4x100 Redrill Template

[eurotiva]

I bolted my drum inside a loose dual pattern wheel. Im curious how this works out for you. I regularly go 100+ mph ( @the track) and any out of roundness will multiply at those speeds.

We have a local wheel shop, that will Redrill wheels, but they won't touch a drum

[Advancedynamix]

Mental Mark has the last powerstop drums I could find new. I have a couple of used sets that I'm hoarding. I hope this works out for you.

[sketchman]

Just found and bought some on eBay. Got an actual photo by the seller to make sure. I'm in business.

I also did some digging that might provide an even easier way to do this. Would require machining, but you'd end up with 4x100 with a stock drum 10mm larger in diameter than the Festiva part and only 1.5lb heavier. Comes studded too. The issue is the inner bearing. The outer one fits the stock axle stub. The inner one's outer diameter is 1.85" vs the Festiva's 1.98". The bearings are also spread farther apart. So you'd just need (in theory of course) to open up and deepen the inner bearing bore and take the height of the tube that the bore is in down a bit and it should work very nicely. If there's enough material.

84 Toyota Tercel drum. Hatchback model.

[Advancedynamix]

What does that fit? If it's cheaper than a festiva drum then we may have a good alternative. Some of the weight will be shed by boring the outer bearing land, and the studs make up some weight difference too. Also, I have noticed the powerstop drums do weigh more than the stock drums anyway.

[sketchman]

84 Toyota Tercel. The hatchback model specifically.

[Spike]

$9 on Rockauto.com.

Snazzy.

[sketchman]

^You have to be careful though. There were 2 designs. One floating and one drum/hub combo like the Festiva's.

[Advancedynamix]

84 Toyota Tercel. The hatchback model specifically.

Don't see those in the yard too often these days, even in these parts.

[Safety Guy]

There's only one of those $9.50 AIMCO drums at Rockauto on wholesaler closeout. If somecan will buy that and have it machined as a test, and it works well, then I would suggest the Centric Premium drums for $17.96, which is $1.46 more than their regular drums. From there, Raybestos PG is over $28 and others go over $30.

If this works I might even do it. I do like me some Aspire rear axle assemblies, ya know!

One more thing: If this Tercel hub flange diameter is the same as later Corollas (the Tercel was a Corolla!), then it will be an exact hubcentric fit for 4 X 100mm Kia, Mazda & Toyota wheels. Niiiiice!

Now, how much is the machining gonna cost? (I bet it will cost less per drum if you take 4 to 6 drums in at once to do.)

Karl

[sketchman]

^Again, be careful. That one you mention is the floating style. Look at the VIN it refs. It's the same as the ones above it that are the floating drop on style drum only.

The cheapest one that has the chance of working is BD6074 at around $16 on closeout and goes up from there. The nice thing about the idea is that you can do it all with a lathe. No mill required.

[Safety Guy]

Okay, I see what you meant now.

Karl

[sketchman]

K has done it. No results yet other than they are drilled and studded like a cheap hooker, but she's tasteful.

What I did to make sure I had the best chance of success.

1. Use the super awesome templates that I uploaded.
2. DO NOT use regular drill bits. Use 2 sizes of step/christmas tree bits instead. Why? Because they make their own pilot holes AND they flex SO much less than a normal bit. You don't have to make sure each successive bigger bit is lined up and worry about keeping them centered. They do it for you. Get the punch and the first tiniest hole lined up, and the rest cannot get off center. They can't. The ONLY time you use a regular drill bit is for the last step up. So what I did was to step drill up to 1/2" and then use that 1/2" perfectly centered hole to slip in a regular 1/2" bit to finish it off.
3. Lock your drill press "pad"? out. This not only keeps the thing still rotation wise, but it also keeps the pad from flexing downward and throwing off your hole.
4. Go SLOW. You want as little pressure as possible all the time. Just enough to cut. The harder you press the more the thing flexes and the more the hole gets out of line.
5. Be ANAL about that first hole and the punch lineup. The point should be exactly between and at the ends of the 2 converging lines. Not on top. Not beyond. Mess this up, and you are hosed obviously.

Only pics for now are of them on a shelf. I will get them bearing'ed and lubed and installed ASAP, and I will post results + or - as soon as I have them.



Results when I have them.

EDIT: Oh, and I used stock studs from a Ford Taurus. They are cheap, and they seem to be a perfect size for this. The 1/2" hole is extremely tight for the knurl. I tried hammering them in, and I gave up. Had to press them in, but IMO that's better anyway. Just a bit more aggravation.

[sam]

Are these festiva drums with Taurus studs?

[sketchman]

Yessir. Dorman part # 610365. $1.03 each from RockAuto.

[sam]

Sweet! Looks like I'm contemplating to go back to the festiva axles for weight savings. ���� very nice!