes care of the play

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[Jdcas1224]

The more you drop the lift, the more metal you will have to move to make the tire fit. If it comes to that be careful on how much metal you move around the hinges of the doors. I learned the hard way, moved too much on the passenger side and had to install spacers on the hinges to make the door be able to close again and you still have to slam it lol.

I'm going to try to get the 26-11's to fit with some spacers and offest wheels. If not I have some 9's to put under it. It's 3 more inches of tire compared to the 155's on it now so fingers crossed

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[ricko1966]

The problem is it is a stabilizer not a sway bar it is the third link on the lower control arm and locates the front to rear location of the control arm. I do not know why you are having a problem with it but you cannot eliminate it without fabbing some sort of third link running to the front of the car. A threaded rod some bushings a coupled brackets and a heim joint would do but why?

Yeah I found out the control arm gets alot of stability from the sway bar, I have a bad bushing on one side but the other side has no movement. After I get the CV axle situated I'll see if a bushing takes care of the play

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[Jdcas1224]

The problem is it is a stabilizer not a sway bar it is the third link on the lower control arm and locates the front to rear location of the control arm. I do not know why you are having a problem with it but you cannot eliminate it without fabbing some sort of third link running to the front of the car. A threaded rod some bushings a coupled brackets and a heim joint would do but why?

The sway bar hit the CV axle after the lift. I didn't know why I couldn't lower the hub any further until I seen the sway bar. I'm wanting to run a bracket behind the control arm to stabilize it though. Lol it did lose alot of stability though

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[firebush357]

So the CV axles are long enough?

[ricko1966]

Ok now I understand Without looking at your exact sitch. I would say fab a bracket to go over and under the axle basically a triangle that bolts solid to the lower control arm then a tube and a couple of threaded rod ends{hiem joints} and a simple bracket in the front stupid simple ,stupid easy and completly effective.

The sway bar hit the CV axle after the lift. I didn't know why I couldn't lower the hub any further until I seen the sway bar. I'm wanting to run a bracket behind the control arm to stabilize it though. Lol it did lose alot of stability though

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