Its not sparking when it should but i'm not completely surprised. I haven't looked too far into it yet but when I hooked my timing light up it did not illuminate. I verified the function of the light on my truck but called it a night shortly after.
Pretty sure I do not have the ignition output set up properly, i'm going through the whole hardware manual again today just to double check everything.
2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd
Alright I finally have some time to work on the car and I am still unable to get spark. I have approx. 600 ohms between pin 36 (ignition out) and the coil connector, is this normal?. Voltage at the coil connector is very close to the battery voltage on the hot side. I know the coil is good because it ran perfect last week on the factory ECU.
Edit: upon looking at the harness and checking over the schematic, it seems that I am currently plugged into the blu-org wire that comes off the “ignition module” on the distributor. However, the yel-grn wire that is usually associated with the “STI” connects directly to the coil. Should I be using this as my connection?
This is that part where I send my Megasquirt down to Linfert in Florida and have Carlos build me a COP harness and just pay a couple hundred bucks out for something guaranteed to work
91GL BP/F3A with boost
13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's
The yellow/green coming off the coil is the rpm signal for the tach. The Megasquirt should be wired to trigger the ignition module. What kind of circuit did you build for coil control? It should be a 5v "logic" circuit not and high current low side trigger if you're still using the ignition module. I think it's page 77 of the manual.
The yellow/green coming off the coil is the rpm signal for the tach. The Megasquirt should be wired to trigger the ignition module. What kind of circuit did you build for coil control? It should be a 5v "logic" circuit not and high current low side trigger if you're still using the ignition module. I think it's page 77 of the manual.
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I’ll give it a look, I currently have it set up for a single high current output.
2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd
That's your problem then. The ignition module fires the coil when it gets a 5v signal. Disconnect the ignition module and jump the y/gn to the bl/o in the ignition module connector and see if you have spark.
Worked perfect, she fired right up last night! Still need to set timing and finish wiring in my O2 sensor and IAT. Im sure I will have 100 more questions to ask before I am finished though. Thanks again!
2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd
Alright, I got the car to idle (although high) and move under its own power up and down the street. However, The only way I can prevent it from running lean is to set my VE table very high (100+). I have the req fuel set between 18 and 19, with the stock 120cc injectors. I have been using the auto generated AFR table for reference and the time being. With auto tune enabled in tuner studio, the computer wants to set some of the VE cells to over 200. The research I have done shows that the injector dead time could be a part of the problem and possibly even my required fuel amount. Something in the equation isnt adding up properly, thats for sure.
Also, do you guys run the factory idle valve? I had mine enabled for a bit but it was letting some air through, even when unplugged and caused a super lean condition. It may just be old and crusty, so I just ended up disconnecting it and plugging the inlet.
2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd
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