I would suggest some good quality MK3 VW front struts, and use coilover sleeves. 185 lb will be about right, but you could also go with a 165 lb spring, depending on how low you want the car to ride (softer spring rate for lower ride height.) The VW shocks will require some modification, but people have been able to make them fit with pretty simple hand tools, my method is kinda overkill for most. The gas adjusts on the back are a good idea, and they are pretty simple to fit up with the coilover sleeves and nuts from Southwest speed. I make my own top spring hats, sometimes I have spares that I sell for 41 shipped. The sleeves fit right on the shocks with only a little filing, and the shocks have a nice register on them to hold the sleeve in place without having to cut off a spring perch. The lower mounts need to be cut down a bit, and this is kind of a pain in the butt without proper tools, but with patience and some ingenuity, it can be done. 120 lb rear springs are a good choice, 10" springs will work, but it may be better to get 12" springs if you can. Luckily, 1 7/8" springs are pretty common on eBay.
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Originally posted by TominMO View PostSchool? What are you taking?Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Okay, been awhile since this has been updated. I'm still running my original raceland/KYB GR2 setup on my Time Attack car (Tweak). This system has held up to over 40K miles of pure abuse, and worked well for everything from the daily grind to crossing the country, to setting track records. I now have the spring rates dialed in to work well for everything. I run 10" 200lb per inch front springs, and 8" 150 lb per inch rear springs. This setup works well with a b6t/g15mr combo mounted 2" further forward than the b3/eseries. I could use a little bit more dampening in the rear, but all in all it is an awesome package. I run 1/16 (total, measured with standard size toe plates) toe out front and rear, -2.5 degrees camber front and rear with about 1.25 inches of travel before using the 1.5" bump stops front and rear. The rear has about 1.5" of droop. Car is stable up to about 150mph, steps out slightly under hard braking but it's manageable.
Watch THIS VIDEO till the end to see this setup soak up bumps and corners with ease, while also putting approximately 170 ft.lbs to the ground with an open diff.Last edited by Advancedynamix; 12-04-2013, 07:48 PM.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Reading Charlie's most recent posts makes more anxious to get going on my B6T project.
Sent from somewhere west of here via Tapatalk!Ian
Calgary AB, Canada
93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite
"It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)
Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog
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Looking good.. Love the stripes on the bonnet... Do like the flow of that car.. The only things I can add would be a speedo and rev light to know when to change gears... I remember reading somewhere that you can add a Rev light into a Festiva from the factory electronics.. It was labelled in the 92 electronics schematics somewhere.
sent from the depths of hell.Last edited by jawbraeka; 12-05-2013, 01:16 AM.Ford Festiva 1991 WA Model (5 Door)
Nicknamed the car 'The Chiva' (Chilli Festiva)
Avg Economy:
Highway - 7.32L/100km
City - yet to be determined.
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In a perfect world what is optimal front to rear rake on these chassis? If you are happy with front to rear springs and damping... how do you like to set up the rake? Thx- anyone can chime in,just want to hear what you guys like on these short wheelbase cars-Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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No one ?Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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Hey thanks that helps a lot.Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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I like mine SLIGHTLY lower in front. 1/2 inch maybe?Dan
Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO
Black 1992 Festiva GL Sport - BLACK MAGIC
I'm just...a little slow... sometimes:withstupid:
R.I.P.
Blue 1972 Chevelle SS-468 C.I.D. B'nM TH400-4:56 posi-Black racing stripes-Black vinyl top-Black int.
Black on black 1976 Camaro LT-350 4 bolt main .060 over
Silver 1988 Festiva L
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Originally posted by drddan View PostI like mine SLIGHTLY lower in front. 1/2 inch maybe?Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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Firstly you would need to specify what will you be doing with the car. Dd, track, drag, rally. They all require different settings.
I think it comes down to making sure you're in the right range of shock travel, as well as maintaining the right centre of gravity.
I need to do some r&d to see how mine would suit my driving style. But I would kick off level and start adjusting from there.
I'm sure charlie would have better input here.1988 MAZDA 121- B6T + G5MR SWAP IN PROGRESS.
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