power door locks

[stefan]

The RX-7 power window switches look very similar to the UK pride switches in the armrests.
The exception is that the Pride does not have the window lockout switch.

The pride switches in your picture are a KIA part, used in the kia manufactured cars. I have a pair of these stashed away. The cars made by mazda (like my car) used Mazda switches, which look exactally like those RX7 switches

[bravekozak]

I would like to thank Twistiva for sending me a pair of Kia Pride door lock actuators from our group buy from Four Green. The parts came from Kia in Seoul, Korea.
They were pricey ($33 each), but necessary for a stock fit.
Please check the Kia Pride power door lock wiring diagram for any errors. pp 54-55.
They are on their own separate circuit. I will be installing a Pride fuse block. With a fuse labelled "LOCK".

[bravekozak]

Stefan, are you using relays? If not, that could be the reason why your switch is acting up.
After measuring, I believe the best power locks for a Festiva are the Mazda MPV rear hatch actuator. You will need to find three of them. They have the proper length of rod, are thinner than the Protege/Pride actuator housings and have the proper distance between the mounting studs. I will shear a couple of small pieces (0.075" X2.25" X 4") of stainless at the Metal Supermarket this Saturday to weld to the existing plate on an angle.

[bravekozak]

I tested my homemade fuse block terminal removal tool yesterday. I works!
In hindsight, it would have probably been a lot easier to just buy a Kia Pride fuse block and then carefully cut open the Festiva fuse block to remove the four main power wires. Or, I could just stick a couple of extra wires and fuses for the power lock and power window circuits into the unmarked slots in the Festiva fuse block.

The power window and power lock circuits work fine. But, I am still having difficulty in wiring in the Viper remote entry.

[bravekozak]

I have knocked out the clinched studs in the Mazda Protege power window actuator brackets. I will install some M6 X 14mm weld studs farther apart. I have determined that it would be easier to fab a bracket extension for the thicker Protege actuators than for some thinner Mazda MPV rear hatch actuators. More to follow.

[bravekozak]

I cut two small pieces of metal, pushed the weld studs through and had the new wider spaced studs TIG welded to the Protege actuator brackets.

After painting them, I screwed them to the Protege actuators.

I mounted them on both doors. Notice the nuts are in the recesses so that the door panel is unaffected.

Here is a pic of what they look like mounted inside the door.
Obviously, I have to turn the rod retainer around on the driver's actuator and bend a piece of rod to go up to the extra orange one that I snapped into a spare hole on the lock mechanism. These locks do not have electrics.

[bravekozak]

Just as some manufacturers have corporate door handles, trunk latches, door locks, etc., Mazda should have had corporate actuators. In other words, the recesses in the door should have been at the same spacing as the Protege, and the holes should have been punched. I have an extra set of Protege actuators, just in case anyone else wants to share my pain and suffering in trying to install factory parts. Sorry, no brackets. You'll have to find another old fully loaded Protege LX at the junkyard for the brackets.

[bravekozak]

After three tries, I got the fourth link to work.
It's still not perfect, but very close. the trick is to make sure the rods pivot opposite to each other on the lock mechanism. It's easy to bend once you get the hang of it.
I only used part of a long door rod. You can make about six out of the same rod. The actuator works fine on locking and unlocking the door. I am well pleased.
Next project. Wire the relays for progressive unlock with the Viper remote. One push, the driver's door opens, two pushes, both doors and the rear hatch open.

[bravekozak]

One final note. You have to use two white rod retainers on the r/h passenger door for the power door lock. It is the opposite of the two orange rod retainers used on the l/h driver's side. The retainers must lock in the direction of the rod.

[bravekozak]

I forgot to mention, you will have to grind a very small bit of the top right mounting flange where the plenum damper arm is, if you decide to mount an extra CPU plate for the Viper controller behind the glove box. You can just see a piece of the damper arm sticking out.

[bravekozak]

Does anyone know what the wire color is for the second position on the ignition switch for the power locks?

[bravekozak]

Since the Viper was a negative trigger for the power locks, I had to discard the Mazda power lock relay and wire two relays (an unlock relay + a lock relay) with the wiring all reversed. My power locks work together with a single switch. The question is, can I add a third relay for progressive unlock? The Viper has a second lock output on the second push. I could have one unlock relay to unlock the drivers door on the first push and the second unlock relay to unlock the passenger door and the rear hatch. I would have two switches in the cubby. The majority of the time, I would open and close with the remote.
The question is, would all three lock actuators lock simultaneously?

lock relay wiring:
30 blue output to lock
85 white positive
86 black to Viper green/black common lock
87 yellow positive
87A red ground

unlock relay identical except:
86 black to Viper green/blue common unlock

Lock switch wiring (using Pride cubby power window switch since it is also momentary):
Black ground
green unlock trigger
yellow lock trigger

[bravekozak]

I think I have been looking at progressive lock the wrong way.
I finally found the diagram I have been looking for.
It consists of three relays.
Driver Unlock Relay
All Lock Relay
All Unlock Relay
You will notice in the diagram that only the all lock and all unlock relay go directly to ground. The output from the all unlock relay goes to the what would have been the ground(87A) on the Driver Unlock relay. The Driver Unlock Relay is grounded through the All Unlock Rekay.
This way I will be back to one momentary switch.
I will try splicing it this way and see if I can fry anything.

[bravekozak]

Well. I am stumped. I think the problem must be in the momentary switch. I tried three switches with the same result.
If the switch isn't plugged in the remote works just fine. When the switch is plugged in, the switch works fine, but the remote doesn't. I removed one wire from the switch, and the remote works fine again, but the switch is missing one direction , depending if the lock or unlock wire was pulled.

Has anyone encountered this type of problem before? Maybe, I'll have to get a non-Mazda lock switch from the junk yard to do a test.

[jawbraeka]

Lol, big guy, little car... it happens to all of us

but you know what they say about a buy with big hands right?

big hands, Big hankey.
Big Hankey, Big nose,
Big Nose, Big Feet,
Big Feet, Big Shoes.