Advanced Suspension Mods

[rbrown]

This setup allows for a 7" Wide rim in the rear without any cutting to the bodywork. This is a 15x7" rim with a 38MM offset tucked into the fender of a Festiva. Try that with a 2.5" coilover.

Did you roll those rear fender lips?

[Advancedynamix]

This brings up a point... which is actually better, centered for weight, or centered for axle spacing?

I don't understand what your asking.

Did you roll those rear fender lips?

Yes, I used several different diameters of aluminum round stock to roll and stretch the rear fenders. It takes patience and I didn't do a perfect job, but I was in too much of a hurry. If you are patient and do a little at a time you can stretch the festiva rear fenders out an inch or more without any noticeable change in body lines.

[alpaccino]

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Advancedynamix again.

Dern it.

If you are talking to me, i'm just learning and asking questions from my master during the process, lol

Good Question. The reason I didn't use the VW coilovers for the rear is because they are too long. With the car at the ride height That I wanted to run, they are bottomed out. Also, the KYB setup that I have uses the 1 7/8" springs which are not only a much lighter setup (very important on a FWD car) but also are lower profile and allow for a wider tire and more adjustment in the rear than the 2.5" coilovers do.

This setup allows for a 7" Wide rim in the rear without any cutting to the bodywork. This is a 15x7" rim with a 38MM offset tucked into the fender of a Festiva. Try that with a 2.5" coilover.

Thanks for that,i will see if i can get just the two front coilovers

[Advancedynamix]

If you have to buy all 4 I may buy the rears from you or exchange them in trade for labor on some modified rear KYB shocks. I'm saving the rear shock bodies to modify for a three way adjustable front strut setup(koni race inserts).
With that cat out of the bag, next year I will be testing a few other strut and shock combinations . I am building a set of bilstein40mm twin tube front shocks as well as a set of Koni2 way adjustable front shocks. I'll also be building a set of three way adjustable rear shocks. These setups will be used to get an even greater understanding of the potential of this chassis.

[Christ]

Adv - I was asking about centering the engine. The new forum is a bit of a changeup and I didn't quote the post properly, but you mentioned something about needing to move the engine to one side if you wanted to center the axles during the discussion about camber changes with different control arms.

I was asking if it would be better in general for an engine swap to center the weight of the engine/trans or to center it for the axles. Given that you only have about 3/4" to move around left to right and still have things working as they should.

[Advancedynamix]

To be honest, I'm not sure. My engine/ trans is centered, but getting the axles to work took machine work that most people without a machine shop won't be able to easily do. I won't be doing that again that's for sure. Could it have worked out to tweaks advantage? That is very possible, as the handling characteristics of this car are phenomenal. Time will tell when I can compare cars with different engine mounting but the same suspension.

[nitrofarm]

To be honest, I'm not sure. My engine/ trans is centered, but getting the axles to work took machine work that most people without a machine shop won't be able to easily do. I won't be doing that again that's for sure. Could it have worked out to tweaks advantage? That is very possible, as the handling characteristics of this car are phenomenal. Time will tell when I can compare cars with different engine mounting but the same suspension.

Was this when you you were using the Capri hubs? What did you machine...jus being curious.

[Advancedynamix]

Actually, with the Capri knuckles and Aspire arms I didn't have a problem. It wasn't until I swapped to Aspire knuckles that there was a problem. With Aspire arms the drivers side axle would pop out of the transmission when the suspension was at droop. With the Festiva control arms the passenger side axle would bind if I had more than -1 degree of camber. So I shortened the passenger side axle and ran the Festiva control arms.
Here is what I did.

I turned 0.100" off the thrust surface of the outer CV. This allowed the axle to slide further into the hub.


Then I turned .200" off the inner CV thrust surface so it can slide further onto the Intermediate shaft.


I then shortened the end of the intermediate shaft so the inner CV could slide further on the shaft.
This equaled about 0.300" shorter passenger side axle with no welding. It was all I needed to be able to set the car on it's bumpstops with -3 degrees camber and have zero axle bind on either side.

[Bert]

You are methodical and devote an unbelievable amount of time and effort to 'tweak' your rides. My hat is off to you sir!

My comparatively 'ghetto' version is an Aspire swap (incl front sway bar), Aspire Monroes, FMS springs and 14 inch 'all-weather' (no, they're not all-seasons) tires. But compared to a 'corner on it's doors' OEM Festy (two of which I also drive) the end result is a car that thoroughly satisfies me. 'Course I don't race this thing or do much of anything rash but after a goose hunt in a farmer's pasture the other night it was a hoot watching the pickup truck guys desperately trying to keep up around the fence rows and jogs on the bush road with me flying out front.

[nitrofarm]

Actually, with the Capri knuckles and Aspire arms I didn't have a problem. It wasn't until I swapped to Aspire knuckles that there was a problem. With Aspire arms the drivers side axle would pop out of the transmission when the suspension was at droop. With the Festiva control arms the passenger side axle would bind if I had more than -1 degree of camber. So I shortened the passenger side axle and ran the Festiva control arms.
Here is what I did.

I turned 0.100" off the thrust surface of the outer CV. This allowed the axle to slide further into the hub.


Then I turned .200" off the inner CV thrust surface so it can slide further onto the Intermediate shaft.


I then shortened the end of the intermediate shaft so the inner CV could slide further on the shaft.
This equaled about 0.300" shorter passenger side axle with no welding. It was all I needed to be able to set the car on it's bumpstops with -3 degrees camber and have zero axle bind on either side.

Ahhh I see,so what was the reason/advantage to running the Apire knuckle?

[rbrown]

You are methodical and devote an unbelievable amount of time and effort to 'tweak' your rides. My hat is off to you sir!

My comparatively 'ghetto' version is an Aspire swap (incl front sway bar), Aspire Monroes, FMS springs and 14 inch 'all-weather' (no, they're not all-seasons) tires. But compared to a 'corner on it's doors' OEM Festy (two of which I also drive) the end result is a car that thoroughly satisfies me. 'Course I don't race this thing or do much of anything rash but after a goose hunt in a farmer's pasture the other night it was a hoot watching the pickup truck guys desperately trying to keep up around the fence rows and jogs on the bush road with me flying out front.

That would have been a fun video to see. Like dogs chasing a rabbit.

[Advancedynamix]

Ahhh I see,so what was the reason/advantage to running the Apire knuckle?

In order to fit an available "R" compound tire under uncut festiva fenders with the desired ride height, I needed to run 13" wheels. The Capri brakes are too large to run inside 13" wheels. That's why I had to swap them for the aspire brakes. I didn't notice any disadvantages on the track with the aspire brakes, and the R888 tires were a huge advantage. I think r compound tires on these cars is a bigger advantage than horsepower

[rbrown]

Charlie you closer to producing these kits yet?

[Advancedynamix]

I have everything lined up to do the rear shocks, but still need to set up to make the front struts. I'll probably make my own threaded bodies and buy strut inserts for a mk2 VW to go in them. Trying to keep the price below 800 for a full setup. I'll probably be ready to sell them early next year. I have a couple projects in front of them.

[rbrown]

Cool.

I am going to make me a set of homemade Rio front Festiva rear KYB coil overs then. I am going to have to search back through this whole thread again to find where you sourced your springs... aaaak. I think 140 F 115 R sound like some good rates to shoot for. That's like 27% over stock. Hopefully the Rio top hats will work straight up with the narrow springs.