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Aspire rear brake bleed issues
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Originally posted by Arnie View PostAre you suggesting a full bench bleed?
91 L - modified to SLX- "Tin Can Project"
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92 GL - parts car
97 aspire - parts car
87 323 DX - daily driver
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Yeah, when i installed the Aspire stuff I made sure to watch the fluid and/or cap off exposed lines to keep things from draining completely. The reservoir was never dry. Lowest point it ever got was mid-level. I continuously filled the reservoir at any point that i had the lines "open".
I've tried the Russell before but wasn't too impressed with them. Never seemed to get all the bubbles out as effectively as with ye ol' buddy pumpin' method.
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Woohoo, fixed. I'm really not sure how this worked but it did. So I was dragging my heals on working on the bleed, just sitting in the car messing with the e-brake. I decided I needed to adjust the cable. Adjusted it till the e-brake had a fairly short throw. Pressed on the brake pedal and noticed that the pedal was more firm. Hmmm. Then decided to start bleeding. Voila! Rear drums start flowing fluid. After that it was a piece of cake. I'm thinking because the pads weren't close enough to being fully engaged, the pedal wasn't pumping far enough to get fluid going?
Braking performance is truly significantly better than the Festiva. Lots of bite. Pedal feel is pretty decent considering i don't have SS lines and modulation is good.
Thanks for you help gentlemen!
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Originally posted by Fez View Postor you could try these: http://www.speedbleeder.com/
The part number for an Aspire front or rear is SB8100 and they are only $7 a piece.
Note that the wrench you need to turn the screw will be somewhere from a 1/4" to 7/16" hex, because they use SAE bleeder screw stock, which they say is far cheaper than metric stock.Last edited by TominMO; 05-06-2011, 10:01 AM.90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
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