Did you even read that article I posted, LOL! :p
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sorry no, lol, just the sentances before the link. now i read the article and get the principle, but i still don't see the advantage, hence the ignition primary voltage drop issue.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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The advantage is the 10% fuel savings from the reduced load on the engine (reduced by 1 horsepower or so)
Now one must minus the added weight (1.5% extra fuel for the extra 120lbs or so)
That is a savings of 8.5% or so, and for me that is 4-5mpg!
Not worth the money maybe, but it would be neat to get 54mpg! What is the worst that could happen?
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4ga. MINIMUM, i would personally run a high grade 2ga. for minimum losses.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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If I'm going to be coasting down a hill for more than about 15-20 seconds, I shut my engine off and coast in neutral. At the bottom, I just put the key in the 'on' position, put in a high gear for my respective speed(normally 4th at 30-35) and pop the clutch. Voila, engine running without the extra fuel dump that happens with regularly stating it. And the B3 takes it like a champ, you can barely feel it.
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i dont think its worth it to take out the alt... i think its gonna be a BIG PITA if you ever need the power and then you cant get it.... the tiny amount it will give you in mpg's isnt worth it IMO... a few body mods will get you more mpg's then this idea...

Mike, AKA the sasquatch
1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...
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I am hoping to bring my current summer average of 48mpg to at least 51mpg JUST from this mod..........
Basically I am banking on a 6-7% increase in fuel economy. Given that I spend between $180-$200 a month on gas, I am looking to save about $10.80- $14.00 a month.
To try this, I will need:
Two deep cycle batteries ------------------ -= $0 (I am stealing them from my 5th wheel while I see if this works, lol)
About 10 feet of 4 guage wire----------------= $0-$30 ( $0 If Mike (sasquatch) has enough, lol, and $30 if not.)
A different belt for only water pump ----------= $10-$20
A battery charger for the evenings -----------= $0 (I already own one of those too!)
A way of attaching wire to batteries ---------= $0 (I already have some stuff for that)
Total cost to try this idea -------------------= $10-$50
Time to pay it off if it works as planned ------= 3 - 20 weeks (yes, I am strange
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The amount of happiness and joy I will get even if I only see a tiny increase ========= PRICELESS! hahahahahaLast edited by Darlo; 02-20-2011, 08:50 PM.
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yes there is. and you need to figure in for current and voltage losses across the length of cable (assuming you're going to do a remote battery install). there is an optimal gauge for run/weight with minimal losses and typicaly in remote battery installs or amp installs, 4ga is the minimum for best performance. remember, you're also using the batterys to START the engine which draws alot of current.Originally posted by Darlo View PostWhy 4 guage min? I dont dissagree, but is there a general rule for wire size and amperage?Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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