Aspire/Festiva suspension swap

[Bert]

They are Monroe struts that are going on. Likely invest in new springs soon but Roger at FMS was so full of advice that I hung up completely confused. I'm leaning toward their sport springs but it sounds like the Aspire and Festiva versions are almost identical in length. I don't suppose that tire rub when turning the front wheels sharply is unavoidably in the forecast.
Festivas are great 'curb hoppers' and for that reason I have no desire to lower the car or get involved with add-on spoilers.

[Safety Guy]

From my experience I'm convinced that both Festiva and Aspire rear springs were the same weight and maybe same part. When I had some measured a long time ago, they were within one pound of each other. That could be due to wear and age issues, or even manufacturing variances for all I know. Measurements were taken before my first swap back in 2002. I had my '89L springs (about 120K miles on them) compared with the uncut 1996 Aspire springs (less than 100K miles). Aspire fronts were 10 pounds heavier each and rears were only one pound heavier each.

I do have a pair of "heavy duty" Festiva rear springs from FMS. I haven't used them yet, but they are definitely a touch thicker than stock rear springs. I put some calipers on all the sets of old grungy Festiva and Aspire springs I had around and compared them with the FMS heavy duties.

Karl

[m715]

Bert, I would say you ned to stick with stock spring height with a low mile/new set of stock springs from what you have said. I have had FMS Sports with body kits to stock height and 13" wheels and there is a great deal of road clearance between the two. With 155/80/13 winter tires and sport spings, you WILL at full lock turn rub the top of the front fenders. This is with a 4.5" wide steel wheel. The stock height spring makes the car look like you are ready to join the WRC in comparison. Loads of clearance front and back at both body and ground, and with Aspire rear struts, you can add weight to the rear without any sag. The Sport Spring DO lower the center of gravity, and improve extreme handling on the twistys, but require you to run a 175/60/13 tire which limits your choice of tires. (I have also run 165/60/13 Sumitomo HTR 200 with plenty of clearance).
Your choice of 175/70 or 155/80/13 with the stock height is greater, and cheaper than any other combo with good handling/wear IMO. I have burned through quite a few sets of 175-185/60's, and although they were a blast, except in the rain, was always dissapointed with tire wear. (6-8,000 miles on average, but I punish tires) These included the Falkens while they were available, Sumitomos from Tire Rack, and Nexxens.
Get youself a front strut bar!!!!!!!! This and high durometer or urethane bushings will make the biggest differenc in your Festivas handling/ driving enjoyment!


HTH
Michael

[Bert]

The rear part of this swap is all together although the springs and shocks will have to wait for another day. Will bleed the brakes in the morning and take a test drive with Aspire wheels on the back and Festys on the front. I took delivery on the Monroe mfg Aspire shocks and I'd really like to get some answers on what to do about back springs. I'd like to hear from someone that has actually done the FMS Sport springs, or has swapped Aspire springs without cutting them.
Just as Safety Guy suggested earlier; the Festy e-brake is about 1/2 inch short from reaching the drivers side connection and tomorrow morning I have my fingers crossed that I can generate enough slack to correct this by backing off the adjusting nut on the handbrake. If not I will jury-rig something. There is a reason for keeping this. The Festy e-brake cable on this car (which I've had for 4 years) is still smooth and shiny (stainless steel?) as compared to the mostly rotted/rusted-off 14 year old Aspire cable.

[m715]

The only thing you will have to answer for yourself is what final ride height you will want in the rear when you are done. You may want to try the stock height first. I have been moving away from the FMS sport spring height because of tire selection. I have had as many as three Festivas at one time with the sport springs in the past. These were with Bilstein struts on The Curmudgeon, KYB Supers on Rasta, and KYB GR2's on Shtinky with those springs. Of those, I least liked the abrupt THUMP of the GR2's over the slightest irregularity or crack in the road, while being no more resistant to body sway than the monroes I am experimenting with now, stock Festiva spring height. The Supers, and Bilsteins are 15% stiffer dampning than the GR2's, and I feel at least, Monroes.
Gabriels were tried , and I was so dissapointed in them for mushiness, so I gave them away to another local Festiva driver. Another note.. Gabriel Aspire rear struts and thr GR2's have the same perch height as the Festiva rear struts do. Guess it just cuts an extra SKU out of their line up they decided, as stock wheel/tire for an Aspire still has no clearance issue in an 80 series tire size.
What I really want to try next, is the Mk2-3 VW golf coil over swap for height/spring rate adjustablity. As the KYB Supers, and the Bilstein's are now obsolete, and NLA, I would say this might be the best choice for the future IMO. The only reason I have not tried this yet is that by the time I found out about them, I alredy had the Monroes, freshly installed, and ready for winter duties last early fall. Then came the Corolla in September...... But that is another story....
HTH
Michael

[Bert]

Comparing Aspire and Festiva stock springs (used ones) has been enlightening. They are for all intents and purposes identical in length (within 1/2 inch) thickness and coil diameter. The Aspire Monroes have been installed but the Festiva springs retained for now. I know this swap is supposed to include switching to Aspire tie rods but I could find no visible or fit difference with the ones already on the Festiva so I've left them on. Car is not yet on the road because some previous 'mechanical butcher' had stripped/broken off various caliper bolts and other necessary fasteners on all the Aspire fixins. Getting that stuff properly rectified has been taking quite a bit of extra time. My buddy on this venture is a professional welder/become magician when it comes to removing seized or broken bolts. I can readily appreciate that a competent "blue wrench" operator is invaluable for jobs on 20 year old salt-soaked cars.