Home depot rear strut bar, and hatch cross bar.

[getnpsi]

Is the flex higher up a better idea overall than at the bottom of the car? Let's say you tore off the rear bumper to add a oem cover from something else and just used what was lying around. There is still metal tying it together but it's lighter and I can't pull a trailer anymore Doesnt matter, or just addressing the travel of the shocks in the back? YES bind of anykind is bad if it snaps another direction and you aren't ready for it. I've had front binding suspension from bad shock bearing and its like you are driving in a crosswind, not pleasant at all.

[Advancedynamix]

Is the flex higher up a better idea overall than at the bottom of the car? Let's say you tore off the rear bumper to add a oem cover from something else and just used what was lying around. There is still metal tying it together but it's lighter and I can't pull a trailer anymore Doesnt matter, or just addressing the travel of the shocks in the back? YES bind of anykind is bad if it snaps another direction and you aren't ready for it. I've had front binding suspension from bad shock bearing and its like you are driving in a crosswind, not pleasant at all.

The stock festiva shell is extremely rigid for it's weight. And will handle the traction available from any tire that will fit in it's arches with ease.
Bustiva may be trying to reinforce the rear of the car because of the rigidity that was lost when the fenders were compromised. He is also running wider stance than what a stock festiva can handle, which puts more strain on the body of the car. He is charting fairly new territory in this aspect, so it will take trial and error. I have been down this road before with very similar cars ( my learning curve was on a 1981 scirocco s track car that was widened with a zender wide body). My comments were concerning the fact that he has essentially braced a suspension pivot point to make it solid. This usually causes damage to components, but I most definitely could be wrong. Trying to be helpful in the search for the best cornering setup.

[DriverOne]

My comments were concerning the fact that he has essentially braced a suspension pivot point to make it solid. This usually causes damage to components.

In the case that this is in fact the situation, and keeping with the HD 'sponsorship,' would gate hinges help to resolve the issue with the rear strut bar (i.e., one at either end, mounted to the bar and strut tower)?

[Advancedynamix]

In the case that this is in fact the situation, and keeping with the HD 'sponsorship,' would gate hinges help to resolve the issue with the rear strut bar (i.e., one at either end, mounted to the bar and strut tower)?

If you could position them on tangent with the shock mount pivot fulcrum then yes, this would do the trick. Lol

[scitzz]

I have had two ideas along these lines. One was to go forward of the rear strut tower, and up a few inches, tie into the body there, and then run to the floor pretty much in the center. Then, straight across.

The other was to reinforce the support rails along the bottom of the car, and put an X between them.

I am curious how this one will turn out!

[BUSTIVA]

If you could position them on tangent with the shock mount pivot fulcrum then yes, this would do the trick. Lol

I was actually thinking about ditching both current bars in favor of running a x bar from the hatch mount to the oppisite side strut mount. The conduit should have enough give to not bind the suspension, and each stut would have its own idependent bar, instead of being tied together...

[zoom zoom]

What about putting a mild strut/dampener between the strut towers so it will still flex, but keep pressure against flex to keep things stiff? Something like a washing machine dampener.

[Advancedynamix]

I would just unbolt those hooks that hold the rear seat back and bolt a bar in there and then triangulate from there to the rear lower seat belt mounting points. I just made a crossbar that goes across the B pillars in my car. It bolts where the manual seatbelts would (mine came with the auto ones, but I tossed all the rails and junk). This was mostly to use as a harness bar and I didn't notice any handling advantages from it. If there was a torsional twist problem in these cars this bar would definitely make a difference, it's 1.75" .090" wall 4130 chromoly and it was annealed after being tig welded. It bolts in 4 places with grade 12 hardware. It's stiff to say the least.
Here are a few pictures I took while I was making the bar. It's now powdercoated satin black and my harnesses are wrapped around it. It also works good as a camera mount.



I ran a tight string across many points of the car and monitored the strings with cameras where they crossed and pushed the limits of the car on a skid pad to monitor chassis flex (before making my harness bar). These cars have very little chassis flex, even with R compound rubber.

[BUSTIVA]

Finally got to try out the bars, along with the rear beam threaded rod mod. I absolutely love the way it handles now. I little tail happy, but that's how I like it. I can really throw the car around and have amazing control with left foot braking. I really can't say it enough, its perfect for my driving preference.

[BUSTIVA]

I need that!!! :eeeeeek: Super Jelly! :p

[scitzz]

I think Casper had a similar mod as well.