Building the ultimate Festiva street suspension...

[Advancedynamix]

for the front you make the mounting holes on the coilover body bigger. This allows you to simply push the knuckle back into the coilovers body more.

For the rear you need moog camber toe shims.

This is a picture of what Mike is saying. Notice how the top holes are elongated. This allows the knuckles to be adjusted. Since the VW shocks have more space between the mounting holes and the strut body, you can get way more adjustment than what is possible with Festiva, Aspire or Kia struts.

[Advancedynamix]

The moog shims will only get you a degree or so of negative camber. To get 2.5 or more degrees you'll have to get creative as there is no product that's available. Some people stack washers between the stub axle and the beam. I made steel camber shims that are adjustable. These are quite involved and cost a couple hundred dollars a set to make.

[mikemounlio]

for the front you make the mounting holes on the coilover body bigger. This allows you to simply push the knuckle back into the coilovers body more.

For the rear you need moog camber toe shims.

[alpaccino]

A limited quantity will be available through the Festiva store in about a month. First come first serve.
Camber can be adjusted from 0 to -3.5 degrees in the front. The rear requires spacers to adjust the camber. -2.5 degrees camber rides great and doesn't wear tires so long as your toe is minimal. Toe is what wears tires, not camber. If negative camber with toe in or out will wear the inside edges, positive will wear the outside neutral will wear evenly, but the toe causes the wear. I run 0 toe in all 4 corners for the best performance, fuel mileage and tire life.

I have purchased all the components for the ultimate suspension build and im dying to install them, however i want to run those camber settings, what spacers/washers to buy, and how is it achieved at the front, camber bolts? Is there a partnumber or item link when ww can purchase these.

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[Advancedynamix]

A limited quantity will be available through the Festiva store in about a month. First come first serve.
Camber can be adjusted from 0 to -3.5 degrees in the front. The rear requires spacers to adjust the camber. -2.5 degrees camber rides great and doesn't wear tires so long as your toe is minimal. Toe is what wears tires, not camber. If negative camber with toe in or out will wear the inside edges, positive will wear the outside neutral will wear evenly, but the toe causes the wear. I run 0 toe in all 4 corners for the best performance, fuel mileage and tire life.

[errjam]

whats the ride height like after change any before and after shots, is the camber negative or can it be set to zero for tire wear

[Cory_Thurmond]

When is my question lol

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[fasteva]

Where can these be purchased


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[TominMO]

The 5 sets that I'm building initially will have 120/120 so you guys should be fine. The 105lb springs are great if you want to go really low and don't intend to carry much load, but that's only a small percentage of the community. The 120/120 combo is the most versatile.
The Actual spring rate on the car is closer to 180/140 when the car is at rest. The number that is painted on the spring doesn't tell much.

Perfect, thanks!

[Advancedynamix]

The 5 sets that I'm building initially will have 120/120 so you guys should be fine. The 105lb springs are great if you want to go really low and don't intend to carry much load, but that's only a small percentage of the community. The 120/120 combo is the most versatile.
The Actual spring rate on the car is closer to 180/140 when the car is at rest. The number that is painted on the spring doesn't tell much.

[TominMO]

Charlie, on the coilover sets you are doing for Ben, what spring rates are you using front/rear? Are you necessarily making them all the same, or is there room for input from committed buyers? I want 120# on front, and DrFestiva88 (who is splitting a set with me) wants 120# as well, for the rear (he has 150# front).

[mikemounlio]

I went with 12" and love mine. Never had the 10" so i cant say anything about them but the 12 inch is great. Also i have not done any test n tune on them. I just simply put them on and set the front to the same. Once the front end is all good to go i will adjust then drive then adjust repeat. So for just tossing them on i love it.

[Advancedynamix]

A 12" long 120lb spring has a slower rate rise than a 10" long 120lb spring. The length doesn't affect ride height, so long as the shock has enough length for full adjustment of both springs.
I prefer the slower rate rise on these cars. The 12" long spring gives more room for preload adjustment than the 10" long spring.

[Fecomatter]

No, 10" will work too. I just prefer to have as much adjustability as possible.

could you possibly elaborate more on this. I'm also confused on the 10" vs 12" front springs.

[Zman86]

I've contacted the guy that runs the store about buying a set, thanks for doing this!


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