Stiffer Motor Mounts

[kellen302]

How does Window Weld compare to these other solutions? I've heard of lots of people using it and I have a couple mounts that I might have to cannibalize from the wrecked Protege and the rubber parts are torn. Just curious if this internet myth is also internet truth.
Thanks Heaps

[gorgonheimer]

I've used window weld, it sucks. The pieces that formed in the voids popped out on first drive.

[rickbz28]

The rear Aspire mount is 2 piece like the front mount but the thru bolt hole is in a different location.One is centered and the other is offset,can't remember which is which and can't look at he moment.

[Advancedynamix]

How does Window Weld compare to these other solutions? I've heard of lots of people using it and I have a couple mounts that I might have to cannibalize from the wrecked Protege and the rubber parts are torn. Just curious if this internet myth is also internet truth.
Thanks Heaps

Window weld is usually a silicone type rubber and doesn't adhere to petroleum rubbers very well. The loctite polyurethane will adhere to the the rubber in the motor mount as long as the rubber is clean and free of oil. The two part polyurethane bonds to the rubber in the motor mount.

[Advancedynamix]

I assumed the rear aspire mount is the same as the festiva mount. Are they different?

The aspire mount is similar to the front trans mount but I think it's off center. I haven't tried using one, it's just a thought. But, if it could fit into a festiva it would solve a couple problems. It could be poly filled for a variety of different durometer choices and it could solve the problem for those of us that have auto trans festivas and broken rear mounts. The auto aspire mount may fit, because the manual festiva one doesn't without modification.

[Christ]

If you want to use Windo-weld, you actually strip all the rubber out of the mount after jigging it (nail into a piece of wood to set the bushing, trace the outside of the mount to set the proper clearance), after all the rubber is gone and the part is clean, you put a couple greased tubes in a circular pattern around the bushing (because you don't really want a SOLID mount), run a bead of latex around the bottom of the mount (or glue it in place), and start slowly filling it with Windo-Weld. About every 4 hours, you can add another layer of no more than 3/8" thickness until the mount is filled.

Wait 24 hours and keep it out of direct sunlight but in a warmish place, then use a pair of pliers to remove the greased tubes and put it back on the car.

If you actually want SOLID mounts, just weld fender washers into the mount after you clean it out of all the rubber. One in the middle and one on each end, then slide the bushing back through and tack it at each end (or finish weld it, either way), then reinstall the mount to the car after painting.

[kellen302]

That's good to know, I might have to use that technique, hopefully not, but I might.

[Christ]

In place of the tubes, you can use large bolts. The benefit, of course, is that they thread out, so you have an easier time removing them if the silicone sticks.