a simple question before i paint my car

[warlocke]

well ima be painting the egg soon, like within the next 2-3 weeks hopefully- so im just wondering, can i just scuff up the paint thats there now and spray over it or do i need to do somthin else.


what im putting on the car is basically this stuff

http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=2&paID=1018&sonID=468&page=1&productID=18280

its what was used on dads ford, very durable.

the color is massey ferguson grey


cost me 24 bucks for the paint.

but like i said do i just need to scuff up the current paint with like some 100grit sand paper?

[skeeters_keeper]

"scuff it up" real well, but yea basically scuffing it up should be good enough.

i suggest a power sand of some sort, palm sander/air sander/ w.e. just make sure you take off the top coat of paint every where!!! expecially if you have clear coat or dirt.

after sanding w/ 100grit or w.e. you decid to use for the first round wipe it down w/ a rag dampened w/ mineral spirits and spray your first coat. after that depending on the surface condition you can sand again dry or wetsand or just spray the next coat...

good luck!

[warlocke]

ok thats what i thought just makin sure.

[warlocke]

this is somthing someone photoshopped for me.
this is using the tractor paint all over (never mind the drivers door its only like that because the door is blue.) but the trim in the mid of the door is black, im still debating on this lol.


also i think ima just leave the dents and fix the rust. as all the dents i got are on body lines. cept the ones on the front fender.

[htchbck]

well ima be painting the egg soon

:lol: Just in time for easter! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

on a more serious note though, yeah, definitely scuff the paint first, cause I didn't and mine chips pretty easy

BTW, I like the pic down by the lake, I need to do that tonight down at the boat ramp at our lake... not to steal your idea or anything, but I like it and I want my car to look cool too lol

[warlocke]

lol thats at lake jacomo in lees summit, entered cotm over at fa.com with em.

but what ya think about the grey/black

[Sho_tyme_psi]

I would sand 120-180 seal, then 320 out. Usually I repeat that process like 3 times. But probally a bit more worried on the cars I do it on. My festy only getting 180 sand,sealer,scuff, then painted.

[skeeters_keeper]

i think you should leave the stripe black... helps break things up a bit. of course i'm not sure if its black right now or blue? i know that pic in your sig was photoshoped... either way i like it black, but since your going to be painting everything grey, just do it grey along w/ the rest, and then after the grey is done you bill be able to see what it looks like solid grey and if you want it black it will only take a few minutes!

also i suggest bondo'ing it... really, i mean your goint to paint it , a few more hours in bondo and it will look very good! even on the body lines its not too hard to do, bondo is great stuff. just scuff the area inside the dent up real good (preff down to the metal at least at spots), mix up the bondo and smear it in. try to make it slightly above the surounding surface and after like 10min you can use a rasp and work it down to a closer fit, and after that you can use a file/sandpaper. it will take 2 coats at least for most places unless your really good w/ the bondo, but after the bondo is hardend you can spray right on it and it looks good... so i really suggest it!! its deff worth the extra time

[stefan]

I agree its easy to fix dents. I had a brutal dent on the body line underneath the rear window on the passenger side. It was so bad the metal was kinked. I just leavered on it from the inside with a crowbar and hit down the high spots with a rubber hammer. In the end i only had to use about 1/8 of bondo in the low spots.

[festivaWES]

I don't know why you would start with 100-120 grit that will take the paint bown to bare metal quick....use 240-340 and you'll be fine. I think you canstill get a whole roll if it in DA circles for 20 bucks or so.

[warlocke]

ive been thinking about the bondo stuff as well. just maybe drill a hole or 2 into the body in the center of the holes thatway bondo has somthing to acutally stick through. but i cant get to the back sides of most of the dents, and on most of them id have to use like 1/2" -3/4" of bondo just to level it out. thats to thick for my comfort. been considering just taking a screw threw the metal and trying to pull it in some and such.

[stefan]

well i dont know where your other dents are, but that one above your rear wheel i bet you can get at with a prybar if you take the taillight out. I had one in the same area on my fest and i just took off the taillight and slowly levered it out with a crowbar.

[festivaWES]

If your going to use plastic filler/bondo....sand with 80 grit apply bondo then sand with 120 then feather out to 240. Don't drill any holes bondo won't adherre to it any better.

[Guest]

does anyone still drill holes to do bodywork anymore??? I thought that went the way of the leadslingers..

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93457

[Sho_tyme_psi]

does anyone still drill holes to do bodywork anymore??? I thought that went the way of the leadslingers..

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93457

lol yea. not the best way. Uni spotters a getting to a reasonable price,some canbe found for @ $100-120