Has anyone re-made suspension components by CNC billet or jig and steel plate shaped and welded? For the purpose of reducing weight? I've seen Baja trucks with some beautiful knuckles and control arms and such that look REALLY easy to make, so that got me thinking maybe we could have lighter knuckles? And there was something in a thread a while back about using a press to bend the ball joint on the LCA forward, which would give more caster, so I thought maybe BUILD some that would allow you to adjust caster? I'd like to get some feedback while the creativity is still flowing
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Fabricating Custom Suspension?
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Fabricating Custom Suspension?
A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles
Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles
FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
Instagram: jaredbear82 -
If you want more caster, mill the tangs on the sway bar. Or build plates to push the horizontal bushings forward. Be warned that doing so will counter act any movement of the engine forward to increase traction/hook.
And I doubt that you can get the factory knuckle much lighter than it is now... It weighs nothing as is.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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The way to save weight would be with an aluminum (7075 t6) 1 piece strut/knuckle with non threaded body. The shock absorber will be a 40mm nitride coated titanium tube with air spring and air dampening. The wheel bearings will be Ceramic, as will the caliper pistons. The wheel hub will be titanium and will have a center lock wheel mounting system. The brakes will be a 7075 hat with titanium hardware and a carbon fiber disk. The wheels will be forged magnesium. I'm working on the DIY for this upgrade.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostThe way to save weight would be with an aluminum (7075 t6) 1 piece strut/knuckle with non threaded body. The shock absorber will be a 40mm nitride coated titanium tube with air spring and air dampening. The wheel bearings will be Ceramic, as will the caliper pistons. The wheel hub will be titanium and will have a center lock wheel mounting system. The brakes will be a 7075 hat with titanium hardware and a carbon fiber disk. The wheels will be forged magnesium. I'm working on the DIY for this upgrade.1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD
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Originally posted by mikemounlio View PostWELL THAT SOUNDS AMAZING AND SUPER EXPENSIVE!!! What would be the estimated damage for all that?Rick
1993 Ford Festiva
1986 AMC Eagle Wagon 4.2L/4.0L head, AW4,NP242, Chrysler 8.25" rear. SOLD
1981 AMC Eagle Wagon-As Seen on TV Lost In Transmission
2000 Ford E350
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Originally posted by mikemounlio View PostWELL THAT SOUNDS AMAZING AND SUPER EXPENSIVE!!! What would be the estimated damage for all that?
Centerlock ti hubs with custom inner spline pattern: $3300.00 for the pair.
I'd have to get a quote from Cliferton on the shock/knuckle combo, but my rough guess would be around $10,000-15,000 for the set after R&D and setup.
Wheels will be the easiest part. They run between $1000 (used) to $5000 a wheel for forged magnesium centerlock wheels in a 13x7 size.
So, roughly $45,000 installed. Well worth the 100lb weight saving. (That's only $450/lb, which is very reasonable in the world of ultra high performance.)
If you think this is ridiculous, think things over for a minute. The Festiva can easily compete with half a million dollar exotic supercars with 800.00 in suspension parts, 200.00 in brake parts, 1500.00 engine swap and 800.00 worth of track tires. The owner of the quarter of a million dollar F430 Scuderia (the one you lapped on the race track) will pay $40,000 a year for his service and track day rubber.Last edited by Advancedynamix; 03-01-2017, 11:19 AM.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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I'm in!!!
Now to convince the woman and the bank that it's a good investment... Hmmm.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostBrake rotors, hats, calipers and pads: $15,000.00 (and that low price is for both sides) if you use readily available parts.
Centerlock ti hubs with custom inner spline pattern: $3300.00 for the pair.
I'd have to get a quote from Cliferton on the shock/knuckle combo, but my rough guess would be around $10,000-15,000 for the set after R&D and setup.
Wheels will be the easiest part. They run between $1000 (used) to $5000 a wheel for forged magnesium centerlock wheels in a 13x7 size.
So, roughly $45,000 installed. Well worth the 100lb weight saving. (That's only $450/lb, which is very reasonable in the world of ultra high performance.)
If you think this is ridiculous, think things over for a minute. The Festiva can easily compete with half a million dollar exotic supercars with 800.00 in suspension parts, 200.00 in brake parts, 1500.00 engine swap and 800.00 worth of track tires. The owner of the quarter of a million dollar F430 Scuderia (the one you lapped on the race track) will pay $40,000 a year for his service and track day rubber.1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD
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Aluminum is non ferrous though. How would an electromagnet apply resistance?
Typical electromagnetic braking systems are heavier than the stock brakes on a Festiva.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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I don't know how it work but it dose that's how roller costers break.
If you used steel wouldn't they just lock? With this to increase breaking just ramp up the power. Should just be a weekend project with and arduino for the controlerror.Last edited by william; 03-01-2017, 02:31 PM.
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Huh. I'll be. Well that gives me more reasons to clutter up my workbench. LolDriving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostAluminum is non ferrous though. How would an electromagnet apply resistance?
Typical electromagnetic braking systems are heavier than the stock brakes on a Festiva.
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