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**firebush357** · 09-05-2018, 05:18 AM

I picked up one of these motors recently but have yet to install it.

**Rick the Quick** · 09-05-2018, 12:25 PM

I thought I would add my 2 cents on this subject. I am running a B6ME that came out of a '94? Kia Sephia. Mazda MX3 is a rare car and I am not sure if Mazda put the B6ME in any other models. I have had the B6ME in my car going on 2 years and am quite happy with it. I don't remember all of the installation details but I am certain my install was much simpler then what Louie outlined. Perhaps the MX3 has different details then the Kia version. Here is what I found and BTW my car is a '91 with a 5 speed and the Kia engine came out of a 5 speed car.
The stock Festiva ECU and B3 injectors will run it perfectly. You will need to use the B6ME distributor. I don't remember changing a single thing on my wiring harness. I am not using the IAC on my B6ME. I live in a mild climate and the car runs perfectly without it. On a cold morning I need to feather the throttle for about the first few minutes until the engine warms and the idle speed increase. It is possible to use the B3 alternator if you change the pulley to the ribbed type, however you will be better off using the Kia alternator. I bought this '91 to use as a daily driver, not for racing or performance so I did not see any reason to move the VAF for more direct airflow. This simplified things because not only did I not have to move the VAF, I also did not have to move the battery location or use a compact battery. I did see a write up on here where the guy used plumbers pcv and fittings to connect the VAF to the B6ME throttle body. I originally tried this and found it to be a complete joke. I used a piece or two from the stock plumbing and used a radiator hose from a full size diesel pickup to connect things. I will try to attach a photo to show this. The photo shows the initial install. I have since cleaned up a few details. Using the B6ME down pipe would be a good idea but I did not have that option. The B3 pipe will work if you wallow out the holes in the flange and it will also need to be shortened and rotated slightly to hit the catalytic converter. This will make sense when you do it. As for performance it is a huge improvement over the B3. I can pull long grades on the interstate in 5th gear without loosing speed. These same hills would have the B3 in fourth gear. Acceleration is much improved. I know spinning tires are not an indication of good performance but I do know that when it's time for a clutch I will be moving the engine and transmission forward to help with traction. I am running 185/60/14 Douglas tires, I can't complain about the price (free) but they are quite hard and off the line or coming out of a turn I can easily spin them until I can smell 'em burning not to mention the harsh wheel hop that is beating the hell out of the E transmission. None of this was ever a problem with the B3. One more thing I will mention. I have read where the bottom end of the engines are essentially the same as the B6D twin cam engines. Much tougher then a B3 or 8 valve B6. Ryal (dragonhealer) told me the B6ME I am running should have a safe redline of 7,200 rpm's. I never had mine that high. It does pull good up to around 6 and have run it to 6500 on occasions. I am sure it could run better with the air intake straightened and also running closer to sea level. Where I live the elevation is 5,280 and higher. If anyone has any questions send me a pm and I will try to answer them.
Rick

**Louieisawsome** · 09-05-2018, 09:52 PM

Definitely much simpler if you didn't need the IAC or air conditioning! Also yeah i hear you can use the b3 computer but it is not ideal.

I aught to include some pictures lol
IMG_20180905_194914.jpg

**Louieisawsome** · 09-05-2018, 09:56 PM

That pics too tiny.

**Rick the Quick** · 09-05-2018, 11:55 PM

I aught to include some pictures lol
IMG_20180905_194914.jpg[/QUOTE]

Yeah I heard the B3 computer is not ideal. I heard it on this forum. Something about not revving past 3k or something.
No real proof or anything just something somebody heard. Don't believe it for a minute. My car runs exceptionally strong especially considering I am a mile above sea level and usually closer to 6,000 feet above sea level. In all honesty I don't think the correct computer would make any noticeable difference. Of course if I had access to a complete donor car I would have used it. Me spending the $55 the salvage yard wanted for the Kia computer is not going to happen. My total investment so far is right around $500. $200 for the car, $250 for the engine, $50 miscellaneous. 14" wheels and tires were free. They came off of the free Capri B6T donor car that I test drove cross country. Your installation looks good. If I was after performance I would have moved the air flow meter. A good mounting system for the air flow meter is important and the factory did a good job. At the time I did the swap I just wanted a running vehicle. Quick and easy is what I was after. Relocating the air flow meter just didn't seem important when I was tired of walking. Not to mention I have seen some really crappy relocation jobs. My Capri B6T donor car comes to mind. Like I mentioned, as for performance it has exceeded all expectations. No longer do I get stuck behind slow drivers / slow vehicles when having to merge. I run 'er up to 6 grand and get moving in a way that surprises a lot of people. If it didn't run as well as it does I would have more incentive to finish the B6T car. I paint cars for a living and have enough paying jobs lined up to keep me from my projects.

**w4rkry** · 09-06-2018, 10:49 AM

I have seen 2 festivas now that had a SOHC B6 8V that ran poorly with the B3 ECU.

Maybe the 16V runs a fuel map more similar to the B3?

**Rick the Quick** · 09-06-2018, 03:35 PM

That's possible Will. I'm always looking for a complete car when I am contemplating an engine swap. In this case I needed a running car for transportation and was at the mercy of the SALVAGE YARD BANDITS. Maybe we could persuade Louie to plug in his original B3 computer (if the plug in is unchanged) and he could report back to us with his findings.

**Louieisawsome** · 09-10-2018, 10:44 AM

Rick the b3 computer worked. But had some idling issues and when revved would drop down to a very low idle. B6 computer works great aside from the CEL. I didn't drive it around though so i can't comment on power delivery.

**likeJIF** · 10-09-2018, 12:14 PM

I too have the B6ME, not sure why you had to bag the firewall or drill new holes for the throttle cable, I used the throttle cable it came with and just routed it around and over then made my own bracket to hold it in place. I have the B6 PCM with the B6 vaf so it runs great, the only issue that I really have is the drivers side axle being to short, brand new it clicks (maybe a factory defect but I doubt it) went through 2 now. I used a Nissan sentra intake tube and purchased a smaller battery just because I wanted the space & weight savings. I also have a modified clutch cable from a 86 Subaru Brat that I made work, that's not hydraulic. I used the a/c from the B3 (which was a PITA to install) by getting the v-belt pulley (thanks James Davis), although I have overheating issues if I sit to long. Even after installing header wrap and a moldable heat shield plus the automatic Festy's coil fan it still has issues during long waits with the a/c on (15+min) (Texas heat).

**Rick the Quick** · 10-09-2018, 04:20 PM

Originally posted by likeJIF View Post

I too have the B6ME, not sure why you had to bag the firewall or drill new holes for the throttle cable, I used the throttle cable it came with and just routed it around and over then made my own bracket to hold it in place. I have the B6 PCM with the B6 vaf so it runs great, the only issue that I really have is the drivers side axle being to short, brand new it clicks (maybe a factory defect but I doubt it) went through 2 now. I used a Nissan sentra intake tube and purchased a smaller battery just because I wanted the space & weight savings. I also have a modified clutch cable from a 86 Subaru Brat that I made work, that's not hydraulic. I used the a/c from the B3 (which was a PITA to install) by getting the v-belt pulley (thanks James Davis), although I have overheating issues if I sit to long. Even after installing header wrap and a moldable heat shield plus the automatic Festy's coil fan it still has issues during long waits with the a/c on (15+min) (Texas heat).

The B6ME should not have changed any of the axle geometry. Did you get the engine and transmission centered as before the swap? If it is it sounds like you have a defective axle. Sometimes a rebuilder will ship a batch with the wrong joints. They will work but will cause problems if the length is wrong. I am using a new Chinese made Festiva radiator. I would have gone with something slightly larger but as usual I was trying to get it done quickly. I hear guys are running BP's with stock Festiva radiators with no problems. I don't believe they are in the hot Southwest. I ocassionaly find my temperature gauge climbing higher then it ever did with the B3 even with new radiator.
This only happens when I drive 15 minutes or more @ 80 mph on a hot (95+ degree) day. When I slow things down the temperature comes right down. BTW when I say the gauge climbs higher with the B6, we're talking only half way on the gauge. The B3 never got the gauge past about 1/3rd. I'm about the only guy in New Mexico without a/c. The B6 has a bracket for the Kia compressor. It's going to get a/c before next season and with it a larger radiator. And yeah I also had to clearance the firewall slightly because the B6ME intake was within 1/4" from the firewall. A hammer used with care did the trick. Show us some pictures when you find the time.

**likeJIF** · 10-09-2018, 04:34 PM

I still need to finish making an intake box, relocate my rad over flow, and trim then paint up my throttle bracket. No need to bang the fire wall.....lots of room.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

**likeJIF** · 10-09-2018, 04:59 PM

Custom carbon hood over my B6ME. I train in Albuquerque every few year at the air force base at the NTC, so I know how it is there.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

**Louieisawsome** · 10-11-2018, 06:38 AM

No need to bash the firewall if you make mounts.

I used the stock trans and mounts.

**Louieisawsome** · 10-11-2018, 07:27 AM

I drilled a hole in the old bracket and used that. I didnt drill a hole in the firewall or anything.

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