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My first engine swap build thread

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  • freshtiva
    replied
    That is good info, Ill give it a try. Thanks !

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  • Levitan
    replied
    Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
    bleading brakes is easy, all you need is some fish tube, an empty oil bottle, and about 2.5 x the system volume of fluid. start with the right rear and crack open the bleeder. attach the tube and run it up over the top of the drum and then down into the empty bottle. support the bottle so it doesn't tip over and secure the tube so it doesn't move from it's looped virtical position. now fill the resivoir and place the cap on top, but don't lock it down, keep it loose. ge inside and give the peddal a few good pushes (slow down and fast up) you should eventually feel the fluid pushing out into the bottle and as the bottle fills, it creates an air trap for any bubbles. the first is the longest and hardest to do. keep pumping untill you see new fluid and no bubbles (it will continue to gravity bleed even when you're not pumping). do the same for the left rear, right front and left front in that order. always remember to keep the resivoir FULL.
    I have GOT to remember this!!! Nice education Arty!

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    bleading brakes is easy, all you need is some fish tube, an empty oil bottle, and about 2.5 x the system volume of fluid. start with the right rear and crack open the bleeder. attach the tube and run it up over the top of the drum and then down into the empty bottle. support the bottle so it doesn't tip over and secure the tube so it doesn't move from it's looped virtical position. now fill the resivoir and place the cap on top, but don't lock it down, keep it loose. ge inside and give the peddal a few good pushes (slow down and fast up) you should eventually feel the fluid pushing out into the bottle and as the bottle fills, it creates an air trap for any bubbles. the first is the longest and hardest to do. keep pumping untill you see new fluid and no bubbles (it will continue to gravity bleed even when you're not pumping). do the same for the left rear, right front and left front in that order. always remember to keep the resivoir FULL.

    Leave a comment:


  • festivaWES
    replied
    ^^ That doesn't make sense to me?? A b6-sohc downpipe is the same as a BP?? And also for a protege after 95?? I'd try to find one at a junkyard.

    BTW your going to have to lower that festiva......and you call that a hazardous place for the jack?? Ha if you guys only knew what i worked under sometimes...
    Last edited by festivaWES; 04-21-2009, 10:00 PM.

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  • freshtiva
    replied
    Anyone know anything about this down pipe ? Is this what I need since I cant find a 1990 + 323 down pipe or b6 header.

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  • freshtiva
    replied
    OK as soon as I figure out how to bleed my brake by myself the aspire brake swap is done. The rear torsoin beam was the biggest pain to date. Probably a lot easier with some help. Took over an hour to get the right side lower strut bolt to thread, just couldnt get it lined up for some reason. Anyway its getting closer.


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  • FB71
    replied
    Originally posted by Safety Guy View Post
    Did I miss something? What rear shocks are those? They ain't Festiva/Aspire.

    I missed something, didn't I?

    Karl
    they look ok to me, Karl... ?

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  • freshtiva
    replied
    They are Monroe Sensatrack but they are for a festiva. At least I hope they are after all the trouble I went to this morning putting them on. What ? dont they look right ?

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  • Safety Guy
    replied
    Did I miss something? What rear shocks are those? They ain't Festiva/Aspire.

    I missed something, didn't I?

    Karl

    Leave a comment:


  • sasquatch
    replied
    Originally posted by freshtiva View Post
    Ha Ha, I was waiting for someone to flame me for that. I removed the old torsion beam and put the new one back in like that. It hasnt budged yet. If the car falls on me Ill get out. I dont get to far under it to start with.
    "It hasnt budged yet"... YET!!! all it takes is one bad movement and...

    " dont get to far under it to start with"... whats the part of your body your sticking under there? your head... i bet it dosnt feel good with a car on top of it... lol...

    i would be a bit more careful. atleast put on a helmet lol jk.... i put them on the sub frames on my car, then they are out of the way too

    Leave a comment:


  • freshtiva
    replied
    Ha Ha, I was waiting for someone to flame me for that. I removed the old torsion beam and put the new one back in like that. It hasnt budged yet. If the car falls on me Ill get out. I dont get to far under it to start with.

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  • sasquatch
    replied
    i dont think you can put them in wrong but i do know that jack stand is NOT safe.... one good torque of a wrench the wrong way and the car comes down on you.... not cool

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  • freshtiva
    replied
    Got the torsion beam in this morning and was about to torque it down when a thought occurred to me. This may be a stupid question but consider the source, me. I was thinking of the "coil " springs and wondered if there is a right and left spring and if it was possible to put a spring in upside down. Do the coils need to compress in a particular direction or does the coil winding direction make any difference ?


    Leave a comment:


  • freshtiva
    replied
    Originally posted by carbonvmax View Post
    man.... I'd love to visit the festiva ranch but them I'm afraid I'd never want to leave! :lol:
    Well just come and stay. Bring the BP festy with you.

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  • JoDan
    replied
    Originally posted by freshtiva View Post
    Oh yeah I found one festiva @ the J/Y, it had new halfshafts, control arms, and sway bar bushings. It was in good shape really. 214,000 88 four speed with factory air. I wanted to bring it home with me. I need to go get that stuff off of it at least..
    If you do I might be interested in those control arms

    Leave a comment:

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