I always have been thinking about the hand brake to make it better because it doesn't lock the wheels while moving. I know that the tyres are falken ze512 165/55R14 but it should be better. About a year ago I changed the brake shoes and it always been like this. In a slope it holds ok but when you need to make a u turn or something like that it doesn't work. Is there something to be done to make it better?
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Mine works fine with my stock 12's.
while driving 35/40mph and pulling up on it the tires lock up and spin me around.
When I got the car it wouldnt do that. I think adjusting the spring on inside of drum made mine work better. forget what the "term" for it is called. But it made the shoes catch better.93L sold. First FESTY!
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Originally posted by gestiva View PostMine works fine with my stock 12's.
while driving 35/40mph and pulling up on it the tires lock up and spin me around.
When I got the car it wouldnt do that. I think adjusting the spring on inside of drum made mine work better. forget what the "term" for it is called. But it made the shoes catch better.:festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:
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Yes, the drums do adjust themselves. Try the in-cabin adjusting thingamajig for the e-brake cable and handle. To do this:
Park the car, and jack up the rear on jackstands. Remove the e-brake cover and disengage the e-brake. Then, using an extended 10mm socket/wrench, adjust the tension on the spring (you'll see a tall cylindrical 10mm thing) and tighten it until your e-brake locks between 10-16 clicks. You test this by dis-engaging the e-brake, spinning the wheels with your foot, then clicking up slowly until the wheels lock. 10-16 clicks is the Factory recommendation, and mine is set to about 11.
Let me know if you have any more questions... this made a WORLD of difference on my e-brake.1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc
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Originally posted by Aaronbrook37 View PostYes, the drums do adjust themselves. Try the in-cabin adjusting thingamajig for the e-brake cable and handle. To do this:
Park the car, and jack up the rear on jackstands. Remove the e-brake cover and disengage the e-brake. Then, using an extended 10mm socket/wrench, adjust the tension on the spring (you'll see a tall cylindrical 10mm thing) and tighten it until your e-brake locks between 10-16 clicks. You test this by dis-engaging the e-brake, spinning the wheels with your foot, then clicking up slowly until the wheels lock. 10-16 clicks is the Factory recommendation, and mine is set to about 11.
Let me know if you have any more questions... this made a WORLD of difference on my e-brake.:festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:
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The emergency brake cable attaches to a linkage at the brake drum. That lever is made of two pieces that are joined by a pivot pin. It is not uncommon for the pivot to rust and seize up which can render the e-brake useless.
To fix this you have to disassemble the brakes, remover the lever, soak it in some kind of rust remover/release (PB Blaster, Release-All), until the pivot moves freely, work some brake lube into the pivot joint, then put it all back together.
I had to do this on my own car a couple of years ago and it did the job.Ian
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Originally posted by fastivaca View PostThe emergency brake cable attaches to a linkage at the brake drum. That lever is made of two pieces that are joined by a pivot pin. It is not uncommon for the pivot to rust and seize up which can render the e-brake useless.
To fix this you have to disassemble the brakes, remover the lever, soak it in some kind of rust remover/release (PB Blaster, Release-All), until the pivot moves freely, work some brake lube into the pivot joint, then put it all back together.
I had to do this on my own car a couple of years ago and it did the job.:festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:
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Originally posted by lancerevo View PostThis morning, I checked the adjustment from the middle of the rear axle. There is an adjustable nut to adjust the cable. The setting was on the lowest, so I adjusted it to the max best that I could. Although it was a bit rusty, the thread freed up after some hard work. There isn't too much adjustment so I removed the spring washer and I was able to make the nut move further. The thing that I don't like is that it comes from the factory as a one piece cable. You can't put a spacer between the nut and the cable. As for now it seems to worked very well because the handbrake feels hard just about 5 clicks.90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
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Even if I had tighten the hand brake, it's always not good enough. I think that it's the brake shoes are cheap low quality. The brand is mk kashiyama corp. Does anyone knows a good brand for brake shoes? Is EBC good?:festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:
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