Coil over help needed please!!

[Hot_Wheels]

ok so today me and EGTeric pulled the stock festiva rear end and started to assemble the aspire one and get it ready to drop back in. We could not figure out how the coilovers should be assembled and of course there were no directions. i laid out all the pieces on a sheet of paper and put letter by them so give me the order you think it should be in. Also are there any pieces you think i should replace? im going to see if i can find some sleeves tommarow so the bolts fit good in the AGX shocks. I thought there was something that needed to be drilled out? Also im planning on ordering some QA1 shocks what would be a good weight spring for the rear for drag racing? should i get it just as short as the coilover spring?

[Hot_Wheels]

are the orings meant to keep the shock body in place? because there is alot of slop with out them.

[lanemeyer14]

I'd like some info on that shaved hatch! Planning on doing the same with mine so I need some ideas

[shorestiva]

yes the o rings keep it from moving around. I got 350 for the rear of mine but I think im going to get some 600 instead.



Where did you get those aluminum spring tops? My kit came with some sorry plastic ones.

[sasquatch]

yes the o rings keep it from moving around. I got 350 for the rear of mine but I think im going to get some 600 instead.



Where did you get those aluminum spring tops? My kit came with some sorry plastic ones.

OMG 600lb springs?... isnt that a weeee bit over kill? ooo and im picking my coilovers up tomorow lets hope they will work... (fingers crossed) and BTW those coilovers and hatch look very sexy good job!!!

[shorestiva]

You want to go really stiff in the back if your drag racing a fwd car. The more the weight tranfers to rear the less traction you have. I was going to do the 350 so it wouldn't be as harsh on the street but I just don't care anymore.

[sasquatch]

You want to go really stiff in the back if your drag racing a fwd car. The more the weight tranfers to rear the less traction you have. I was going to do the 350 so it wouldn't be as harsh on the street but I just don't care anymore.

ya thats true... if i find im loosing traction ill just put a solid pipe in where the spring goes lol....

[Biglay5150]

Im running 150# springs in the back. 350# are too stiff.

[Biglay5150]

Here read this! It should be a sticky.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9859&highlight=spring

[floydiancomplex]

Sasquatch is dead on. If you are going to run a 600 Lb spring you might as well just
use a solid pipe. Sure you are not going to get much weight transfer but you also
won't have rear suspension at all. Just for the record those AGX you are using are
only valved for a 300-350 Lb spring at best. Actually all AGX no matter the model are
designed for that spring rate at the most. They are a good strut if not over sprung.
Also consider that there is only one knob and it changes both the compression and
rebound settings at the same time. If it had enough rebound dampening at setting 8
to handle your springs return, the compression dampening would be so high you would
once again have no movement what so ever. I am running a 250 lb spring on front and
a 220 in the rear with the Mitsubishi Mirage AGX at all 4 corners. I use setting 3 (0f 4)
on the front and 4 (of 8 ) out back. I drive on road courses but if I had any desire
whatsoever to drag race it wouldn't change a thing. For one reason BRAKING. You see
your rear needs to settle on the suspension at least an inch or two; because under
hard or threshhold braking you will have 80% or more of the vehicle weight on the front
tires. If the rear has no rebound to give you do a stoppie. Unless you are a stunt driver
you will have a hard time driving on two wheels at the limit. Any, I repeat ANY steering
input will lead directly to a spin. Spins lead to impacts with walls and other cars. Just
something to think about.

[Hot_Wheels]

Well today was no better. i made some reducers for the AGX shocks out of Bronze bushings, which i got from the local Ace hardware. I went to bolt the shocks up and the nut inside the rear end is stripped! i dont know what to do? im thinking of dropping it off at the machine shop and seeing if they can fill the nut with weld and then tap it? I dont want to have to get another rear end i have lots of time and money invested in this rear end. grrrrrr my stock festiva axle beam is mint!!! i reused lots of parts off the festiva rear end all the bolts came off like butter. its sad i have no use for the rear end its completly rust free from california

[shorestiva]

The bolts snapped off in mine I had to drill them out and tap them.

[Hot_Wheels]

anyone have any idea on how to fix the stipped out bolts? i had a few ideas but there pretty labor instemsive, i was thinking of having the hole filled with weld and then try to tap it? the only issue with that is there isnt much room beacuse of the shock support. the other thing i was thinking of was cutting out a square where the nut is, make a new plate with welded nut and putting it back together

[batstiva]

I think your second option is going to be your best option, assuming you have the equip. to do it.

[sasquatch]

i had the same thing happen to mine... i cut a 1x1 inch square in the bottom of the beam and took out that nut and welded in a new one. just make sure you let the nut cool before you stick the bolt in... i didnt let it cool and stuck the bolt in and it cooled down and shrunk on to the bolt and got stuck... i tried backing it out and it just stripped again i had to do it twice before i got it...