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trouble with front aspire spindles?

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  • trouble with front aspire spindles?

    has anyone else had trouble after doing the aspire brake swap with regard to the control arms/ball joints loose in the aspire spindles. The only thing I can think of is rust on the spindle has caused the pinch mount to increase in diameter? I have tried 2 different sets of brand new control arms and both are very loose and the car doesn't handle well.
    jdm impreza wrx
    1990 LX 5spd

  • #2
    Originally posted by eastcoast413 View Post
    has anyone else had trouble after doing the aspire brake swap with regard to the control arms/ball joints loose in the aspire spindles. The only thing I can think of is rust on the spindle has caused the pinch mount to increase in diameter? I have tried 2 different sets of brand new control arms and both are very loose and the car doesn't handle well.
    It may be that the inside dia. taper on the spindles is worn.But its odd that you are having trouble with both sides. Is it possible someone might have damaged the taper dia when removing the ball joint from spindle?If it was severly rusted,they might have tried spreading the split area on the spindle with a chisel.Instead of using a a press/puller to remove ball joint. Other than that I'm at a loss for ideas.Anyone else?
    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
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    • #3
      Hubs = front
      Spindles = rear
      '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
      '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
      '92 Aqua parts Car
      '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
      '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

      "Your God of repentance will not save you.
      Your holy ghost will not save you.
      Your God plutonium will not save you.
      In fact...
      ...You will not be saved!"

      Prince of Darkness -1987

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      • #4
        Make sure you have the correct pinch bolts. Take the bolt out and hold it against the knuckle where the bolt goes through. Make sure the bolt has threads far enough down to allow the bolt to clamp tight on the ball joint. If you have a bolt that doesn't have enough threads to get it tight, when you run out of threads it will feel like you have it tight when it's not.
        You gonna race that thing?
        http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

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        • #5
          I may be wrong, it happens often. But dont festivas and aspires have different tapers on the lower control arm?
          ie; festiva lca fits festiva hub. Aspire lca fits aspire hub?
          If true that could be cause for ill-fitment.
          can anyone verify this?
          60% of the time it works, every time!

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          • #6
            Nope, at least not on any I've dealt with. I've used Aspires hubs on several festivas, all using brand new festiva LCAs. Now the tie rod ends... thats another story. What outer tie rod ends are you using?

            edit: haha me and blu posted the same thing at the same time
            Last edited by htchbck; 11-14-2011, 08:59 AM.
            No festiva for me ATM...

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            • #7
              ^lower control arms are the same, besides the length, aspire ones are longer, the ball joint is the same. It's the tie rod end you are thinking of.

              htchbck you beat me!
              -Josh R

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              • #8
                Take a hammer and pound the pinch bolt area together. I bet someone used a chisel on them to spread the area apart to remove the ball joint.
                89 Festiva L Carby 4 Speed... RIP. Evicted and Scrapped. I HATE MY FAMILY
                94 aspire 3 door Red -- Former BP, V6 KLDE swap underway! RIP... Rotted and Flooded out...
                2012 Mazda 2 Touring 5 Speed... It's Very, Very, Very green... Daily Driver
                1964 Barracuda 360 V8 Push Button 904 Auto, New Money Pit

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Pu241 View Post
                  Hubs = front
                  Spindles = rear
                  Whoops meant Knuckles,it was late.
                  Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                  Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                  Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Festy46 View Post
                    Make sure you have the correct pinch bolts. Take the bolt out and hold it against the knuckle where the bolt goes through. Make sure the bolt has threads far enough down to allow the bolt to clamp tight on the ball joint. If you have a bolt that doesn't have enough threads to get it tight, when you run out of threads it will feel like you have it tight when it's not.
                    I think John has something here. The bolt might be shanked out.I use new bolts with washers on both sides.And a metal lock nut,not a nylon one.Dont forget to use LOTS of anti-seize when reassembling.
                    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                    • #11
                      thanks, I will check the bolts and see if the pinch can be pounded closed. I have the aspire tie rod ends or whatever the right ones are? I know because I have a brand new pair of the wrong type sitting here...
                      jdm impreza wrx
                      1990 LX 5spd

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                      • #12
                        Not the ball joint and pinch bolt. Turns out the other side of the control arm where it bolts to the body is loose. Thanks for all the advice.
                        jdm impreza wrx
                        1990 LX 5spd

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