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Dragonhealer (ghetto rear camber)

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
    Yeah, but make sure you know what is the vehicle centerline if the stub axle at the desired ride height. Like Dragonhealer said, as the beam rotates, the alignment changes. You must set the camber and toe for the desired beam angle. It's hard to get it right with 1 try. I've dedicated hundreds of hours to dialing in the rear on my cars.
    These cars are unstable with toe out in the rear (probably why Rosie is "darty" unloaded). It is important to understand that negative camber turns into toe out as the beam droops. As the beam compresses the negative camber turns into toe in. It's best to set the car up with a hair of toe in at the desired ride height.
    It sounds to me like you could just put the thick end of the camber plate at the rear position, if you just wanted to toe it in a little, and weren't concerned with neg. camber. Would that be a reasonable thing to do?
    Last edited by TominMO; 05-23-2016, 12:36 PM.
    90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
    09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

    You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

    Disaster preparedness

    Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

    Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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    • #17
      Camber and toe adjust together. You don't want uneven camber or toe, as it will cause the car to pull to one side. I do my own alignments just like Nate (skeeters_keeper) described. Less than the cost of an alignment (at most shops) for all the tools to do it yourself. I've fixed a bunch of bad alignments, that were done with state of the art equipment, with my simple tools. We've set up race cars with this stuff for decades, so I know I can trust it.
      Last edited by Advancedynamix; 05-23-2016, 06:24 PM.
      Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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      • #18
        Charlie, I know you have made custom camber/toe plates for your Festys. Using the left wheel as the example, do you have the thick part of the plate go from about the 2 o'clock position to the 7 o'clock? Or is that a racing trade secret?
        90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
        09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

        You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

        Disaster preparedness

        Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

        Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

        Comment


        • #19
          I'd love to learn how to do it.

          I know you can't really do much with caster on these cars with the stock components. But would a caster adjustment be of any benefit if it could be done?
          I know I wouldn't dare to adjust caster without power steering unless I had arms like arnie in the 80's
          1988 MAZDA 121- B6T + G5MR SWAP IN PROGRESS.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by TominMO View Post
            Charlie, I know you have made custom camber/toe plates for your Festys. Using the left wheel as the example, do you have the thick part of the plate go from about the 2 o'clock position to the 7 o'clock? Or is that a racing trade secret?
            I keep no secrets with the setup on these cars.
            The clocking of the taper is completely dependant on the angle of the spacer plate and the angle of the beam. If your car has a festiva beam and is lowered about 3" then a 3.5 degree spacer should sit at about the 1 O-clock position assuming that the top rear bolt hole is 12 O clock. This is very generic and may not actually work on your car. This is why I do not sell these parts to the general public. If this is done wrong, it could result in toe out in the rear (and/or unequal toe settings), which is dangerous on the street in these cars. They spin like tops under mid corner braking.
            Last edited by Advancedynamix; 05-25-2016, 11:18 AM.
            Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by moz View Post
              I'd love to learn how to do it.

              I know you can't really do much with caster on these cars with the stock components. But would a caster adjustment be of any benefit if it could be done?
              I know I wouldn't dare to adjust caster without power steering unless I had arms like arnie in the 80's
              It's really easy Maurice. Once you do it, you'll wonder why you ever paid a shop to do it.
              Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                It's really easy Maurice. Once you do it, you'll wonder why you ever paid a shop to do it.
                Charlie how do you accurately find toe there's the tape measure trick but that's never perfect string doesn't work because it's based off the rear so you cant adjust the rear so how?

                Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
                Festiver
                93 L find/5 speed
                BP/g15mr swapped
                Aspire brake swapped
                Enough little mods I can spend a week trying to remember and still not get them all
                stripped and sold due to rust

                89 festie
                rustful
                maybe v8 maybe field buggy wont know till the time comes

                93 festie
                advanced suspension
                kai/skeeter camber
                b3t/g15mr

                I will own a bpt cd-5 gtx clone one day

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by skeeters_keeper View Post
                  charlie is the expert here, but I use a simple set of toe plates to check toe and a level for camber... just make sure you're parked on a level surface!

                  thats a sweet toe plate! Did you engrave that yourself?

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                  • #24
                    I need to wrap my brain around this so I can camber the rear.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                      Yeah, but make sure you know what is the vehicle centerline if the stub axle at the desired ride height. Like Dragonhealer said, as the beam rotates, the alignment changes. You must set the camber and toe for the desired beam angle. It's hard to get it right with 1 try. I've dedicated hundreds of hours to dialing in the rear on my cars.
                      These cars are unstable with toe out in the rear (probably why Rosie is "darty" unloaded). It is important to understand that negative camber turns into toe out as the beam droops. As the beam compresses the negative camber turns into toe in. It's best to set the car up with a hair of toe in at the desired ride height.
                      What would you consider a hair of toe-in, if you don't mind me asking? Like 1 degree?
                      Current cars:

                      1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
                      1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
                      2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
                      2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.

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                      • #26
                        More like 1/32-1/16" total. A full degree would be way too much.
                        Trees aren't kind to me...

                        currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                        94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
                          thats a sweet toe plate! Did you engrave that yourself?
                          Yea i did.
                          I made the plate out of .100" al sheet metal.
                          ~Nate

                          the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                          Current cars:
                          91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                          1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                          2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                          FOTY 2008 winner!

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                          • #28
                            I'm jealous of those Festiva engraved plates. That's sweet.
                            Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                            Comment

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