Split the rear beam in two down the middle, buy another beam, use the mounts from that one to attach to the beam where the cut was made (adjust length to attach to car and still have the same movement as stock) on either side... Possible?
In love with a MadScientist!:thumbright: There's a fine line between breathtaking ingenuity and "That's the stupidest thing I've ever seen!"
You'll have to run a fuel cell because the stock gas tank will be in the way.
I suppose you could do this, but the flex in our stock rear axles already provides for some "independence." The Aspire stabilizer bar stiffens this up.
I'm guessing if you did do it, you would have more unsprung weight than a "normal" IRS.
Just guessing.
Karl
'93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
'91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
'92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
'93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
'89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project
why would you want to? its extra weight and would make the car sway more.....
but if i where to do it, the easiest way that i can think of is just to get a pivot in the middle... just take a pipe that fits inside another pipe good so it dosnt have any play and chop the beam in half and weld in the pivot...
Mike, AKA the sasquatch
1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...
I don't see how going from a torsion beam to a trailing arm is going to be an advantage in handling. A-arm and chapman struts, double a-arms, etc. or at least semi-trailing rear suspension would be an improvement.
1986 Comp Prep SVO Mustang(1 of 83) Four cylinder turbo! (Think first Fox body "R" model!)
1995 F-150 Extra Cab and it was free!
1991 Festiva L, Surf Blue with A/C
1995 Jeep Cherokee 2wd 5 speed 4.0 and it was free!
1993 Aqua Festiva and it was cheap!
1994 Brake Swap and it was cheap!
1969 Ford F100 Big Block Ranger and it was free! (coming 2/12)
I had an idea about doing a RWD conversion while using the stock rear beam....cut the beam where the spindles are and weld the solid axle in place so that it sits in the same spot that the spindles would sit. Then just weld up brackets on top of the axle so that the stock struts could be used....
Tyler
91 Festiva, 5spd, B8 swapped, now for paint and suspension
If I were to make independent rear suspension, I would probably start from scratch and build my own set-up, but the only way I would ever do that kind of work to the rear of a festiva is if I was either making it AWD or Twin engine, which I have been debating on doing each one :lol:
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
If I were to make independent rear suspension, I would probably start from scratch and build my own set-up, but the only way I would ever do that kind of work to the rear of a festiva is if I was either making it AWD or Twin engine, which I have been debating on doing each one :lol:
I wholly agree with Chris. IRS is useful when you're FWD, but when you're at the point in your build that you're concerned about the capability of the rear suspension to adequately handle the road/track/other independently, the primary concerns will probably still be about traction and launch control. To apply this in the Festiva context, this is to say that wheel spin and limited slips should take priority. Think about the highest horsepower builds, the drag builds, and especially the autocross/time attack builds. Do any of them have IRS? Have any of them considered it? Traction first, adding boost/fuel second, IRS way down the line.
With an Aspire beam and or a Leapin' Racing threaded beam modification, the rear end is more than capable of tackling street or track corners. Further, the rear beam is compact and an efficient way for the suspension of the car to operate. Once you throw in either a rear engine or AWD, traction stops being an issue, and the use of IRS becomes not only possible, but very much beneficial to the overall handling of the vehicle at large.
As for how the setup should be tackled, I agree that cutting out the spare tire well is a great idea. It gives you so much more necessary room to work with, and will make it far easier to slam the car while maintaining proper suspension geometry, shock absorption ability, and also the overall stance of the car.
I had an idea about doing a RWD conversion while using the stock rear beam....cut the beam where the spindles are and weld the solid axle in place so that it sits in the same spot that the spindles would sit. Then just weld up brackets on top of the axle so that the stock struts could be used....
What about running the driveline? The pinion would be pointing right into the beam portion of the axle.
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