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quick ratio steering rack

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    I smell plans for custom work

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    Nothing exists that can act like that. The Festiva knuckle hub to ball joint measurement is as close as you can get without interfering with the CV joint. To raise the car without changing the geometry, the hub and ball joint would have to move closer together.

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Sorry for the derail, but on that note, what knuckle would raise the car the most for more ground clearance without suspension geometry change?

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    According to Dragonhealer, the Rio's steering arm is shorter than the Aspire. I think he's talking about 03-05. The Festiva arm is the shortest that I've seen.
    The Capri turbo and non turbo have the exact same knuckle from what I've seen. This knuckle has a longer ball joint to hub centerline dimension. Basically, the Capri knuckle works like a drop spindle.

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  • dliverance
    replied
    Thank you guys.

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  • skeeters_keeper
    replied
    Originally posted by dliverance View Post
    I saw that. I'm asking if anyone has this steering ratio

    "A steering ratio of x:y means that a turn of the steering wheel x degree(s) causes the wheel(s) to turn y degree(s). In most passenger cars, the ratio is between 12:1 and 20:1. For example, if one complete turn of the steering wheel, 360 degrees, causes the wheels to turn 24 degrees, the ratio is then 360:24 = 15:1."
    That changes based on the knuckle you're running. The stock knuckle has the OTR boss closer than, say, an aspire knuckle. I think Rio and aspire knuckles are the same, but some folks run capri knuckles and they may be different. There have been a few other knuckle swaps as well.

    So it's just easier to measure at the rack, to avoid the knuckle issue all together.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    We've just been going with overall turns lock to lock.

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    If you can find one for Festiva stock rack, I'm sure the geometry won't be too different that you can't derive then new ratio. Why do you need to know?

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  • dliverance
    replied
    I saw that. I'm asking if anyone has this steering ratio

    "A steering ratio of x:y means that a turn of the steering wheel x degree(s) causes the wheel(s) to turn y degree(s). In most passenger cars, the ratio is between 12:1 and 20:1. For example, if one complete turn of the steering wheel, 360 degrees, causes the wheels to turn 24 degrees, the ratio is then 360:24 = 15:1."







    .

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Originally posted by skeeters_keeper View Post
    Finally got my hands on a rio rack over the weekend. Here's the updated measurements list.

    ................Ratio (in/rev) Throw
    Festiva (manual) 1.310” 4.34”

    Festiva (power) 1.645” 4.34”

    Aspire (manual) 1.310” 4.83”

    03 Kia Rio (power) 1.555” 5.28"
    .

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  • dliverance
    replied
    does anyone have the actual steering ratio for all of these?

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Looks like O'Reilly Auto has the Festy PS rack for ~$150 remanufactured.
    Line: MPP | Part # 101-0159

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  • reddragon
    replied
    Originally posted by 2festi View Post
    awesome info here.
    will report back with the aussie version.
    wb 1.3 no ps 4 turns lock to lock.
    wd 1.5 ps 3 turns lock to lock.
    fitting the wd ps to the wb.
    To add to this, mazda DW 121 PS rack is 3 turns lock to lock.
    I havent fitted to my DA 121 yet, but turning the shaft by hand it feels very light - ie. Unpowered DW rack feels lighter than the DA manual rack

    Also, some later model Mazda 2 (Demio/DE/2011ish) have an electric powered steering rack, would be interesting to see if they would bolt in.

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  • festyfreak39
    replied
    Originally posted by Skrapbob View Post
    I removed the u-joint from the column and then removed it from the rack on my workbench. Reinstalled to the new rack and the had someone on the inside feed it through the firewall while I installed the rack.
    I did happen to have the column out (loosened, not removed) already to change the pedal assembly to add a clutch. The column is pretty simple to loosen, but not sure it is required to change the rack.
    I never had to mess with the boot.
    thanks man

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  • Skrapbob
    replied
    I removed the u-joint from the column and then removed it from the rack on my workbench. Reinstalled to the new rack and the had someone on the inside feed it through the firewall while I installed the rack.
    I did happen to have the column out (loosened, not removed) already to change the pedal assembly to add a clutch. The column is pretty simple to loosen, but not sure it is required to change the rack.
    I never had to mess with the boot.
    Last edited by Skrapbob; 12-13-2016, 07:50 PM.

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