new/better/more piston brakes

[Advancedynamix]

Don't get me started on bean counters. Ugh!

[jaketlong11]

is that why my car didn't stop they glazed over?

[Dragonhealer]

Depends on the symptoms, Was the brake pedal high or low, hard or soft when you hit the brakes?
Did one or more wheels lock up? When you hit the brakes, did the front end dive down firmly?

[Dragonhealer]

I had an "argument" with a member on another forum about the low quality and non functioning parts coming from rebuilders these days. She was adamant that companies wouldn't risk sending out bad parts. I've had quite a few bad parts right out of the box. A friend of my dad was a quality control inspector for a major home A/C manufacturer. He said parts that he would mark as unsatisfactory would wind up being used because the bean counters wanted it that way.

Rebuilder liability, insurance + LLC.

[Advancedynamix]

is that why my car didn't stop they glazed over?

Possibly. I tried a few different sets of ceramic pads on Tweak and they were horrible. The Capri brakes were worse than stock festiva brakes. Then I installed a used set of pads that I borrowed from a car at PAP and it was night and day. The cheapo pads I got from the junk yard stopped great. That's when I tossed those ceramic pads in the trash and bought a new set of cheap organic pads. Pedro has cheap organics on the Aspire brakes and it stops better than any of my other cars.

[jaketlong11]

my car dives but doesn't lock the brakes. the pedal feels like it should

[Dragonhealer]

sounds like rear brakes are frozen out or pads and rotors are glazed. Try stopping suddenly on gravel or dirt from 3-5mph and get out and see that you have 4 skid marks.

[sketchman]

I had an "argument" with a member on another forum about the low quality and non functioning parts coming from rebuilders these days. She was adamant that companies wouldn't risk sending out bad parts. I've had quite a few bad parts right out of the box. A friend of my dad was a quality control inspector for a major home A/C manufacturer. He said parts that he would mark as unsatisfactory would wind up being used because the bean counters wanted it that way.

I just got a bad "brand new" CV axle. They didn't machine the recess for the ABS ring far enough so it's off center of the sensor. Changed the axle to fix that issue, and now have to change it again.

[jaketlong11]

everythings new accept the spindle backing plate and self adjuster but I cleaned all of them and wire wheeled the self adjuster so it was unfrozen and worked again

[jaketlong11]

what are the best hubs to get?

[Advancedynamix]

Probably Aspire or Rio if you're asking about the fronts.

[rmoltis]

I'm a fan of ebc brakes, they work great on both vehicles.
I have the Kevlar pads on my 08 corolla (yellow stuff)and they bite so hard even during light braking I love it.
They do better than the green stuff Pads.
Which were the last set it had on which were also great over stock.

I had to lock my tires up 2 mornings ago due to 2 people cutting me off in morning traffic to ""get ahead"".
Immediately after they got over and kept tailgaiting.
The car in front of them both had to lock up their tires.
Sending the 2 tailgaters into lockup as well.
And seeing as I didn't have enough time to add enough distance from them b4 it happenned.
My only choice was to use my brakes. I tried to keep them on the edge of locking up without.
But I needed a more braking power than the wheels would hold to the ground.
They saved my butt.

And on the aspire I have the ebc redstuff pads.
They work exceptionally well.
Will try next pad up the ladder next brake change interval so I get the full experience of each level.


Just remember blank rotors will work the best for a street vehicle.
Don't use drilled or slotted rotors.
I have used drilled/slotted, drilled, slotted all separately on my aspires.
when I went back to blank they worked the best it was the pad upgrades that have made the biggest difference.

Pads are designed to turn kinetic energy into heat via friction against the rotors.
And rotors are designed to wick the heat away from the brake pads
They have a certain amount of mass designed to be able to effectively dissipate heat from the pads without warping.
As well as a secondary function which is to retain some heat
as to keep the pads warmed up during use to keep them in their optimal temperature zones.

When you use drilled or slotted rotors it reduces the amount of surface area touching the pads.
Thus lowering the rotors efficiency at wicking heat away from the brake pads as well as having a lower overall mass.
Making the rotors heat up and cool down quicker (more prone to warp)
What this means is when you go to use your brakes (most noticeable in colder climates)
They will be very cold and not be as effective initially, while gaining bite during the slow down as they warm up.
And once you think they're warmed up and drive a couple more miles down the road.
You'll notice they have cooled too far yet again.

Do your self a favor and stick with blank rotors.
Finding a quality pad engineered for higher temperature usage will gain you better traction
ceramic are great for that. I've always had great success running them on all cars.

[sketchman]

I had solid rotors on my Aspire/Rio swap and successfully warped them, and they were practically new. Pads were barely broken in. I was also able to make semi-metallic (Raybestos SGD466M) pads on solid rotors fade pretty easily.

I like Charlie's way better. Use really bite-y pads and let them destroy and vent themselves. I would imagine the combo of "weak" pads that bite cold and a rotor that vents would stop too much heat from building in the first place and therefore lengthen their life while still stopping fade.

[rmoltis]

I had solid rotors on my Aspire/Rio swap and successfully warped them, and they were practically new. Pads were barely broken in. I was also able to make semi-metallic (Raybestos SGD466M) pads on solid rotors fade pretty easily.

I like Charlie's way better. Use really bite-y pads and let them destroy and vent themselves. I would imagine the combo of "weak" pads that bite cold and a rotor that vents would stop too much heat from building in the first place and therefore lengthen their life while still stopping fade.

I always suggest people experiment themselves with these things.
Nothing beats first hand experience with different combinations.

Charlie could give his opinion, I could give mine, dragon could give his.
And they could all be different/viable options.

It really comes down to your relative situation and use
that will make the ultimate decision as to what works best.
There is always more than 1 right answer.

[sketchman]

There is always more than 1 right answer.

Agreed. I never mean to sound dogmatic if I do.