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Body roll, Sway bars, and a big pipe.

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  • Body roll, Sway bars, and a big pipe.

    OK, so I was thinking about how to get some more grip out of the tires and I thought of something.
    The car is set up from the factory to understeer. Standard thinking would tell you that to counter the understeer you would stiffen the rear sway bar. Now, the body also rolls excessively under cornering, this messes with the camber and would affect how much grip the tires get, more so up front because there is more weight there.
    If you were to stiffen the front sway bar you would get less body roll, and might actually understeer less. The remainder of the understeer could be corrected by a larger rear sway bar. I think in the long run you might get better performance.

    Has anyone tried using the aspire front sway bar?
    OX SMASH!!

  • #2
    The Aspire sway bar is too wide.
    * Retired Festiva-er*
    1990 Festiva - The Once Fastest Red 1990 Festiva LX on this site! - now in more dedicated hands!
    B6T'ing since May 2002...

    Disclaimer: I'm a dick, deal with it.

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    • #3
      oh, well that ruins that idea...

      I guess I would have to get one made to test the idea.
      OX SMASH!!

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      • #4
        the aspire swaybar fits if you run the aspire control arms. this is what i did. the problem is, what axles would work? that is my problem...

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        • #5
          I think I'd rather keep the festiva gear and just get a custom sway bar made. I'm sure it's not that much to get a piece of metal bent. I'm going to stop by the racing shop and ask them if they can get it done.
          OX SMASH!!

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          • #6
            I'm at that stage and will find a bar from a different application. All ready found one need to do some small calculations.

            Thanks :wink:

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            • #7
              i have a solution to the problem, a real cheap solution.

              now the cv joints appear to be too short to fit when using the aspire front end, but thats an easy fix.

              you take the inner cv joints apart, and move the star shaped part of the cv joint untill it overhangs the axle shaft by 15mm, then weld the inside of the star part right onto the axle shaft. this gets you the 15mm extra per side you need to fit g trans axles up properly. i dont know if you can do this with the stock trans and cv joints. the only down side is that you cant change out cv boots if they rip unless you use those shitty split boot kits so you will probably want to change the cv boots out at this point so they can last as long as possible.

              now you get stronger aspire control arms, and a hell of alot stronger aspire front swaybar too.

              anyone with a stick welder can do this.

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              • #8
                If you want to use the Aspire front sway bar you need the Aspire LCA's (Lower Control Arms) AND Aspire Axles they are longer for that extra half inch.... Just a lil FYI.. -Kyle
                Cosmic Blue 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 - Mostly Stock...

                White 1990 Ford Festiva - B6 SOHC powered 50 shot = 14.5 @ 94 mph Gone but not forgotten

                Proud member of Chicken Mechanix Racing

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                • #9
                  aspire axles wont work with a g trans.

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