Advanced Suspension Mods

[rbrown]

I think I will do the 175/120 setup for now.
If I feel it's too weak I can always get the next sizes up and swap.

Saying this made me think. Since I am using the Aspire rear arm and the much larger Rio front brakes these might need to be upped a little. Your 200/150 might end up being perfect for my added weight.

[Advancedynamix]

120 feels good in the rear, feels like stock. I run 150's now, but that's mostly because it feels a little better on the track and I can carry a large load in the car. I am always filling it up with engines and tranies and stuff. If you plan on carrying a load with the car I would go with 150's. They aren't really rough, a little stiffer than stock. I have been told by a few people that they are more comfortable than FMS springs. I have never driven a car with the FMS setup, so I can't verify this myself.

Yes, my front springs are 2.5"x10" 200lb black magic springs by southwest speed. My rear springs are 1 7/8"x8" 150lb black magic springs. The narrow springs are nice in the back because the 1 7/8" small body bilstein sleeves fit the KYB shocks very well and the narrow springs and adjusters allow for more tire clearance than stock, plus for ultimate handling they are lighter than the 2.5" setup.

[rbrown]

If you say 180 Front would the 115-120 be balanced enough for the rear?

And looks like you use the larger diameter springs up front.

[Advancedynamix]

Well, because I'm doing this as a hobby things take a while. I'm not going to take orders or make promises. I'm just going to make a few sets and it will be first come first serve, but if I sell out I'll put the money back into making more for people, so no need to panic. But I do give all my settings and test results freely too everyone. If I'm keeping secrets it's only because I don't have sufficient testing to prove my theory. By the time it's posted on here, its been tested to work. 43000 miles on this setup so far.

[Festevil3]

I would like to be the first in line for a full setup...seriously

[Advancedynamix]

I get my springs through www.southwestspeed.com

You'll also need kia Rio (2001) strut bearings.

Also, I suggest a stiffer spring in the front, like atleast 180lb. With the b6t and g series your putting a lot more weight on the front wheels because the engine needs to be moved forward about an inch from the stock location. This added inch with the added weight of the heavier drive train relates to a lot more pressure on the front suspension. The 200lb springs on my car are very comfortable and perform well. The car rides smoother over bumps than stock

[rbrown]

Cool.

I am going to make me a set of homemade Rio front Festiva rear KYB coil overs then. I am going to have to search back through this whole thread again to find where you sourced your springs... aaaak. I think 140 F 115 R sound like some good rates to shoot for. That's like 27% over stock. Hopefully the Rio top hats will work straight up with the narrow springs.

[Advancedynamix]

I have everything lined up to do the rear shocks, but still need to set up to make the front struts. I'll probably make my own threaded bodies and buy strut inserts for a mk2 VW to go in them. Trying to keep the price below 800 for a full setup. I'll probably be ready to sell them early next year. I have a couple projects in front of them.

[rbrown]

Charlie you closer to producing these kits yet?

[Advancedynamix]

Ahhh I see,so what was the reason/advantage to running the Apire knuckle?

In order to fit an available "R" compound tire under uncut festiva fenders with the desired ride height, I needed to run 13" wheels. The Capri brakes are too large to run inside 13" wheels. That's why I had to swap them for the aspire brakes. I didn't notice any disadvantages on the track with the aspire brakes, and the R888 tires were a huge advantage. I think r compound tires on these cars is a bigger advantage than horsepower

[rbrown]

You are methodical and devote an unbelievable amount of time and effort to 'tweak' your rides. My hat is off to you sir!

My comparatively 'ghetto' version is an Aspire swap (incl front sway bar), Aspire Monroes, FMS springs and 14 inch 'all-weather' (no, they're not all-seasons) tires. But compared to a 'corner on it's doors' OEM Festy (two of which I also drive) the end result is a car that thoroughly satisfies me. 'Course I don't race this thing or do much of anything rash but after a goose hunt in a farmer's pasture the other night it was a hoot watching the pickup truck guys desperately trying to keep up around the fence rows and jogs on the bush road with me flying out front.

That would have been a fun video to see. Like dogs chasing a rabbit.

[nitrofarm]

Actually, with the Capri knuckles and Aspire arms I didn't have a problem. It wasn't until I swapped to Aspire knuckles that there was a problem. With Aspire arms the drivers side axle would pop out of the transmission when the suspension was at droop. With the Festiva control arms the passenger side axle would bind if I had more than -1 degree of camber. So I shortened the passenger side axle and ran the Festiva control arms.
Here is what I did.

I turned 0.100" off the thrust surface of the outer CV. This allowed the axle to slide further into the hub.


Then I turned .200" off the inner CV thrust surface so it can slide further onto the Intermediate shaft.


I then shortened the end of the intermediate shaft so the inner CV could slide further on the shaft.
This equaled about 0.300" shorter passenger side axle with no welding. It was all I needed to be able to set the car on it's bumpstops with -3 degrees camber and have zero axle bind on either side.

Ahhh I see,so what was the reason/advantage to running the Apire knuckle?

[Bert]

You are methodical and devote an unbelievable amount of time and effort to 'tweak' your rides. My hat is off to you sir!

My comparatively 'ghetto' version is an Aspire swap (incl front sway bar), Aspire Monroes, FMS springs and 14 inch 'all-weather' (no, they're not all-seasons) tires. But compared to a 'corner on it's doors' OEM Festy (two of which I also drive) the end result is a car that thoroughly satisfies me. 'Course I don't race this thing or do much of anything rash but after a goose hunt in a farmer's pasture the other night it was a hoot watching the pickup truck guys desperately trying to keep up around the fence rows and jogs on the bush road with me flying out front.

[Advancedynamix]

Actually, with the Capri knuckles and Aspire arms I didn't have a problem. It wasn't until I swapped to Aspire knuckles that there was a problem. With Aspire arms the drivers side axle would pop out of the transmission when the suspension was at droop. With the Festiva control arms the passenger side axle would bind if I had more than -1 degree of camber. So I shortened the passenger side axle and ran the Festiva control arms.
Here is what I did.

I turned 0.100" off the thrust surface of the outer CV. This allowed the axle to slide further into the hub.


Then I turned .200" off the inner CV thrust surface so it can slide further onto the Intermediate shaft.


I then shortened the end of the intermediate shaft so the inner CV could slide further on the shaft.
This equaled about 0.300" shorter passenger side axle with no welding. It was all I needed to be able to set the car on it's bumpstops with -3 degrees camber and have zero axle bind on either side.

[nitrofarm]

To be honest, I'm not sure. My engine/ trans is centered, but getting the axles to work took machine work that most people without a machine shop won't be able to easily do. I won't be doing that again that's for sure. Could it have worked out to tweaks advantage? That is very possible, as the handling characteristics of this car are phenomenal. Time will tell when I can compare cars with different engine mounting but the same suspension.

Was this when you you were using the Capri hubs? What did you machine...jus being curious.