power door locks

[bravekozak]

The wiring diagram for the remote progressive unlock worked perfectly.
For the moment, I have only wired the Mazda 4 terminal momentary switch for open only, until I can figure out a way to change a positive trigger switch into one that likes a negative trigger. I am going to have to open one up to see whats inside. I looked at the diagram for the Pride power antenna switch (page 52) because it looks identical to the Pride power window switches (page 56).
Doctor Livingstone I presume?

Has anyone ever seen a power door lock Pride? It's in the Electrical wiring Diagrams on page 54.

There is a Pride Door Lock Relay and Timer listed on Four Green, but no "Door Lock Main Switch". Unless Switch Assy Dr means door. For $3.67, it's worth a call to Ali at Four Green. I will buy it just to see what it is. I sure hope it's the three terminal switch I need.

[bravekozak]

I thought I would post a picture of the main splice before I wrapped it in tape. It is crimped with a brass open barrel splice terminal (see example). Usually, someone always asks how did you get the insulation off in the middle of the wire? Small piece of wood underneath + an Exacto blade. Notice I am taking power off the main white line from the battery. You can see where it feeds into an unused spot in the fuse block. The 14 gauge wire will run from the 30A fuse back to the upper harness and the triple relays (driver unlock, unlock all, lock all). White is hot at all times.

[greywolf200]

Neat work, I have a wire stripper that grabs the insulation and pulls it apart like this, very quick. Gonna have to get some of those barrel splices.

[F3BZ]

pride PW parts diag 003.jpgpride PW parts diag 002.jpg strange that kia shows 2 different lock timer styles that have the same part#

[bravekozak]

It's the same part number. I am not sure how that relay would work. I never saw a wiring diagram for it in both of the Pride wiring manuals that I referenced. I have not seen lock timers advertised in sales brochures. Maybe it's just for Iran?

[F3BZ]

that timer shows up in the pride catalogs for iran, egypt, phillipines, and the UK. ther's a unit control box shown with the iran illustration that's not shown on the others but i'm not sure it even has anything to do with the PL's. i don't have any wiring diags either to reference but someday in the far future i will be dissasembling the JDM festiva. it has factory power locks and i'll be able to see what's involved. here is pics of the limited edition (only 200 made) "Melody" early Pride pushed in the UK. i saw one FS on Ebay UK a few years back and wanted it for the sliding , not pop-up, sunroof. but it also had PL's and an alarm. (don't know what happened to the last pic)

[bravekozak]

Pink Coral? Excuse me while I search Egypt and Iran catalogs. Thanks for the lead. We never stop learning.
At the moment, only the touch up paint is available.

[F3BZ]

at least your wiring diag is in English. is that from a pride system? for what it may help, here is the schematic for 1999 pride (4door) in german. includes the door locks and rear defrost I believe. Speakin Z Doitch?

[F3BZ]

crap! that's the wrong pic. i thought i deleted it and the site said i did. i'll try and pull up the correct P lock diagram

[F3BZ]

OK this is it.

[Spike]

Dear me.

Is it wrong that I just LOVE that pink Pride? o_O.. It's simply fantastic.

Also - 70.6MPG? What kind of engine do they have in there, even at IMP gallon figures?! Feedback sounds carb'd.. and 96MPH top speed sounds low..?

I want this car so bad. Find me one of the 200 now!

-Joe

[bravekozak]

Same engine. 1.3 L.

Take the average between city and highway. You will get a more realistic fuel consumption value.

Good luck looking on eBayUK and all the "Melody for sale" ads.

Find out the trim part numbers and see if Four Green can get them from Korea for you.

___________________________________

I was told that the only solution to my problem with only one wire of my manual lock switch working, was to install diodes in the lines leading to the relays. I was told that the stripe (indicating the negative pole) had to be on the switch side. It is supposed to function as a one way street, where positive will be blocked from coming backwards to the switch. The goal is to have only a negative pulse going to the relay (the same as what the Viper remote is doing).

[bravekozak]

I finally got a couple of inline diodes for the manual power door lock switch. It is very easy to determine which end is negative. Just put a multimeter on it and test for continuity. You will get continuity in one direction, but not the other. The spade side is negative. Diodes are the price you have to pay for negatively triggered remote locks.

[bravekozak]

Pic showing the connection to the right hand rear hatch harness between rear water bottle and right tail light.

Pic showing right hand rear hatch grommet.

Pic showing hatch actuator wiring. I need to get a long drill bit to drill a hole to mount the connector. There is a metal support section inside the hatch which requires the wiring to circumnavigate. The hatch actuator was wired to respond only to lock all or unlock all. It is not wired separately like the fuel door actuator. I spliced into the fused door lock power wire. I chose 14 ga. pink wire for the fuel door circuit.

Pic showing location of Honda Spree horn (single beep when opened and double beep when closed). I would like to thank 1990new for the main relay bracket. Sorry, but I determined I didn't need a main relay after all. I will remove the unecessary prop rod grommet when I take the fender off on the weekend. Unfortunately, I cannot attend the Woodward Cruise this year. Perfect weather.

[bravekozak]

Picture of my three power lock relays. From left to right: Driver's unlock, lock all, unlock all. You will have to imagine it flipped up in car position. I had to offset the Viper and the relays to ensure clearance with the glove box. I will unplug the relays before putting everything in conduit and taping. The nice thing about having two ECA bases on both sides of the dash means that I have a mounting point for a pair of Jeep courtesy lamps that I scavenged. There never was enough light down at floor level.

If anyone was wondering what the double wires coming out of the three connector were about, the smaller wires go back to the manual lock switch (besides the power window switch) with the in-line diodes.

I have decided to wire for the alarm as well. If you open the door without first disarming via remote, you get horn honk + light flash.