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Rear upper/lower strut tower bars

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  • Rear upper/lower strut tower bars

    Made them couple days ago thought i would show some pictures





    ---------------------------------------------------
    The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
    ---------------------------------------------------
    BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!



  • #2
    Is the lower one attached to the bottom of the struts?
    Ian
    Calgary AB, Canada
    93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
    59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite

    "It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)

    Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog

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    • #3
      I would weld brackets to the frame instead of attaching the bar to the shocks on top. You want those to be able to wiggle a little, you don't want the frame twisting.

      Also, I hope that lower bar isn't attached to the struts. That would act as a massive rear sway bar, making the rear end way too loose. The rear is pretty strong laterally, if you're looking for more anti-sway try boxing off a couple inches on the torsion beam.
      OX SMASH!!

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      • #4
        I plan on using 2in aluminum angle for the rear... all the merkur guys have been doing this for years and its quite simple.

        Don

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        • #5
          Yes the bottom is attached to the struts on the bottom..and i made my other one off of the rally festiva off of the picture gallery....it does wiggle a little bit. You not suppose to over tighten the top strut nuts causing the bushing to sqeeze out over that metal collar.
          ---------------------------------------------------
          The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
          ---------------------------------------------------
          BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!


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          • #6
            Besides my plan is to cut the floor and weld the top bar to the bottom bar....
            ---------------------------------------------------
            The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
            ---------------------------------------------------
            BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!


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            • #7
              How does it handle at the limit? Does the backend feel too tight? Does it cause the car to be unsettled over slight bumps in a corner? Please elaborate. I am going to box off the Aspire beam w/1/8" plate but would like some other options/opinions as well. -Kyle
              Cosmic Blue 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 - Mostly Stock...

              White 1990 Ford Festiva - B6 SOHC powered 50 shot = 14.5 @ 94 mph Gone but not forgotten

              Proud member of Chicken Mechanix Racing

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              • #8
                Originally posted by festivaWES
                Besides my plan is to cut the floor and weld the top bar to the bottom bar....
                i hate to burst your bubble, but if you weld the top to the bottom, you'll either 1) break the welds, or 2) bust something on your chassis when you go over any hard bump or dip.

                what i'm saying is, if you weld top to bottom, you'll loose any and all rear suspension travel; like having a solid axel welded straight to the frame, and that's not a good thing.
                Trees aren't kind to me...

                currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                • #9
                  Yeah.....i know. And the welds won't bust
                  ---------------------------------------------------
                  The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
                  ---------------------------------------------------
                  BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!


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                  • #10
                    If you want to get rid of any suspension movement, just replace your shocks/springs with solid bars.

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                    • #11
                      You could always fill your tires with concrete, too. That'll really stiffen things up! :twisted:

                      Karl
                      '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                      '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                      '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                      '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                      '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by festivaWES
                        Yeah.....i know. And the welds won't bust
                        so then why exactly are you doing that? i mean, i can't understand as to why you'd wnat to loose all rear suspension movement.

                        not starting a flame, i'm just curious...
                        Trees aren't kind to me...

                        currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                        94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                        • #13
                          Was just pondering with the idea.....the strut bars tighened everything else up so nice that i don't think I'll want to solid bar the rear.
                          ---------------------------------------------------
                          The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
                          ---------------------------------------------------
                          BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!


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