hub rings huge center bore on old school mags?

[getnpsi]

I'm in suspense! fix your link!

[bobbyspider]

lol oops

http://www.billetspecialties.com/assets/1/23/DimLarge/MagShankClosed_A.png

long shank goes all the way through the wheel and is basicly kept by a bloody washer

[getnpsi]

oooh interesting, that is what the guy gave me in the bag of hardware. They were on a 1980 celica, which were off a Datsun of some sort before that. Ill get pics tomorrow, gotta brag about the California no salt etched wheelie deelies

[bobbyspider]

ol school Datsun 510 is what mine came off of. these look familiar?

[getnpsi]

^^ cool. I wanted some lib's but they want way too much for them out here. If you do some craigslisting in orange county right now there are a LOT of old school 70s and 80s Japanese items, market is flooded but nothing you really want to own, unlike all the cool stuff Canadians can get and actually register. In California if they see you in RHD its instant impound and crush I've heard.

[TominMO]

Hubcentric rings are unnecessary. Do what zoom said and tighten them hand-tight, making sure all of the bolts are seated. Then torque to spec; I use 80 lbs myself.

All this is easier of course if you switch to studs. I like these EMPI ones: http://www.jbugs.com/product/9533.ht...els-studs-nuts It doesn't specifically say, but yes they are 12x1.5. You can also get them without the nuts if you have others you want to use. I bought three sets, giving me only 15. Didn't want to buy another set just to get the one more I needed! Used an aftermarket lug bolt for that one.

Oh BTW concerning lug bolts: aftermarket aluminum rims are typically thicker in the conical area where the lug bolt contacts the wheel. Using the short-cone stock lug bolts will likely result in shaking at hwy speeds, because the alum. wheel is not snugged down enough. Aftermarket lug bolts have a longer conical area and solve this problem. But they are at least as expensive as just buying the studs with nuts, and the studs make mounting the rim easier.

[bobbyspider]

^ then drive it and after about 50 mi check the torque again and make sure they are still good. I would check mine about every 100 mi or so after that

[TominMO]

I never check mine and it's fine.

[lessersivad]

I just picked up some 0 offset jelly bean 14 inch wheels the center bore appears to be about 90 millimeters I cannot find Rings. If you do a lot of searching there is a 92 millimeter which perhaps is what I have but you just get a lot of engine pistons hits. I also do not see any of the shelf Festiva Size bore nvert to something that large what do i do here

OK. I'm throwing my 2¢ into the mix.

I take it you bought this type of wheel;

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/american-racing-vna69-ansen-sprint-polished-wheels

What I call "aluminum slots".

You will need the "shanked" style lug nuts you received with the wheels. IF they are the same size and thread pitch, (easily checked by taking one of your stock lug BOLTS and attempting to screw it into one of the lug nuts you got with the wheels), then you will need to purchase screw in lug STUDS to be able to use the nuts. If the lug bolt is too small or the wrong thread pitch you will need to purchase the correct hardware. (Any place that sells aftermarket wheels should have these available, along with they should have just the screw in studs.)

Now before you get all giddy about installing the wheels you need to take one of the lug nuts WITH a washer and insert it into one of the lug holes of a wheel.

Check from the back side to make sure the shank does NOT end up past the back of the mounting surface of the wheel. (Yea I know a previous owner said they were off of such and such car and was mounted on something else before that. It don't take long to check.) It should actually be a little shy of poking all the way thru the wheel by 1/16" to 1/8" so the shank doesn't bottom out before the wheel it tight against the hub/drum.

Next check all of the nuts to be sure they fit the holes without a lot of side to side slop.

After everything checks out and you have all the correct hardware install the studs (red "loctite" has been used by some one the end that screws into the hub/drum).

Install the wheels, snugging the nuts as evenly as you can then tighten.

Take for a short test drive and recheck the lug nuts. Drive 50-100 miles and recheck again.

(Aluminum wheels can do some strange things after a few heat/cool cycles)


This style wheel has been around a LONG time and any of the ones I've ever seen come from the aftermarket that were bolted one were NOT used with center hub spacer rings and they were on a lot heavier cars vs. a Festiva. A lot of them didn't even have a dedicated bolt pattern but rather the lug holes were elongated so you could bolt them onto a Ford or a Chevy. (5 lug patterns).


Sorry for the long reply and i hope this helps.

[Movin]

If you swap wheels twice every weekend the threaded holes will wear out. As said, loctited studs rock!