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aspire rear end rebuild

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  • aspire rear end rebuild

    well im going through the procedure of completly tearig down my aspire rear axle beam down to ever nut and bolt and rebuilding it. so far its all been tore down, sand plasted, por 15 the whole rear beam, new FMS trailing arm bushings installed. i had a few issues that i needed to fix, first off my passanger spindle the the threads where a little messed up so i had to get that fixed, then when putting on the new wheel cylinders the holes did not line up with the drum backing plate so i had to drill them a little bigger. i really didnt want to drill them but it seems theres only 2 supliers for the the wheel cylinders brakeware/bendix and tru torque, no one had any locally so i couldnt verify if i had a bad batch or thats just how they where. i reasemble the drums but i have a few extra pieces 4 springs and 2 horse shoe shaped clips, i know 2 of the springs where for the adjuster but i used the old ones. Also when installing the shoe hold downs and locking clip, the hole on the shoe is a little large so the spring has a tendancy to fall into the hole a little, it would be nicer if thy had some kind of washer underneath or something to prevent this. should i add a washer? or dont worry about it? heres some pics



  • #2
    if you see somethig that dont look right let me know because i didnt have another drum to compare it to when putting it back together.

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    • #3
      That looks alot like my rebuild I'm doing right now on Red.
      ---------------------------------------------------
      The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
      ---------------------------------------------------
      BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!


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      • #4
        Keep us updated. I'm going to be doing the same thing and I'll use this thread as a reference.
        Festiva: Because even my dog can build a Honda.
        ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

        '90 L. B8ME/Kia Rio 5 speed. Rio/Aspire suspension swap. :-D
        '81 Mustang. Inline 6, Automatic.
        '95 Eagle Summit Wagon. 4G64 Powered.

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        • #5
          using the haynes manual was petty good, i still feel like i missing something though, it told you step by step on how to assmeble the springs. I would recomend investing in one of the drum brake clip tools for the shoe hold downs it helps save your thumbs

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          • #6
            grrrr more head aches as i try to complete this "simple" rear end rebuild. Today i i tried putting the sprindle and drums on the rear axle beam. well i couldnt get the drums to sit right on the spindle. After playing with it a few times taking it apart and putting it back together i found out the problem was the drum was haning up on the inner bearing and the spindle, So i put the spindle on the buffer to make sure that there was no burrs and i slipped the bearing over it, it was a tight fit. For some reason i couldnt get the spindle to line up with the bearing with the spindle bolted to the rear end so i took it all apart again and just assembled the drums and spindles on my bench.

            the bearings are sitting all right but i still have a big gap between the drum and the splash shield, im wondring if my gap issue could be due to maybe the races not being in all the way? i put them in using big sockets and a piece of wood, i compared them to the old drum and it seems like there seated all the way but thats the only thing i could think of that could be stopping the drum from sitting correctly in, the gaps is approximetly 3/8?

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            • #7
              have you seated your bearings by torqing them - I dont think it will acount for all of the 3/8" but it may be some

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              • #8
                i did crank on them pretty good anf backed them off, i would beaffraid to crank on it any more then i did. when i get some free time again i will take it apart, the only thin i could think of that could be preventing the drum from seating all th way is the bearing races. any other ideas?

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                • #9
                  I hit mine in with a 35mm socket for the inners and a 20-21 for the outter race.
                  ---------------------------------------------------
                  The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
                  ---------------------------------------------------
                  BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!


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