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VW parts versus Festiva parts

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  • #16
    A few notes from a mk1 "dub head"
    mk1 (pre 84 and mk1 cabriolets) didn't have any subframes. Swapping the LCAs would be a pita especially the sway bar, which is oriented via the rear of the car vs the front on the festiva.
    Ball joints have different sizes between mk1 and mk2, perhaps one is closer in size to the festiva.
    mk2 hubs are better in a way since they accept bigger bearings. however the strut tower is not directly interchangeable between mk1 and mk2. The mk2 struts would be too tall for a festiva. The mk2 struts do not have the upper two bolts found on the mk1 and festiva
    Also note that although quoted to "swap to gti rear discs", the majority of mk1/mk2 GTIs had 4x100 drums. The 16V model had 4x100 rear discs; a problematic swap since they are complete junk. The handbrake assembly is also very different than the festiva.
    The stock mk1/mk2 diesel had 55hp (ish). Slow as molasses.
    A turbo diesel 1.6 can be found and "tweaked" to get a little more ponys, but still painfully slow.
    the mk3 models had a 1.9 TD, a very nice upgrade (almost bolt on !) but had many problems with the crankshaft timing pulley shearing (auto destruction).
    The trannies for all these models had crappy linkage design (overly complicated). A common swap is from a passat or later mk3 with cable shift. Bolt on to the diesels and turbo diesel models; although a mount needs to be fabricated.
    A common swap for rabbits is to swap in corrado brakes (adapter needed). These brakes are HUGE: 11" and require a minimum 15" rim. This would be impressive to see on a festiva.

    good luck! Anything is possible I owned mk1, mk2 and festiva; it is my honest opinion that the braking and handling of the early volkswagens are much better (and easier to maintain) than the festiva.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by fstamand View Post
      A few notes from a mk1 "dub head"
      mk1 (pre 84 and mk1 cabriolets) didn't have any subframes. Swapping the LCAs would be a pita especially the sway bar, which is oriented via the rear of the car vs the front on the festiva.
      Ball joints have different sizes between mk1 and mk2, perhaps one is closer in size to the festiva.
      mk2 hubs are better in a way since they accept bigger bearings. however the strut tower is not directly interchangeable between mk1 and mk2. The mk2 struts would be too tall for a festiva. The mk2 struts do not have the upper two bolts found on the mk1 and festiva
      Also note that although quoted to "swap to gti rear discs", the majority of mk1/mk2 GTIs had 4x100 drums. The 16V model had 4x100 rear discs; a problematic swap since they are complete junk. The handbrake assembly is also very different than the festiva.
      The stock mk1/mk2 diesel had 55hp (ish). Slow as molasses.
      A turbo diesel 1.6 can be found and "tweaked" to get a little more ponys, but still painfully slow.
      the mk3 models had a 1.9 TD, a very nice upgrade (almost bolt on !) but had many problems with the crankshaft timing pulley shearing (auto destruction).
      The trannies for all these models had crappy linkage design (overly complicated). A common swap is from a passat or later mk3 with cable shift. Bolt on to the diesels and turbo diesel models; although a mount needs to be fabricated.
      A common swap for rabbits is to swap in corrado brakes (adapter needed). These brakes are HUGE: 11" and require a minimum 15" rim. This would be impressive to see on a festiva.

      good luck! Anything is possible I owned mk1, mk2 and festiva; it is my honest opinion that the braking and handling of the early volkswagens are much better (and easier to maintain) than the festiva.
      The upper strut mount is of no consequence, we already know the struts fit with Rio bearings installed. I actually intend to bolt Festiva/Aspire struts to the knuckles, using the stock uppers. They bolt right on, but I'll have to open up one of the strut mount bolts at the lower mount (knuckle) on the strut to keep proper alignment.

      My intention is to use the LCA's from the Festiva, including the installed ball joints, and use the VW MK2 hubs. The only MK1 part I intend to use are the axles, because they're physically shorter than the MK2 by something like 1.5" per side (about 40mm) and the MK1's chassis width is closer to the Festiva.

      The N/A diesels can be boosted fairly easily even using the stock pump with a little care of the weight of your right foot. The piston squirters in the turbo blocks are proven not necessary for low boost levels or people like me who won't use the boost excessively. Best to mind EGT's while boosting, in any case.

      The 55HP of the diesel is actually sufficient for a Festiva, given that the stock engine is about 63HP and has very little torque, versus the relatively flat and higher torque curve of the diesel. There's obviously some added weight, but it still won't equal the overall weight of the MK2 installed in the Festiva.

      To counter to issue with the shift linkage (crap... total crap) I'm just going to get a twin cable shifter and make brackets for the cables to mount to the trans directly at the gear manipulation shaft/lever. I can account for shift throw at the shift lever itself by moving the cable connection points, or at the transmission in the same way.

      Thanks for your input. Follow this thread, I may end up with some questions that require your knowledge!
      Last edited by Christ; 04-29-2012, 10:28 PM.

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      • #18
        Will follow the thread for sure. I looked into a vw swap as well but ended up going totally custom with a non-fossil burning festiva.

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        • #19
          Christ..you may need split bushings for proper clamping through to the festi stud..

          fsta..wood gas??? that is the only thing more carbon neutral than electric plug in
          that I know unless you charge off the grid..wind or solar..?
          Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Movin View Post
            Christ..you may need split bushings for proper clamping through to the festi stud..
            My thought was to have them milled -.002 so they'd have to be heated and forced onto the ball joint, then slide the hub over, drill the notch through the bolt hole, then slide the bolt in and clamp.

            2 piece ones would be workable, too, since you could then reuse them for ball joint changes. However, for the "mockup" project at least, and so I'm not asking too much of anyone, it'd be easier to just drill an existing slug to make the bushing, then I can bandsaw it later or get another set made for the "permanent install".

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            • #21
              I was hoping you were not counting on that notch to hold it in place
              You have it thought out well!!
              Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Movin View Post
                I was hoping you were not counting on that notch to hold it in place
                You have it thought out well!!
                Yep, took a whole hour out of my day lol.

                I always "know how" to make things work, just usually don't have the gumption to do it.

                Oddly, the computer didn't mark "gumption" as a mispelled word. O.o

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                • #23
                  Checked the mount spacing on the rear axle beam of the Golf versus the Festiva/Aspire units, it's a no-go. It could be done easily enough, but it's completely pointless, as the VW rear brakes are smaller than the Aspire parts, and the Aspire parts have the same bolt pattern as the VW, so there's no reason to use the (heavier) VW rear beam unless I were interested in maybe changing the suspension characteristics, etc... but everything looks to be in mostly the same places, too.

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